Saturday, September 12, 2015

The Couture French Jacket: the lining is finished, time to hand-sew the pockets – Jaqueta alta-costura inspirada em Chanel: o forro está acabado, passamos a coser à mão os bolsos


EN Summary: After fell-stitching the lining to the jacket’s edges, I moved on to the pockets, which are completely hand-sewn. Although I had originally planned on sewing hand-worked buttonholes on the pockets, the fact that in this case the buttons would be stitched to an unsupported layer of boucle (the side panels) is making me re-think this option. Read on to find out about my progress so far. 

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PT Sumário: Depois de coser o forro às orlas da jaqueta com pontos invisíveis, passei à confeção dos bolsos, que são inteiramente costurados à mão. Apesar de inicialmente ter planeado bordar casas de botão nos bolsos, o facto de, neste caso, ter de coser os botões diretamente sobre o bouclé que não está reforçado (painéis laterais), está a fazer-me considerar outras opções. Continuem a ler para verem o meu progresso até ao momento.


EN: So far the lining is finished (fell-stitched to the jacket’s edges) and now we’re able to admire the jacket’s true form. I am very happy with it and the jacket’s proportions seem right on point; it’s becoming exactly what I had envisioned. Below you can see the lining and the inside of the buttonholes detail; the jacket is indeed very light and unstructured and when worn unbuttoned the neck/front edge doesn’t stay up, like on tailored jackets. This is how it is supposed to be, and I’ve seen this effect on many genuine Chanel jackets (that’s why they are called cardigans). 

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PT: O acabamento do forro está completado (o forro é cosido com pontos invisíveis às orlas da jaqueta) e agora já podemos admirara a verdadeira forma da jaqueta. Estou bastante satisfeita e as proporções parecem-me bastante bem; está a tornar-se exatamente no que eu tinha imaginado. Abaixo podem ver o detalhe do forro e a parte de dentro das casas de botão. A jaqueta é de facto muito leve e desestruturada e quando usada desabotoada, as frentes junto ao decote não ficam direitas como nas jaquetas de alfaiate, caiem um pouco. É assim que é suposto ser com este tipo de jaquetas (por isso também são chamadas de cardigans) e tenho visto este mesmo efeito em jaquetas Chanel genuínas.

EN: I started on the pockets and finished one of the smaller ones (there will be four pockets, as on many traditional Chanel jackets, and the ones on top will be slightly smaller). At this point I was faced with a dilemma: there is no problem with making the hand-worked buttonholes on the pockets (in this case they wouldn’t finished with the lining welts on the inside), but what about the buttons stitched to a single layer of thin knit boucle? The stitches cannot be visible on the lining side and, as far as I know, backing buttons weren’t used for this type of jackets. At this point I am wishing I had underlined the boucle with thin cotton batiste as a well experienced friend had suggested (unfortunately her suggestion came too late); this fabric is so soft and thin (slightly see through), besides it’s a knit boucle although it doesn’t seem like it on the right side. While constructing the jacket I could have reinforced the button area but I couldn’t be 100% sure of the button placement until the jacket was sewn and the pockets are made. 

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PT: Comecei a fazer os bolsos e terminei um dos mais pequenos (a jaqueta leva quatro, como muitas das jaquetas tradicionais Chanel; os que ficam em cima são ligeiramente mais pequenos). Nesta altura teria de bordar a casa de botão mas pus-me apensar se seria boa ideia coser o botão ao bouclé sem qualquer reforço (é o caso dos painéis laterais). Os pontos não podem passar para o forro e usar um botão pequeno de reforço no avesso não é algo que se veja nas jaquetas Chanel tradicionais. Comecei a desejar ter usado um “entre-forro” (underlining) de batista de algodão muito fina, como uma amiga bastante experiente já me tinha sugerido (infelizmente já tarde demais); este tecido é tão macio e fino (até ligeiramente transparente) e de facto, embora não pareça do lado direito, é uma malha. Poderia ter reforçado o sitio de colocação do botão antes de ter acolchoado o forro, mas sem a jaqueta terminada e os bolsos já feitos seria muito difícil ter a certeza do lugar exato onde aplicar este reforço.

EN: Below you can see the wrong side of the pocket, lined with silk habotai; the pin is holding the button on the other side and it’s keeping it “close” to the fabric. If I decide to stitch the button to the pocket directly, I’ll stitch it like this (stitching from the inside of the pocket)so it doesn’t “hang” down in consequence of its high shank. 

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PT: Abaixo podem ver o avesso do bolso, forrado com habotai de seda; o alfinete segura o botão no lado direito e faz com que se “enterre” mais no tecido, não ficando pendurado em consequência do “pé” do botão. Se decidir coser o botão ao bolso, será assim que o vou coser, com pontos do lado do avesso do bolso.

EN: I still have three more pockets to make and will resume sewing them tomorrow, so my final decision is postponed until all three patch pockets are completed. I’ve just remember I have to get some large wire cutting pliers so I’m able to cut my chain to the hem measurement size. More later!

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PT: Ainda me falta fazer três bolsos e só vou continuar a costura amanhã, sendo que a minha decisão ficará adiada até ter os quatro bolsos terminados. Também me lembrei que preciso de arranjar um alicate de corte grande para cortar a corrente da bainha no tamanho certo! Até breve!

6 comments:

Cindy Ann said...

Your jacket is looking quite perfect! I'm so impressed at your speedy progress. I am using hooks for the front of my jacket but wanted to make fuctional buttonholes on both sleeve placket and pockets. I'm short and I'm concerned about the jacket looking too bulky, so wanted to avoid any additional bulk at center front. I've been thinking about how to reinforce my somewhat loose boucle so that it can support a button on the jacket body, so your post is relevant to me right now. Looking at your pictures (I didn't plan pocket placement on my muslin because I thought I'd wait and see how the fashion fabric was looking. ) It seems that the reinforcement needs to be on the side front panel? Since I've quilted all the pieces but my center front panels, maybe I need to reconsider using buttons on the pockets. ( I had a very irritating problem getting some silk organza for this project and have been waiting for over 3 weeks now for delivery. All my fault, however.) I just wanted to tie in the sleeve buttons with the pockets to achieve some cohesion with the jacket design. I've learned that thoughtful planning is a requirement for a jacket like this.

Sew Hopeful said...

This is just breathtaking in its beauty! Absolutely impeccable work.

Tany said...

Cindy Ann:
I think I've just had a breakthrough regarding the buttons and this may help with your jacket too! If the buttons are stitched close to the seam on the side panel they will benefit of the large SAs as padding so won't be stitched on a single layer of boucle. I also thought that if necessary, we could unstitch the lining seam and insert a little square of fabric inside for extra reinforcement on the button placement area. Let me know if this idea works for you!
Sew Hopeful: Thank you so much!

Soph said...

Absolutely magnificent work!!!! As always! Thank you for sharing.

Mónica Martinho said...

Está mesmo a ficar fabulosa! Excelente trabalho!

Gail said...

Tany, it is beautiful. I hope Enrique marries because you've created an heirloom piece.