Friday, November 16, 2007

Notas sobre a confecção de uma jaqueta – Project notes on a jacket

Queridas amigas e amigos, a vida por aqui não tem sido fácil… Não tenho tido muito tempo para dedicar aos meus hobbies nem para visitar todos os blogs que gosto de ler (peço desculpa por isso). O que vos vou mostrar hoje, relacionado com o meu actual projecto de costura já aconteceu há uns dias e desde aí o progresso tem sido muito lento. Apesar da falta de tempo, sempre que posso gosto de ir mostrando o que vou fazendo e quem consulta a minha lista de projectos actualizada sabe que já estou de volta de um novo projecto: a jaqueta 106 da Burda de Setembro.
Dear friends, life hasn't been easy around here… I haven't been able to find time for my hobbies and for visiting all the blogs I like to read (I'm sorry for that). What I'm showing you today happened some time ago and since then my progress has been really slow. In spite of the lack of time I've made an effort to show you what I have done so far and those of you who consulted my updated list of future projects lately know that I'm currently working on a new sewing project: the jacket 106 from the September BWOF issue.

A próxima foto mostra o processo de marcar com alinhavos e colocação da entretela numa das frentes do casaquinho:
Next picture shows the process of thread tracing together with the interfacing placement on one of the jacket's fronts:
Aqui podem ver o resultado depois de colar a entretela a ferro e o molde já cortado para poder depois cortar o forro (a largura da vista foi descontada da frente para obter o molde para o forro):
Here you can see the final result after fusing the interfacing and the front pattern already set for cutting the lining (the facing width has been removed from the front to obtain the front pattern for cutting the lining):
Para as costas procede-se da mesma forma, descontando a largura da vista do decote.
It's the same for the back pattern; the neck facing width is cut off too.

Notem que as bainhas estão entreteladas com entretela cortada em viés (para ser mais fácil dar às tiras a forma ligeiramente arredondada da bainha), as vistas e o local da abertura do bolso também levam entretela. Nas costas e nas mangas as bainhas levam entretela da mesma forma; a tira de entretela ultrapassa a linha da bainha em 1cm; assim a bainha fica mais bem definida quando for assente a ferro para dentro e cosida. Neste caso este tecido é bastante grosso, por isso não há perigo dos pontos que cosem a bainha se notarem. Se não fosse assim a entretela que reforça a bainha podia ser estendida além da linha da bainha por mais do que 1cm, para que os pontos que seguram a bainha apanharem a entretela e não o tecido.
Note how the hem allowances are interfaced with bias cut interfacing (so the interfacing band can be shaped into the slightly rounded hem allowance), the facings are interfaced and also the pocket opening area is reinforced. The back and sleeve hem allowances are also reinforced the same way. The interfacing extends over the hem line for about 2/5 inch in this case; this should be done to obtain a professional looking and well defined hem line. In this case I'm using a thick and spongy fabric and the hem stitching won't show on the right side; if this isn't the case, the interfacing should extend a little more, enough for the stitches to catch the interfacing and not the fashion fabric.

Para a próxima vou mostrar-vos os botões que comprei para a jaqueta Phildar que estou a tricotar! Só falta uma manga e a gola para terminar!
Next time I will show you the buttons for the Phildar jacket that I'm currently knitting! I still have one sleeve and the collar to go!

19 comments:

cidell said...

Yikes Tany. I'm seeing the time you posted. I'm sorry 'life' is getting in the way. That purple looks gorgeous and I'm excited to see how your project turns out. I was underwhelmed by the line drawing, but you always make things look great.

Lori said...

I can't wait to see your version of this pattern. I love the purple fabric, sorry life is so busy but thanks for posting. I love your posts.

Adrienne said...

Glad you found some time to post! Take care of yourself :-)

Vicki said...

Thanks for posting. Just love seeing what you are doing. I really like that jacket and may make it next year for our winter.

macati said...

shame on me... deixei o meu tricô completamente de lado... a cor da jaqueta é linda! desejo-te tempinho extra!
:)

Isabelle said...

My dear friend, it is so interesting and helpful to see how you prepare and especially interface the jacket pieces. This is going to be very helpful for my Simplicity jacket! :)
You are so generous to be taking the time to write up this post despite your terrible schedule. The thought that you snatched some time from work to blog for our pleasure instead of sew for yours, gives me the fuzzies!

Take good care, my dear Tany. I am thinking of you! Thank you so much for your email - I haven't even had the time to read it yet but I can't wait!
Sending lots of hugs and smiles from a sunny, but freezing Paris. They are announcing some snow here! In mid-November!
I hope you can relax a bit this weekend. ((((Tany))))

Tina said...

só passei para te desejar um optimo fim de semana e dizer que é sempre uma "delicia" passar por aqui!!

Berry said...

So you're human too. Just kidding, I'm just amazed at all the things you can achieve in so little time. I wish life gets quieter (so I get to read more and more of your blog;o). Take good care. Berry (a otra)

toya said...

I hope you get some needed rest Tany

Katrin said...

Hello Tany,
this is going to be a very cute jacket. Obviously the color purple has catched you :-).
Don´t forget to think fo yourself, take care.

Best regards,
Katrin

paco peralta said...

Tany.- Ten en cuenta que el libro de 720 páginas que me comentas en mi blog, es únicamente el de la historia del siglo XX. La edición consta de dos libros, uno que abarca el siglo XVIII y XIX de 320 páginas (tiene en la portada una fotografia de la cintura de un vestido color salmón) y otro que pertenece al siglo XX de 720 páginas (fotografia de la portada : vestido de Paco Rabanne). Siento no haberte comentado todo ésto antes, pero no pensaba que ibas a ser tan "rápida" en la compra. Cualquier cosa me consultas. A tu disposición. Saludos y buen fin de semana. Paco.

paco peralta said...

Tany.- Bueno, estás en lo cierto, este es el libro, o sea, los dos libros. Verás como te gusta. Ah. y suerte en tu nuevo proyecto con la chaqueta Burda. Yo estuve tentado de hacerla para una clienta, pero al final hice el modelo 111 del Burda 9/05 que es muy parecida, pero con la manga semi-raglán. Seguro que te queda estupenda. Un abrazo. Paco.

Kelroc said...

Your are one of my favorite posts. I learn so much from the detailed posts. We all have to take life one day at a time because it can be unpredictable. I pray that thing will settle down. Can't wait to see the finished jacket.

rosa said...

Oiii Tany
precisas descansar um pouco,ñ te preocupes que te vamos visitando com o mesmo carinho.es sempre tao perfeita nas tuas postagens,o blog tambem cansa muito,e tu que vais postando por fases,cansas mais.
cuidate amiga.
um bom fim de semana
abraço

Sheila said...

Thanks for the interfacing info... and take care of yourself.

Tini said...

Tany, a good advice: Take care of yourself before you take care of us. Try to relax from time to time. Just time for yourself and do whatever pleases you. If that contains blogging great, if not also great :) I mean if you don't have sewing content I would just love to see a pic of the great cupboard you are standing in front of ;)
No kidding, I was in hospital twice with an acute hearing loss, so I had to learn it the hard way to relax! For me f.e. knitting is a great way of relaxing because you keep doing the same thing over and over again sometimes without thinking.

Anonymous said...

Tany,

I love your blog as your are truly talented.

I was wondering how you cut the seam allowances? Do you mark them or do you use a rotary cutter with a bar on it to mark the seam allowance as you cut? Or do you have your own inventive way? Thank you.

Tany said...

Isabelle Ma chère amie, I was thinking of you when I wrote this article! I remember our conversation in Paris when I mentioned the way I usually interface the hem allowances! Of course this procedure depends on the fabric; on a lighter fabric I would interface the entire front (and the facings, of course!) Gros bisous!

Paco: Gracias por todo!

Kelroc: Thank you for your kind words and support; things are a little better now that I was able to spend a few hours sewing! Welcome to Couture et Tricot!

Rosa: Obrigada, amiga! As coisas estão um pouco melhores agora... Sabes que sou programadora e a minha profissão desgasta muito a nível mental, daí o meu cansaço às vezes... Agora estou melhor porque pude passar algum tempo no fim-de-semana a costurar e a tricotar! Já tinha saudades disso!

Tini: You're so right... And I listen to you. Sometimes I really forget about myself. Last week I had a rough time at work; I do software programmimg and sometimes my job it's so demanding that I stop thinking about myself and spending time on my hobbies, which help on stress management. Thank you so much for your supportive words!

Anonymous: Thank you! When I'm using BWOF's or Patrones patterns (these patterns don't include the SAs), I shalk mark the SAs and then I use scissors or the rotary cutter (depending on the fabric). During my short experience with Vogue patterns I followed the industrial method (skipped most of the thread tracing because when the SAs are included the thread tracing can't be done on the stitching lines, except on darts, pleats and other similar markings).

Mamã Martinho said...

Passo um tempinho sem aqui vir e depara-me com uma quantidade neorme de post's!
Adorei a cor desta jaqueta, bem na moda!

Bjs

Mónica