Miss Fisher DIY Sewing Guide: belted blazer and Jodhpurs (sewing patterns round-up)

 EN Summary: Today's Miss Fisher DIY Sewing Guide is about belted blazers and Jodhpurs. Keep reading for a list of sewing patterns that can be used to sew Miss Fisher's daring look!
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PT Sumário: O especial de hoje tem a haver com o look da Mish Fisher com blazer cintado e calças à cavaleiro. Continuem a ler a compilação de moldes que vos trago hoje, que permitirão recriar este look!



EN: Thank you all for the lovely comments on my previous posts and also for letting me know of a few additional options for patterns and historical facts, I really appreciate it! Thank you "Summer Flies" for pointing me out this article (click here), where she documents her visit to the Miss Fisher Costume Exhibit in Brisbane, containing photos of some really outstanding details. Thank you "paloverdeblooms" for directing me to the Butterick Historical pattern B6433 which is a very close replica of Miss Fisher's outfit (later also mentioned by "Babsox"):
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PT: Obrigada a todos pelos comentários nos meus posts anteriores e também por me referenciarem opções adicionais para moldes e factos históricos, muito obrigada! Obrigada à "Summer Flies" pelo enlace ao seu artigo onde documenta a sua visita à exposição do guarda-roupa da Miss Fisher em Brisbane (clicar aqui), contendo fotos de alguns detalhes lindíssimos. Obrigada à "paloverdeblooms" por me indicar o molde Butterick B6433, uma reedição histórica em tudo semelhante ao fato da Miss Fisher, e que podem ver abaixo (mais tarde a Babsox também o mencionou):
EN: Also thanks Paco for sending me the Pattern Vault links which bring historical context to this costume; I've learned from the article "Year of the Horse: Vintage Equestrian Patterns" that women's modern equestrian wear really started in the 1920's and that's when women began to wear jodhpurs, also called riding breeches. Besides this article you can also learn a lot more of the 1920's era fashion wise as you browse the sewing patterns released in that time under the tag 1920s (click here) and start to relate Miss Fisher's costumes to its era context. After reading these articles my admiration for Marion Boyce has grown even more (Marion Boyce is the costume designer/creative mind behind Miss Fisher's stunning wardrobe, and was also responsible for The Dressmaker movie wardrobe).
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PT: Obrigada ao Paco por me indicar os links para o Pattern Vault, que adicionam contexto histórico a este fato. Com o artigo "Year of the Horse: Vintage Equestrian Patterns" aprendi que a moda equestre feminina moderna iniciou-se realmente nos anos 20, quando as mulheres começaram a usar as jodhpurs, também denominadas de "bragas de montar". Além deste artigo podem aprender mais sobre a moda dos anos 20 através dos moldes de costura publicados na época: há uma série de artigos com a tag 1920s (clicar aqui) que vos farão olhar para o passado com outros olhos. Depois de ler estes artigos a minha admiração por Marion Boyce aumentou ainda mais (a Marion Boyce é a designer/mente criativa por trás de todos os conjuntos usados pela Miss Fisher na série de TV e foi também responsável pela criação do guarda-roupa do filme "A Vingança está na Moda" - título original: "The Dressmaker").

EN: Many of the vintage original/re-editions sewing patterns for Jodhpurs/riding breeches can be found on eBay, Etsy and specialized pattern sale websites; here're a few that I found on Etsy, but there's a lot more:
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PT: Muitos dos moldes originais e re-edições posteriores das bragas de montar podem ser encontrados à venda no eBay, Etsy e websites especializados em venda de moldes. Aqui têm alguns que encontrei no Etsy, mas há muitos mais:

Jean Hardy Patterns #570
 Vintage Vogue 8087:
 Vintage McCall's 7670
Authentic Patterns, Inc #256
EN: The BurdaStyle magazine regularly features riding pants; I haven't found any true Jodhpurs style with the extended hip sides but perhaps you prefer a slimmer look so here are a few options:
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PT: A revista BurdaStyle costuma conter moldes de calças de montar com regularidade; não encontrei nenhuma estilo "braga", mas quem sabe preferem uma versão sem as ancas evidenciadas, por isso deixo aqui algumas opções:

BurdaStyle 2014Jan #110
 BurdaStyle 2016Oct #124
  BurdaStyle 2016Feb #114
 EN: You can always try to draft your own Jodhpurs from an existing basic pant pattern (photo reference: the book "Il Modelismo Sartoriale"):
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PT: Podem sempre tentar desenhas as vossas bragas partindo de um molde bácico de calça (referência do livro "Il Modelismo Sartoriale")
 EN: Miss Fisher's belted jacket could also be emulated from some classic blazer patterns; here are a few suggestions:
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PT: A jaqueta da Miss Fisher também pode ser confecionada a partir de um molde básico de blazer; a seguir deixo algumas sugestões:

 BurdaStyle 2014Jan #120
 BurdaStyle 2017Feb #102 (more safari style)
 McCall's 6172 view B:
 Vogue 8333 (a Claire Shaeffer design, if you want really exquisite tailoring details):
EN: There are also the two Marfy blazers listed in my previous article. This should be enough to fill your minds with ideas (as a matter of fact my mind is overflowing right now!). Until next time!
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PT: Têm também os dois blazers Marfy que incluí no artigo anterior. Deve ser suficiente para vos encher a cabeça de ideias (a minha está já a transbordar, lol!). Até à próxima!

4 comments:

Julie Culshaw said...

You might take a look at Folkwear Patterns, they have a lot of vintage patterns with particular themes.

https://www.folkwear.com/

Tany said...

Thank you Julie for the link! The Folkwear Patterns is a goldmine! I've bookmarked several of their patterns!

PsychicSewerKathleen said...

PsychicSewerKathleen I love Miss Fisher's mysteries not the least for the costumes! Great post thank you! I did go to folkpatterns (link left by another commenter) and ordered their hat pattern so thank you to Julie for leaving that link! They have wonderful and unique patterns.

Tany said...

Kathleen I am about to order that same hat pattern! It looks like a good match to the linen hat Phryne usually wears along with her linen driving coat :)