2011#20 – Tomato red sailor pants – Calças à marinheiro vermelho-tomate

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Já andava a querer umas calças deste género há bastante tempo e finalmente encontrei a combinação modelo-tecido-cor que correspondia à minha visão.

Para me verem a usar as calças, cliquem aqui.

Modelo original: Revista Patrones nº289, modelo 33 – Calças estilo marinheiro largas com cintura subida, painel frontal abotoado, tira de atar atrás, bolsos metidos nas costuras e bainhas pespontadas; na minha interpretação também pespontei o cós alto da mesma maneira que as bainhas, e acrescentei painéis laterais (por necessidade e não por opção).


Tecido usado: Crepe sintético.

Tamanho cortado: Tamanho 42 (entre o 40 e 44 da revista) (equivalente ao 38 da Burda)

Modificações: Este modelo não me correu bem de início. Demasiado confiante na tabela de medidas e em experiências anteriores com calças Patrones, não me ocorreu medir o molde. A verdade é que já tinha as calças praticamente terminadas quando as provei e cheguei à triste conclusão que não as conseguia apertar. A primeira coisa que me passou pela cabeça foi por as calças de lado, talvez comprar umas numa loja (já tinha visto umas semelhantes à venda). Depois pensei em faze-las de novo, alargando o molde. Fui tentar arranjar tecido igual, mas já tinha esgotado… Finalmente resolvi desmanchar as calças de lado e coser umas tiras do pouco tecido que tinha sobrado (tive de cortar as tiras ao longo da largura do tecido, pois tinha sobrado pouco). É claro que não foi uma tarefa simples: tive que descoser os pespontos do cós, os bolsos, e as costuras laterais, mas no final consegui fazer com que as calças resultassem e servissem. As tiras apenas levaram entretela na parte superior, com uma largura do dobro da vista do cós, de forma a serem cosidas às costuras laterais das calças e das vistas numa só costura. Os bolsos tiveram de ser quase completamente refeitos. Deu-me muito trabalho, mas acho que valeu a pena, e gosto mais das linhas destas calças do que das que vi na loja.

Detalhes:

Frente e costas:


Os bolsos metidos nas costuras:

Os botões metálicos estilo marinheiro:

O acabamento por dentro:

As aberturas de abotoar são talvez a parte mais desafiante deste projecto. O método fez-me lembrar a construção de uma abertura de manga avivada, só que aqui o vivo é bem maior. O molde tem uma espécie de pinça onde ficará a abertura. Reforcei com um pesponto à máquina antes de cortar a abertura e reforcei com um quadrado de entretela o seu vértice; no restante segui a metodologia explicada nas instruções. Não tive tempo de documentar o processo e não aconselho este modelo a principiantes.

As bainhas têm cerca de 7cm e foram pespontadas, como no modelo original:

A etiqueta, no lado de avesso das costas:

Conclusão: Um modelo nada fácil, que me fez dar voltas à cabeça e quase desistir quando descobri que o tamanho não estava correcto… No entanto com alguma perseverança ultrapassei esse obstáculo e fiquei muito satisfeita com o resultado. Com a minha falta de tempo demorei quase três semanas a ter estas calças prontas,… As coisas devem melhorar em termos de tempo lá para meados da próxima semana, uma vez que vou tirar uns dias de férias. Mais tarde mostro-vos fotos com as calças vestidas no meu outro blogue Já me podem ver a usar as calças aqui. Fiquem bem!

I’ve been lusting over this style of pants for quite some time and finally found the perfect combination of pattern-fabric-color which fulfilled my vision.

ETA: Click here for pictures of me wearing these pants.

Pattern used: Patrones Magazine n289, model33 – Sailor style wide pants with high waist, front buttoned double placket, back adjusting ties, in-seam pockets and topstitched hems; my interpretation includes topstitching on the high waist as well and I also included 1 5/8 wide side panels (not by choice, I included these panels rather to make the pants fit).


Fabric: synthetic blend crepe.

Traced size: 42 (intermediate size in between the 40 and 44 both provided in the magazine; it should be equivalent to BurdaStyle’s 38).

Alterations: Things didn’t go smoothly with this project at first. Eager to get the pants done, I trusted my previous experience with Patrones pants and went ahead without measuring the pattern and checking its sizing. The pants were nearly done (this happened last weekend), just needed hemming and sewing in the buttons, when I first tried them on. To my dismay, I learned that it was impossible to button up the pants closed on my body. When this happened my first reaction was tossing the pants away and looking to buy similar ones (I happened to spot similar style red pants earlier in the week at a RTW shop). Having had so much work to get the plackets done properly, making them all over again from scratch seemed like a masochistic task. The next day I went to the RTW store and picked up the red pants but something in the model was off, I wasn’t satisfied and instead of buying it I went to the nearby fabric store to buy some more red crepe (I was more receptive to the thought of starting all over again by then; a good night sleep makes wonders to your perspective). Again I was devastated because there wasn’t any red crepe left, it was sold out. Getting back to the RTW store and buying the other red pants was an option, but I didn’t go for it. I started thinking of a way to save at least part of my previous work and I came up with the idea of adding side panels (I had to cut them on grosgrain because I had just a small length of leftover red crepe at home). Armed with the seam ripper, the side seams, the side pockets and all the topstitching had to go; I cut two side panels, interfaced one end of each by two times the waist facing width and stitched them to the side seams and waist facings, remaking the inseam pockets in the process. The upper end of the panels would function as facing. It was time consuming but it was well worth it in the end; the pants fit quite well and I liked their style lines much better than those from the RTW store.

Details:

Front and back:


The in-seam pockets:

The sailor style metal buttons:

The finishing on the wrong side:

The front placket construction is the most defying part of this project. I followed the magazine’s instructions but added a few steps of my own, like reinforcing the stitching lines of the vertical opening with a machine stitch and interfacing its vertex before cutting it open (the opening outline resembles a vertical dart). The construction somehow reminded me of the way of finishing a shirt sleeve opening. I didn’t have the time to document the process and I don’t advise this pattern to the inexperienced.

The hem allowance is nearly three inches long and is topstitched:

Here’s my label on the back’s wrong side:

Conclusion: I’m glad I didn’t throw down the towel because the pants came out really awesome. It was time consuming and troublesome, and with my lack of time these pants were in the making for almost three weeks. I’m hoping to get more time soon and to be able to catch up on my friends blogs as well. From Wednesday on I’ll be at home for a short break so I’ll get a well deserved rest and some quality time for my hobbies! I’ll publish pictures of me wearing these pants as soon as I can, over at my wardrobe blog Click here to see me wearing these pants. Happy Sewing!