EN Summary: The lining around the armhole is finished and in this article I share photos of the main steps involved in the process of obtaining the inside finish of the armhole. It seems easy but it isn't; there's a lot of fiddling around with the lining seam allowances and nothing beats watching it live (main reference for this process: Susan Khalje's Classic French Jacket video class).
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PT Sumário: O acabamento do forro na cava da jaqueta está concluído e neste artígo partilho fotos dos principais passos envolvidos neste acabamento. Até parece fácil, mas não é (acomodar as margens de costura do forro e alinhar as costuras não é nada fácil), e nada é melhor do que ver o acabamento a ser feito ao vivo (referência principal: video Classic French Jacket da Susan Khalje).
EN: The first thing to do is pinning the jacket's lining along the armhole seam without pulling the fashion fabric on the right side and obtaining a perfect alignment of the lining seams with the jacket seams.
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PT: A primeira coisa a fazer é prender com alfinetes o forro da jaqueta à cava, tendo cuidado para não repuxar o tecido da jaqueta por baixo e alinhando as costuras do forro com as da jaqueta.
EN: Then the jacket's lining is basted along the armhole seam (very slightly on the SAs side so the basting is not visible on the right side of the jacket), trimmed and clipped where necessary.
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PT: Depois o forro da jaqueta é alinhavado à cava (junto à costura mas do lado das margens de costura, para não se ver no direito da cava), aparado e golpeado onde necessário.
EN: The sleeve lining is pinned along the basted line, once again aligning all seams, and trimmed and clipped where necessary; then it's easier to turn in the lining seam allowances and pin them in place:
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PT: O forro da manga é preso com alfinetes à linha alinhavada da cava, uma vez mais alinhando todas as costuras; é agora mais fácil saber exatamente quanto se deve aparar as margens do forro da manga e depois virar estas margens para dentro e prendê-las com alfinetes:
EN: And the armhole lining is ready to be permanently fell-stitched, removing the pins as you go. Next up is sewing the border trim and the facings. Stay tuned!
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PT: E o foror da cava está pronto a ser cosido à mão com pontos invisíveis, retirando os alfinetes à medida que se cose. A seguir vou coser o vivo às orlas da jaqueta e as vistas com gola seguida!.Mantenham-se atentos!
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5 comments:
Having done this I can echo just how fiddly this part of the process is. You've done a beautiful job of it. It's tough getting it all together so it doesn't pull the lining or the fashion fabric.
Bunny: It is indeed difficult; it's necessary to check and double check on the right side to make sure the lining isn't pulling and the stitches aren't visible. It takes time and lots of patience :)
Qué pulcritud Tany, pura artesanía... 😍😍
Muchas gracias, Carmen!
Qué buen trabajo! Me gusta mucho disfrutar del proceso. La costura lenta, poco a poco, y tan bien hecha es maravillosa!! Bss
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