Saturday, July 7, 2007

Fecho com carcela (parte 1) – Fly front zipper (Part 1)

Olá Amigas! Prosseguindo a confecção dos calções, chegou a altura de costurar o fecho com carcela; como tudo na costura, há várias maneiras de se costurar um fecho deste tipo; na minha colecção de livros de costura encontro vários métodos, todos com o mesmo fim.
Hi sewing Friends! Proceeding with the making of the city shorts, it's time to sew the fly front zipper; like most things in sewing, there are many different methods for sewing a fly front zipper; I own many books and every one of them teaches a slightly different approach.

O método que vou aplicar e tentar explicar é o método da Burda; lembro-me da primeira vez que o pus em prática, devia ter uns 12 anos: fiz uns calções brancos com um tecido de lençol que a minha mãe tinha guardado e a carcela ficou um bocado torta; além disso não tinha trespasse interior (uma parte em tecido que cobre os dentes do fecho por dentro). Desde aí continuei a usar este método e a aperfeiçoar a técnica cada vez que a aplicava; os passos que sigo são semelhantes aos explicados nas instruções da Burda, exceptuando alguns pequenos detalhes.
The method I'm using is based on the BWOF method and I will try to explain you how I do it. I remember the first time I used this method (following BWOF's instructions): I was about 12 and I made a pair of white shorts from a bed sheet piece of fabric that my mother had stored away in the house. I didn't sew a fly facing add-on and the front topstitching wasn't that straight; also the zipper was gapping on the bottom but it didn't matter that much to me at the time because I wore those shorts for many years! Since then I practised a lot and my results become better. My way of doing the fly zipper insertion is based on the BWOF instructions but with a slight twist. That has to do with my personal preference and experience only.

Para começar, as costuras das pernas devem estar terminadas (ver último post sobre os calções aqui). As frentes destas calças, incluindo os trespasses da carcela, estão forradas com a organza de seda, por isso não preciso de entretelar os trespasses. Os valores de costura dos trespasses e da costura do gancho estão chuleados (no caso dos valores de costura do gancho chuleei com ponto de ziguezague e nos trespasses usei a corta-e-cose).
Before I start, the legs must be ready (darts, pockets, side seams) – see my last post on the city shorts here. In this case the fronts are underlined with silk organza so there is no need to interface the fly extension but you should do this otherwise. The fly extension SAs are serged and the other raw edges (curved) are zigzagged.

Tendo uma perna virada do avesso e outra virada do direito, enfio esta última por dentro da perna que está do avesso, alinhando a costura do gancho da frente (por baixo do fecho), direito contra direito e cosendo esta costura, desde o meio das pernas até o sinal de abertura do fecho (vejam as marcas vermelhas):
Starting with one of the legs on the wrong side I put the other leg inside this one, pinning the front crotch curve (right sides together) from the zipper opening mark to the inner leg crotch point; I machine stitch this seam (see the red markings in the picture), extending it a little furter to the inner leg crotch point:

O fecho das calças de senhora fecha da direita para a esquerda. A beira do lado direito (trespasse) é virada para dentro pela linha do meio (é o lado que tem o desenho da carcela alinhavado) e o outro lado também é virado para dentro mas deve ter um pequeno trespasse, ou seja a dobra é feita a ½ a ¾ de cm da linha do meio; é preciso golpear o valor de costura do gancho na parte esquerda junto ao trespasse para que a costura do gancho possa ser assente com os valores de costura abertos. Alinhavar as dobras e assentá-las a ferro:
On women's trousers the zipper opening laps from right to the left; the fly extension on the right should fold to the inside by the center line (the right side is the one with the basting lines for the topstitching); the left side is a little extended so it folds about 1/4 inches away from the center line; baste and press, clipping the left side crouch curve SA next to the fly extension:

O tamanho de fecho indicado para estas calças é de 10cm e o tamanho mais pequeno que encontrei à venda é de 12, por isso vou ter de encurtar o fecho:
The pattern calls for a 4 inch zipper but all I could find was a 4 ½, so I must shorten the zipper:
Para isso marco 10cm no seu comprimento e faço um ponto de ziguezague com comprimento 0 e largura suficiente para englobar os dentes do fecho nessa marca; depois só tenho que cortar o fecho 1,5cm abaixo desta marca com a tesoura de ziguezague. Na figura seguinte podem ver o fecho aplicado nas calças que fiz anteriormente; podem ver que o fecho não vai até cima e que, embora estas calças não tenham cós mas sim uma vista por dentro, o fecho termina na linha da vista:
For shortening the zipper I set the SM for a zero length zigzag stitch, wide enough to embrace the zipper teeth, and I zigzag the zipper at the correct length; then I use my pinking shears to cut the zipper ½ an inch from this mark. In the next picture you can see the zipper on my previously made trousers; these trousers have no waist band but instead have waist facings; see how the zipper ends at the facing line:
(continua…)
(to be continued…)

7 comments:

Adrienne said...

Perfect!!! Love your tutorials Tany.

Oficina das Linhas said...

Olá Tany,
Vejo que a conclusão do fato vai a a todo o vapor. A blusa está muito bonito com todos os pormenores das costuras decorativas, e os calções quase prontos. Já falta pouco...

Beijinhos,
Carmen

Vicki W said...

Your posts are just amazing - such detailed and clear instructions and great photos. I hope you're going to publish this all in a book some day!

dawn said...

This is a fantastic tutorial, the pictures are so clear. How do you get the arrows on there???

I can't believe you made a fly zipper at 12! I'm encouraged. I have a young student, she just turned 10 and she's very talented with sewing. She is in the middle of her first pants, simple yoked capris with a side zipper. I've been debating with myself for days whether I should follow the directions and have her do a lapped zipper (not finished properly on top, per the instructions), show her how to do it correctly with the facing for clean finish, or completely ignore the directions and have her do an invisible. Hmmmm.....

toya said...

Just yesterday my mom and I was talking about linings and sewing pants, I was telling her about your blog, she learnt sewing "the hard way" when I showed her the pattern of the dress I wanted her to make, she was so excited,, she thought she was going to have to "draft" her own pattern out, could you believe it?
Anyway, great tutorial girl, I know I will reference this post back at a later time

Tany said...

Dawn: I edit the pictures using the windows Paint program! It's quite easy!

Your young student is very lucky to have you! Why don't you show her several zipper insertions and ask her which she prefers for her garment? Learning to make the right decisions/choices is part of the learning process!

Anna said...

Tany - I have some fabric I want to make into a jean skirt this fall. It'll be my first attempt at a fly front zipper, and I will definitely consult your tutorial when I make it. Thanks for sharing your method and photos!