Monday, November 25, 2013

BurdaStyle 06/2011, model 115C – Black coat with leather sleeves

Description: Long overall straight coat, fully lined, is adjusted by french darts and has round bottom edges and a long slit at the center back. My version has inseam pockets instead of the original’s patch pockets and pleather sleeves. I used a very nice 100%wool tailoring fabric that I ordered from the UK. For the lining I used black satin with a red bias tape accent. See me wearing the coat here.

Descrição: Casaco forrado longo de corte direito ajustado por pinças francesas, tem orlas arredondadas e abertura atrás. A minha versão tem bolsos metidos na costura a substituir os bolsos de chapa da versão original e mangas de napa. Para o corpo do casaco usei um tecido 100% lã de alfaiataria que encomendei de Inglaterra. O forro é de cetim preto e tem um vivo vermelho a contrastar. Podem ver-me a usar o casaco clicando aqui.

Original Model: June 2011 BurdaStyle, model 115C

Modelo original: BurdaStyle Junho 2011, modelo 115C
 I started sewing this coat back in November 2011, if I’m not mistaken… It was almost finished (I had only to bag the lining and work on the finishing details) when my swing mojo has gone away inexplicably. A few days later I knew I was pregnant and during my entire pregnancy I had zero sewing mojo (unbelievable, right?). During the first few months after giving birth I literally had no time to even think about sewing; and during the months that followed, I had plenty of sewing mojo back, yet no time to sew. A couple of months ago I knew I had to finish this coat, the itching to sew was ever growing and took advantage of my son’s napping time during the afternoon in the weekends to be able to finally finish my coat… And up until now, it has been the only sewing done this year. Yesterday I took some time to photograph it and write a few words about it, at the expense of less sleeping time (and nowadays I do value my sleeping time a LOT!). Finding the original pattern that I used so I could refer to it was another adventure… Why on earth did I have to pick a summer issue to make a winter coat?!

Comecei este casaco em Novembro de 2011, se não estou em erro… Já o tinha quase concluído (faltava aplicar o forro e alguns acabamentos) quando a minha vontade de costurar desapareceu… Alguns dias depois descobri que estava grávida e durante toda a gravidez tive “zero” de vontade de costurar. Depois do meu filho nascer, nos primeiros meses não tive hipóteses sequer de pensar nisso… E quando finalmente voltei a pensar, simplesmente não tinha tempo nem oportunidade para costurar. A vontade de costurar desde aí foi crescendo, mas o tempo, esse não… Há coisa de três meses, lá fui pegando no casaco e em dois fins-de-semana, aproveitando as sestas do meu filho à tarde, lá o acabei. Foi o único projecto de costura que consegui concluir até agora… E lá consegui arranjar um tempinho para o fotografar, e escrever algum texto, à custa de menos tempo de sono (e acreditem que hoje em dia dou muito valor ao meu tempo de sono!). Entretanto descobrir qual o molde que tinha usado em 2011 para o referir aqui foi outra aventura. Para dificultar ainda mais, este molde saiu numa revista de verão! 

As a long time has passed, I have no sewing details to share (I can say I used a mix of modern and vintage tailoring techniques on this coat), just a few quick detail shots after modeling the coat in my backyard:

Não tenho detalhes da confecção para partilhar (posso dizer que usei uma mistura de técnicas clássicas e modernas de confecção, como já tenho feito com outros casacos), apenas algumas fotos tiradas à pressa depois de ter modelado o casaco no meu jardim:

The back slit detail:

Detalhes da abertura nas costas do casaco:

The lining bottom wearing ease fold goes above the slit in this case:

A dobra do forro no avesso (é preciso alguma folga para não repuxar ao usar o casaco), neste caso fica no topo da abertura:

A few more details of the lining:

Detalhes do acabamento do forro:



Setting in the pleather sleeves was hell and they didn’t turn out as good as I am used to, but I thing they pass as average and are certainly better than the sleeves on the original coat that I was knocking off (a RTW coat that I saw at a well know retail shop). The coat also feels great on; I’m very pleased with the overall result. Here's a picture of the coat which inspired me:


As mangas foram bastante difíceis de ajustar e coser e não ficaram tão bem quanto eu gosto, mas acho que passam por razoáveis. O casaco pretende imitar um casaco que vi numa loja e francamente ficou melhor que o original, incluindo as mangas! Podem ver uma foto do casaco no qual me inspirei:

I hope you like my “new” coat, and thank you all so much for keep visiting in spite of my very long hiatus. I’m not sure when I’ll be updating this blog again… I haven’t been sewing and even if I did, this type of posts is very time consuming. Chances are I’ll manage to write more about my sewing musings, books I’ve been acquiring, etc. than actual sewing projects on the making; I also think that taking a few quick outfit photos in the morning from time to time is manageable so I'll be trying to update my wardrobe blog as well. We’ll see how it goes from here, all I can promise is my best effort! Big hugs to you all!

Espero que gostem, e muito obrigada por ainda cá passarem apesar da minha longa ausência. Não sei quando conseguirei voltar a publicar aqui, por um lado porque não tenho costurado praticamente nada, por outro porque dá bastante mais trabalho do que o meu outro blogue. O mais certo é escrever mais sobre as minhas inspirações na área da costura e modelagem, livros que vou adquirindo, etc. e menos sobre projetos de costura. Tirar umas fotos rápidas do que vou vestindo e publicá-las com um texto mínimo é algo que acho exequível com o tempo que tenho, por isso provavelmente verão mais artigos no Tany et La Mode do que aqui… O máximo que posso prometer é o meu melhor esforço! Um grande abraço a todos(as)!


30 comments:

Summer Flies said...

Great to 'see' you again Tany! A boy is a lot of work and fun and sewing takes a back seat, but time comes back to you slowly and looking after a boy is great - different rewards! I hope everything is going well for you all.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Oh i was soooo thrilled to sew your post. You look amazing :)
Welcome back!

(For some reason I couldn't leave a comment on your other blog. I'll try again :)

Lori said...

First congratulations. Your coat is beautiful and I am so happy to see your post again.

Adrienne said...

Beautiful coat!!!

A Rebelde Sem Casa said...

Bem vinda de volta, Tany!Excelente trabalho, como é hábito.

Tuca said...

Tany!!!
Muito bom abrir o blog e descobrir que você está de volta, seja muito bem vinda, as vezes por motivos pessoais precisamos dar um tempo, eu também precisei fazer isto. Tenha uma ótima semana. Bjs.
Tuca.

Mamã Martinho said...

Como eu te percebo... Cada vez durmo menos e cada vez ando mais cansada... O teu H. deve estar lindo e enorme! Fico contente de te ver cá de volta, seja aqui ou no outro blog!

Bjs

Mónica

PS- O casaco ficou como sempre fenomenal!

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

what a treat to see a post from you in my blog list this morning. Gorgeous coat and thanks for the photos.

SheriNJ said...

Missed you! How fashion forward you are - you started this coat years ago, and yet today it looks so "right this second" fashion wise. Great job!

Marie-Noëlle Lafosse said...

fabulous coat. I love red piping. Wishing your sewing mojo is back for good.

Nancy K said...

It's a wonderful coat. I was glad to see this post pop up on my sidebar.

Marie said...

Your coat is gorgeous. Lovely to see you posting again.

Vicki said...

Gorgeous coat. I love just seeing the details even if there is no technical content. You have provided us with so much of that over the years that we can refer to.

Linda said...

It was exciting to see that you had written a post. I am sure your baby requires a lot of your time; so glad to see that your sewing mojo is rising. Gorgeous coat, excellent job as usual. Wishing you well.

Gigi said...

It's so nice to hear from you and Congratulations! I can relate! I took a several year break from sewing after the birth of my son. I think he was three before I was able to really get back to it. Of course, back then in the 1990s there was no blogging to keep us busy! Enjoy your baby and what little time you have to yourself.

Rosie said...

Tany - another lovely coat. Great to see you blogging again. Hope the little one and the family (including the cats) are doing well. Beijo!

dikisdersi said...

tany .hoş geldin .ve manton harika...

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

The coat is awesome! Totally understand about trying to sew with a little one, I can wait for things to settle down and your return to your sewing machine.

Erica B. said...

That coat is simply amazing! And your construction details are perfection per usual!

AllisonC said...

Those finishing details that it took 2 years to get around to doing look absolutely perfect. So great to see you posting again on both of your blogs, your posts never fail to inspire me.

kaybeeunique said...

oooppsss.... my previous comment just got lost somewhere.....

But.... I couldn't believe my eyes when my bloglines showed an update for your website!
and... you're back with a bang! Great coat, and as usual, great finesse and craftsmanship. Looking forward to see more, I might be even go back into sewing myself!

Lizzie said...

Lovely to hear from you Tany! Looks like everything is going well with you. That's a gorgeous coat.

Tony Isaacs said...

It's great to have you back . It was such a lovely surprise to see your coat rather than that lovely baby blanket . Life with babies is very busy . You look great though so it must suit you . Sewing kept me sane as it had a beginning and an end , I was in control and was rewarded by a result at the end . A bit differ ting to mothering by boys ! :)

Dana said...

Welcome back! The coat is beautiful.

Mom (Míriam) said...

Quando você volta, você volta de verdade! Que bom! Casaco lindo, como sempre.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Gorgeous coat! Your sleeves look good to me, and your lining is exquisite as always. Thank you for taking the time share--I love drooling over your beautiful work.

Clotelle said...

Welcome back Tany!

Tany said...

Thank you all fo rthe lovely comments!
Obrigada a todas pelas palavras simpáticas!

Zuzana said...

I am happy to see you back! I can very well understand how you felt about sewing during the past months - I went through very similar phases during my pregnancy and with a small child, there si never enough time to start and actually finish a sewing project, so it´s been more than a year now that I was able to sew something. Hope to follow your good example and get back to sewing soon as well :).
Zuzana

senaSews said...

Your coat is gorgeous. It looks so well done and is very you.

I really know your situation. Don't mind, it's your blog so you can post what and whenever you want. We all will enjoy your posts - efen if they are only sporadic.