Sunday, October 16, 2011

2011#28&29 - Vogue 1259 (Donna Karan shirred Top & Skirt)

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Mais fotos minhas a usar o conjunto aqui.

Molde Utilizado: V1259 Donna Karan Misses top and skirt
Este é um dos modelos que simplesmente não dá para mostrar decentemente no manequim de costura, uma vez que o efeito da saia no manequim fica completamente deturpado.
Tecido usado: Jersey acetinado antracite (creio que a composição seja poliéster e lycra, mas não sei as percentagens; é uma malha com cair pesado que comprei na Feira dos Tecidos; é o mesmo tipo de malha que usei para a saia meio-círculo do Paco e top raglan a condizer)

Confecção: Creio que seria impossível documentar o processo de construção do top, que é bastante complicado, com tantas peças e drapeados (a saia, pelo contrário, é bastante simples). Há duas “reviews” excelentes acerca deste molde, onde poderão inclusivamente ver fotos do desenho das peças do molde e alguns conselhos excelentes para não se perderem na construção. Em Inglês têm um excelente artigo da Melissa Fehr:

http://www.fehrtrade.com/gallery/508/the-vogue-1259-donna-karan-gathered-skirt-set

A Melissa explica um pouco sobre o processo “tortuoso” de construção do top, dando dicas preciosas para não se perderem no meio de tantas peças e costuras. Outro artigo muito bom é do blogue Oui Patrons, desta vez escrito em Francês, onde a autora explica algumas modificações que fez ao molde para que este lhe assentasse melhor:

http://ouipatrons.com/2011/08/28/vogue-v1259-by-donna-karan/

A autora explica que no final o top não ficou tão justo na cintura como a foto do modelo original dá a entender (o que é verdade, reparei o mesmo), tendo ajustado esta peça do molde de forma a ficar mais justa. No meu caso decidi manter a forma um pouco solta do drapeado, pois não me desagradou.

Modificações: Fiz o acabamento das costuras franzidas expostas um pouco diferente; em vez de aparar as margens rente ao 2º pesponto, deixei-as para formarem uma espécie de mini-folho (ou mini-babado em brasileiro):
Outra coisa que fiz diferente foi a costura indicada pelas setas vermelhas nas costas do top; decidi fazê-la normalmente pelo avesso, uma vez que sem o folho ficaria um pouco sem graça:
Na gola utilizei molas de pressão de plástico, como podem ver:
Mais algumas fotos:
Conclusão: Um modelo complicado de fazer (um verdadeiro puzzle), à excepção da saia que penso estar ao alcance de qualquer principiante. Não fica tão justo como a foto do molde deixa adivinhar, mas acho que mesmo assim é um modelo muito original e bonito!

A seguir tenho para vos mostrar um vestido da Burda de Outubro que me deixou completamente rendida! Vamos ver consigo algum tempo para escrever o artigo sem grande demora! Obrigada a todos pela visita!

More pictures of me wearing this ensemble (click here).

Pattern: V1259 Donna Karan Misses top and skirt
This is one of those projects that you really can’t tell how it looks from the dressform picture, which ruins the skirt's effect completely.
Fabric used: It’s a anthracite polyester jersey knit (I’m not quite sure of its composition though; I can tell it’s heavier than the regular jersey and it drapes much better; it’s the same kind of knit I used on Paco’s half-circle skirt)

Construction: It would be impossible to document the construction process for the top, because it's visually complicated with lots of pieces and different seams (the skirt however is quite easy to make). I found two excellent reviews that provide a wealth of information about this pattern, along with some very useful tips for the assembling of the top. Melissa made an excellent job; you’ll find her review really useful if you plan on making this set:

http://www.fehrtrade.com/gallery/508/the-vogue-1259-donna-karan-gathered-skirt-set

I’ve also found another excellent post at Oui Patrons (in French). The author explains that she had to alter the pattern for a better fit around the waist:

http://ouipatrons.com/2011/08/28/vogue-v1259-by-donna-karan/

She came to realize that the top is not as figure hugging as the original model picture makes believe (this is very true, I realized the same but chose to keep the top as it came out originally). She went back unstitching some of the seams, and redrafted the front pieces for a better fit.

Alterations: I didn’t finish the exposed seams as the instructions tell you to do; instead of trimming the excess seam allowances, I kept them to form a small frill:
I also did the seaming differently on the back; I went for a regular seam instead of the exposed seam on the section between the red arrows:
I used plastic pressure snaps (less bulk, these are very thin) for the back neck closure, as you can see:
Here’re a couple more photos:
Conclusion: I kid you not, this is a hard one (a true puzzle), except for the skirt which I believe is doable by a beginner. In my opinion this pattern is worth all the trouble if you are up for the challenge!

Next I will show you a BurdaStyle dress (from the October edition) that really took my breath away! I’m really looking forward to show you this dress, yet I don’t know when I’ll find the time to post about it; the only thing I can do is promise you that I’ll do it as soon as I can. Stay tuned!

35 comments:

Erica B. said...

I love this! As soon as I find a jersey that I like, I'm making this as well!

Karin said...

This looks fantastic! I like the deep grey colour that you chose too. I have this pattern, but am not an advanced sewer. I am not sure if I will tackle it or not.
Also, just to let you know, I have deleted my old blog, Making the Seam, which may still be on your blogroll. I deleted it because I was linked to malware problems. I replaced it with a squeaky clean new blog. You can now find me at http://sewherewegoagain.blogspot.com/

Bunny said...

A feat of engineering! Looks gorgeous on you.

Nancy K said...

Fabulous! It looks amazing on you.

Anonymous said...

Really like it. This softer (as in less tailored)look is very flattering on you.
Adriana Bore

Summerset said...

You won't believe this - I have this pattern cut out of the tissue and the fabric sitting on one of my work tables ready to be cut and sewn. I've got a antique gold color and will probably only make the top.

Yours looks fantastic! The color is smart and versatile.

hunt4anarnia said...

Tany the detailing in your garments are to die for! Thanks for sharing your gift, keep the inspiration coming!

Wardrobe creator said...

Fantastic work!Espessially I like the top!

greytone said...

so excited to see that you attempted this pattern! It is beautifully made and beautiful on you, as well. The only reason I haven't tried this one is because ai would have to do an FBA and I haven't figured out where to begin on this!...lol.

I love that you also felt the top would be better with a finished edge rather than raw edge. I prefer finished edges on my garments, too. Beautiful work!

Victoria said...

The end results were worth the extra effort! Excellent job Tany. This is another extraordinary outfit!!!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Oh wow....beautiful!

Adrienne said...

Tany this looks excellent on you! Fantastic job as always!

Lizzie said...

That dress is an amazing achievement and it looks great on you. Well done!

MySummerTouch said...

You look like you're going to model it on a runway somewhere in Paris! Love it a lot!! very well made and looks like a couture ansamble!

Audrey said...

I love seeing this dress made up. It is so unique and striking. Well worth the effort!

Fernanda G. said...

conjunto lindo tany, e ficou excenente na cor cinza. espero que os problemas de saude já tenha passado. tudo de bom.
nandacrafts.blogspot.com
este cometário era p colocar no outro blog, mas não sei pq nunca consegui fazer lá comentários. por isso faço aqui bjs

melissa said...

This looks amaaaaazing on you! Thanks for linking to my review, I'm glad I could help you. :)

Mardel said...

It looks fabulous on you. That pattern is on my "dream" stack, the one I hope to get to when all this other "stuff" in my life gets settled.

Oui Patrons! said...

Hi!!

I love your version of this wonderfull pattern. And yes, like you just said, it is really a pain and complicated to assemble.
I love your "frilly edge" version, and i think this is a great idea to keep in mind, and make me think about doing another one this way! But maybe just the top, top wear with jeans. This way, it would be (maybe) easier to alter, if you don't have 2 or 3 seams to open to re-cut a piece!

Thank you for your link to my site and my article!
Bye

senaSews said...

I love this pattern. Your version looks fabulous. Can't wait to make it for myself!

Cíntia said...

Um conjunto bem original e diferente, gosto de conjuntos, mas nunca uso juntos!

aprendizdecostura

Mamã Martinho said...

Que espetaculo de modelo! A mim parece-me super complicado, e acho que não me arriscaria nem com a saia! Ficou fabuloso, muitos parabéns por mais uma peça fabulosa!

Bjs

Mónica

Anonymous said...

Ola Teresa!
bem, esta é a primeira vez que comento aqui (so agora descobri como :P).
Bem, com ja sabe sou um grande fâ seu. Super fâ :D.

Esta fantastica, divinal neste conjunto.As fotos ficaram espetaculares, muito sofisticadas, muito "haute-couture" :D. O conjunto super bem confeccionado, com todo o pormenor, como sempre.

Beijinhos, Bernardo

Priscila B. said...

Muito legal o seu blog! Estou aprendendo a costurar, mas preciso de muitaaaaa aula para conseguir fazer um vestido desse!
Ficou lindo!
bj,
Priscila
www.villarealstore.com.br

Maria Lúcia said...

Oi
Está um doce.
Beijos...
Lúcia

Cennetta said...

Outstanding!
C

Vicki said...

Wow, it looks so complicated. Looks really nice on you.

paco peralta said...

Enhorabuena Tany, es tan fabuloso este conjunto !! Feliz domingo

pontos e acertos said...

menina quando eu penso que vc não pode mais me surpreender...
divino,lindo,parabéns

AllisonC said...

I really want to make this when I find the right fabric too, but if you say it's hard then I am really scared!!

sensoussi said...

Hello delicious Tana, sorry for the long time I let before coming back here. Always marvellous. This grey dress in jersey seems to be so difficult, even the pattern..... for the beginning.
You're very nice inside!
For myself, I stay on very classical dresses or other suits
Hope your enterprise is ok and that you can live with your suits
Have a kiss from Marseille, Florence

La'Sandra said...

Outstanding Lady!

CorteYgrif said...

Esta peça è maravilhosa Tany
adoro o efeito dos franzidos,
e a cor perfeita para esta temporada.
Feliz semana pra ti
A tua mae è uma querida.
bjs
ROSA

Mimi Jackson said...

I love it, love it, love it! (If you could see me jumping up and down right now, you'd know that I REALLY love it!) And I don't jump up and down very often...

DeniseAngela said...

Love love this garment.....,truly a work of art!