"Parfait Dandy" set #2: The classic princess cut white shirt - Camisa branca clássica com recortes princesa

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EN Summary: I started with the white shirt because my sewing machine was already threaded with white thread; keep reading the full article on tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com.

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PT Sumário: Comecei pela camisa branca porque a minha máquina de costura já estava enfiada com linha branca. Continuem a ler o artigo completo em tanysewsandknkits.blogspot.com.


EN: We can never own too many white shirts, don't you guys agree? This particular model enchants with the princess cut on the front and the waist-shaping vertical darts on the back, following the shape of the feminine body, allied to more masculine classic details like the classic shirt collar with stand and the two-piece sleeves with buttoned cuffs. It's Burdastyle 09/2006 model 106, btw.

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PT: Não é possível chegarmos a ter demasiadas camisas brancas, não acham? Este modelo em particular encanta por se adaptar ao corpo feminino por meio de cortes princesa na frente e pinças verticais nas costas, ao mesmo tempo que mantém algumas características clássicas da camisa masculina como a gola camiseira com pé e as mangas de duas folhas terminadas com punhos abotoados. Só para relembrar, o molde é da revista Burdastyle 09/2006, modelo 106.

burdastyle.com
EN: I cut size 40 without any alteration to the pattern, aiming to achieve an end result as close to the original displayed model as possible.

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PT: Cortei o tamanho 40 sem qualquer alteração ou ajuste no molde, para obter uma peça bastante parecida com o modelo original na revista.
burdastyle.com
EN: Regarding the magazine instructions, I skimmed through them but, as usual, altered the order of construction and some of the methods following a more efficient approach to the construction, similar to what is done in the industry. After cutting, marking and interfacing all the necessary pieces, I divided them into independent units: body, collar and sleeves. I pre-pressed the inner collar stand, folding in the neckline seam allowance a scant less than the 3/8" seam allowance width that I used for all the pieces, and did the same on the cuffs and front plackets (folding them in half lengthwise first and then turning in the inner seam allowance). I started by sewing the back darts and princess seams, then the side seams, the shirt's hem, and finally shoulder seams; I attached the plackets and also sewn and top-stitched the shoulder tabs which were put aside for making the buttonholes before attaching them to the shoulders. Then I moved on to the collar, which was attached to the bodice as soon as it was completed.

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PT: No que diz respeito às instruções, li-as em diagonal alterando a ordem dos processos para se adaptar a uma forma mais rápida e eficiente de costurar, semelhante à usada na indústria. Depois de cortar, marcar e entretelar as peças necessárias, dividi-as em três grupos: corpo, mangas e colarinho. O pé interior do colarinho foi preparado vincando para dentro a margem de costura de junção com o decote (vicada a um pouco menos do 1cm que usei para todas as margens). Fiz o mesmo na orla interior dos punhos e carcelas frontais, primeiro dobrando-as ao meio no sentido do comprimento e depois virando a margem interior 8,5mm para dentro. Comecei por fechar as pinças atrás e as costuras princesa na fente, e em seguida as costuras dos lados e ombros; depois fiz a bainha da camisa. A seguir apliquei as carcelas e também confecionei as presilhas dos ombros, que só serão aplicadas a estes depois de casear. Passei então para o colarinho (que é cosido e pespontado antes de o coser ao pé da gola). O colarinho depois de pronto é cosido ao decote da camisa.

https://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com
EN: The sleeves were the last unit to complete; I first stitched the back seam leaving a cuff slit (which was top-stitched), then I eased the sleeve caps (using two parallel rows of long loose stitches) and finally closed the inner sleeve seam. Next the cuffs were sewn to the sleeves. At this stage, before joining the sleeves with the bodice/collar, I embroidered the buttonholes on the cuffs, shoulder tabs, collar stand and front placket.

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PT: As mangas são a última parte a confecionar: primeiro cosi a costura de trás, deixando aberta a abertura do punho, que deve ser pespontada; depois preparei as cabeças das mangas com os pontos de embeber; a seguir cosi a costura de baixo da manga, e por último os punhos. Antes de coser as mangas na camisa, bordei todas as casas de botão (punhos, pé da gola, carcela e presilhas dos ombros).
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https://tanysewsanknits.blogspot.com
EN: As on the original model, only the collar edge, the shoulder tabs and the sleeve cuff slits were top-stitched. The top-stitching uses a slightly longer stitch (3mm approximately) when compared with the stitch length used to join all the pieces together (2.5mm).

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PT: Tal como no modelo original, só o colarinho, as presilhas e as aberturas das mangas foram pespontadas. Este pesponto é um pouco mais longo do que o comprimento do ponto que uso para unira todas as partes (3mm para o pesponto, 2.5mm para as costuras de junção).
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https://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com
EN: The inside finishing is very clean on the collar and placket, thanks to the pre-pressing of the inner seam allowances; after stitching the outer edge, all there is left to do is to baste everything in place and then stitch in the ditch along the placket/collar joining seam, from the outside, catching the inner edge in this seam.

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PT: O acabamento interior é bastante limpo, tanto no colarinho como na carcela, graças ao assentar a ferro prévio das margens para dentro; depois de coser o colarinho/carcelas na camisa pelo exterior, a margem interior é alinhavada no lugar e basta fazer um pesponto por fora sobre a primeira costura para fechar e fixar tudo no devido lugar.
https://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com
EN: All the other seams were finished with the serger/overlocker. The shirt turned out perfect, well fitted and ideal for wearing under a classic vest. It's also very comfortable against the body  thanks to the softness of the shirting fabric used (there's more about the fabric in my previous post introducing the "Parfait Dandy" set and the fabrics/materials used).

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PT: Todas as restantes costuras foram acabadas com a corta-e-cose no interior. A camisa ficou muito bem, assentando na perfeição. É um peça muito confortável de usar graças à maciez do tecido para camisas que usei (podem saber mais sobre este conjunto e os tecidos que escolhi no meu artigo anterior).
https://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com
EN: That's all for today, and now I am getting ready to cut the houndstooth pants with turn-ups. Happy Sewing to all!

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PT: E por hoje é tudo, enquanto me preparo para cortar as calças pata-de-galo com virolas. Desejos de boas costuras a todos!
 

4 comments:

Colo Heather said...

This is an interesting project with all the pieces, lovely shirt! Do you like top stitching? Another blogger I follow doesn't like the look of it. Thanks.

Tany said...

Thanks! Regarding top-stitching, I don't mind incorporating it into some of my projects. To look good it has to be well made. The stitch should be well balanced and regular (it should be longer too) and the distance to the edge should be constant. It really helps using the compensated presser feet on my industrial sewing machine :)

Terri said...

Such a beautifully sewn classic piece! I agree that one can never have too many white tops! They are so versatile. You have inspired me to take a second look at some of my Burda magazines. I cut out the skirt from Paco Peralto's Vogue 1567 last night. Your order of sewing is how I use to sew but I've forgotten to do that after taking a few years off. It does make so much more sense.

Tany said...

Hi Terri, thanks for your lovely comment! The skirt from Vogue 1567 is one of my favorites from Paco; it's so elegant and unique! I'm sure you'll love it!