Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Learning Resources for making a Couture French jacket – Fontes de aprendizagem para fazer uma jaqueta alta-costura inspirada em Chanel


EN Summary: In this post I’ve gathered a few resources that I’ve used for researching the traditional techniques used on the construction of a Chanel Inspired jacket (Click on the title or on the link below to read full content). 

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PT Sumário: Neste artigo apresento os principais recursos que usei na minha pesquisa sobre as técnicas tradicionais de alta-costura usadas na confeção das jaquetas Chanel (Cliquem no título ou no link abaixo para lerem todo o conteúdo).


EN: Both these books are by Claire Shaeffer and where my first resource (and the one most readily available – Amazon, The Book Depository, etc.) on the construction details of traditional Couture Chanel techniques. I also ordered the book on the couture skirt because I’m thinking of making one too, after finishing the jacket. The Couture Jacket Cardigan book contains the following chapters: 

GETTING STARTED (Design and Materials, Cutting and Marking) 

CONSTRUCTING THE JACKET (Quilting the Jacket, Stabilizing and Shaping, The New Construction Order) 

BUTTONHOLES (Double Buttonholes) 

ASSEMBLING THE SLEEVES (The Three-Piece Sleeve) 

FINISHING THE EDGES (Techniques for Edges) 

SETTING THE SLEEVES (Hand-set Sleeves) 

PATCH POCKETS TECHNIQUES (Couture Patch Pockets) 

FINISHING DETAILS (Little Details That Make a Big Difference) 

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE COUTURE CARDIGAN JACKET (What Makes Chanel Cardigan Jacket Different?, Copies and Knockoffs, Chronology of Coco Chanel and The House of Chanel) 

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PT: O livro à esquerda foi a minha primeira fonte de informação sobre a emblemática jaqueta e os métodos de Alta-Costura utilizados na sua confeção, pois é de fácil acesso (Amazon, The Book Depository, etc.). Também encomendei o livro sobre a saia (mais recente) pois mal acabe a jaqueta sou bem capaz de fazer a saia. Acima têm os capítulos que encontram no livro sobre a jaqueta.

EN: The Best of Threads (Collector’s edition) Designer Techniques was sent to me by a friend in the US and contains a compilation of Threads articles on Couture/Designer techniques, including The Muslin Refined by Susan Khalje and Inside a Designer Jacket by Claire Shaeffer. You can find the magazine on Taunton Store (click here), and it’s also available in PDF format. 

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PT: Best of Threads (Collector’s edition) Designer Techniques foi-me enviada por uma Amiga nos Estados Unidos e é uma edição especial da revista Threads que contém uma compilação dos artigos sobre técnicas de Alta-Costura que foram sendo publicadas. Com relevância para este projeto há os artigos O modelo de prova refinado por Susan Khalje e O Interior de uma jaqueta de Designer, por Claire Shaeffer. Esta edição pode ser comprada no website da Tauton (aqui) onde também podem adquirir a versão em PDF.



EN: I also own these Vogue patterns by Claire Chaeffer (V8804 and V8259, no longer available on VoguePatterns) which include detailed instructions on the construction process. Both patterns feature three-piece sleeves, no side seams (side panel) and princess seams. I also own V8991 (which doesn’t feature three-piece sleeves) but I can’t find it anywhere, I must have misplaced it. 

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PT: Também tenho estes moldes da Vogue (V8804 e V8259, este último já não se encontra à venda no site da VoguePatterns), os quais incluem instruções detalhadas do processo de construção. Ambos os moldes têm mangas de 3 peças, painéis laterais (não têm costuras laterais) e costuras princesa na frente. Também tenho o V8991 (que tem mangas de duas peças), mas não co consigo encontrar em lado nenhum.


EN: Recommended by many friends are the Susan Khalje’s workshops and classes, and now available on video is The Classic French Jacket (click here). Also a must read is Marina’s articles (Frabjous Couture blog) documenting the entire class and the construction of her Couture Jacket (click here). She did a wonderful job documenting the classes and the process and her posts, besides inspirational, are extremely informative.

Please, if you know any more sources on this topic, feel free to share!

And it is all for now! This week I am extremely busy attending to a training session/certification at work so there’s much time for sewing or other blogging activities, yet I was able to prepare this article during the weekend so I can share it with you all! Happy sewing!

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PT: Recomendados por muitas amigas nos Estados Unidos são os cursos e workshops da Susan Khalje, e o The Classic French Jacket encontra-se agora disponível em vídeo (clicar aqui). Uma leitura obrigatória, um destes workshops documentados na íntegra pela Marina do blogue Frabjous Cuture, além de detalhes e técnicas sobre todo o processo e o resultado final, uma jaqueta Alta-Costura estilo Chanel magnifica. (clicar aqui). Além de inspirador, o blogue dela é extremamente informativo!

Se souberem de mais fontes de informação neste tópico, por favor partilhem!

E é tudo,… Esta semana ando extremamente ocupada com uma formação com certificação no trabalho, pelo que não sobra grande tempo para a costura e para os blogues,… Vá lá que durante o fim-de-semana ainda consegui preparar este artigo! Desejos de boas costuras a todos!

5 comments:

Bunny said...

Claire Shaeffer offers couture sewing classes as well. I believe she has the Chanel suit scheduled as well as couture pants, I think a la Valentino. She is on facebook and you can glean her class info from there. She is a great teacher, knows more than you can possibly imagine about couture and couturiers, is witty and delightful and generous. I had a wonderful time with my class and learned so very much that has stayed with me. The accommodations were top notch. I highly recommend.

I really like the two books you suggested as well. I do try to get every pattern she designs as they are courses in themselves, teaching so much.

Mónica Martinho said...

Não conheço fontes de costura, mas parece-me que já tens uma excelente biblioteca.

sewingdreamsblog said...

Leisa from A challenging sew and Inna from Thewallinna hosted a sew along two years ago. http://achallengingsew.typepad.com/my-blog/little-french-jacket-sew-along.html. Both also attended the class from Susan Khalje.

Graca said...

Hello, I thought of you this morning when I was reading Goodbye Valentino's blog. She is hosting a give-away of Susan Khlaje's The Classic French Jacket course. You can find it here http://goodbyevalentino.com/susan-khalje-giveaway/

Tany said...

Thank you so much Graca. I've already enrolled on this course, and so far I am LOVING it. I can't wait to receive the pattern. I've watched all the videos and I think Susan is absolutely brilliant! I will share her giveaway here and on Facebook.