Saturday, March 7, 2009

Vogue 1066: A jaqueta – Vogue 1066: The jacket

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Este é um post rápido para vos mostrar a jaqueta do fato Badgley Mischka terminada. No manequim não fica tão bem como em mim, pois não tem braços, mas podem ficar já com uma ideia (as fotos a usar a jaqueta serão publicadas no post final do conjunto Baunilha e Chocolate).

Modelo original: V1066 (Fato Badgley Mishka): A jaqueta é completamente forrada, de linha ampla e parcialmente entretelada (toda excepto as mangas). O seu comprimento é um pouco abaixo da cintura, tem mangas raglan a três quartos com um macho, gola “em pé” e fecha com botões à frente. Tem pespontos de adorno (fotos cortesia de www.voguepatterns.com).


Mais fotos da jaqueta no manequim:


Modificações ao modelo original: Em vez de casas à máquina (que seriam difíceis de fazer para este tamanho de botão), fiz casas avivadas. Usei linha contrastante para os pespontos e modifiquei a colocação dos botões para ficarem equidistantes. Também acrescentei chumaços raglan pequenos, que definem melhor a linha dos ombros neste modelo. O molde não sofreu qualquer tipo de ajuste.

Alguns detalhes:

Os colchetes e os pequenos aros feitos com linha de coser e ponto de casear mantêm a gola alinhada:

As vistas, onde se pode ver o avesso das casas e os pequenos botões de reforço que ficam por baixo dos botões grandes:

A dobra da bainha do forro:

Conclusão: As fotos no manequim não fazem justiça a esta jaqueta, que com as suas mangas a 3/4 é ideal para usar com luvas até ao cotovelo (já comprei umas em camurça castanha, hehehe). A jaqueta fica exactamente como a foto do molde, aqui não há surpresas, e é relativamente fácil de fazer. Creio que os botões e os pespontos beneficiaram este modelo no tecido que escolhi. Fiquei bastante satisfeita com o resultado e agora tenho que por mãos à obra nas calças! Até lá, fiquem bem!


This is a quick post to show you the finished Badgley Mischka’s jacket. I must say it looks much better on me than on the dressform (pictures will follow when the Vanilla&Chocolate collection is completed).

Original model (pictures and description are from www.voguepatterns.com): V1066 Badgley Mischka pant suit. Lined, loose-fitting, partially interfaced jacket, above hip length, has pleated raglan sleeves, bands, stand-up collar and front button closing.


More views on the dressform:


Alterations: I didn’t make any adjustment to the pattern (cut a 12 straight out of the envelope). The buttons are slightly larger than required and I opted for bound buttonholes instead of machine buttonholes (machine buttonholes this big are pretty difficult to make with an automatic buttonholer). I also used contrasting color topstitching to match the buttons. I added small raglan shoulder pads to achieve a better shoulder shape on this model.

A few details are:

The small hooks and the thread loops that keep the collar aligned at the center front:

The facings; you can see the wrong side of the bound buttonholes and the small reinforcement buttons here:

The lining hem fold:

Conclusion: The pictures on the dressform really don’t do justice to this jacket; the wide 3/4 sleeves make it ideal for wearing with elbow gloves (I’ve already purchased a brown suede pair of elbow gloves, lol). The jacket looks exactly like the original, no surprises here. I think the funky buttons and the contrasting topstitching really worked well (just wait to see the matching pants, which will have beige piping and topstitching details!) and I am very pleased. Now I must start sewing the pants! See you in a few days from now!

46 comments:

Erica B. said...

I think the jacket looks great on the dressform and now I really can't wait to see it on you!

Amanda S. said...

Oh, how gorgeous! You are a super speedy seamstress! I think you chose the perfect buttons. In fact, all the details look perfect!

caseykoester said...

Stunning jacket, Tany! The box pleats on the shoulders are very nice. I usually shy away from shoulder details, but those work amazingly well! Love that topstitching! :)

Sigrid said...

The jacket is already wonderful Tany, but I can't wait to see the pants. I've been thinking of buying this pattern but think the jacket does not suit me. But I like the details of the pants and look forward to see them made by you.

Rachel said...

That is an outstanding jacket. Your attention to detail really inspires me. I can't wait to see it on you.

Jackie said...

The jacket is awesome! You are very quick! I nominiated you for the sisterhood award!

Anne e le manine d'oro said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Anne e le manine d'oro said...

I am looking forward seeing this great, great jacket on you. On the pictures, it seams perfectly made. top stitches, button holes everything is so neatly done. As for Sigrid, I also bought that pattern for the pants. I was not certain the jacket would look nice on me. Your version of it makes me wonder. The fabric you chose is wonderful of course it is in your theme of Vanilla & Chocolate. Again, I am amazed by the precision of your topstitches. They look surreal ! ;-

Adelaide B said...

WOW. That jacket is sooo beautiful. I think it looks way better than on the pattern envelope. I can't wait to see it on you.

HeathersSphere said...

Your jacket is a work of art! Dazzling in every way!

Mary Beth said...

Perfect style for you, Tany. The bold buttons and top stitching really work well together, good thinking there. The pants will finish off this wonderful outfit nicely.

Berry said...

It already looks great on the dress form... This is stunning!

Ana's Closet said...

Ficou lindo Tany! Dou o braço a torcer, esses botões ficam a matar com os alinhavos num tom mais claro!

Beijinhos

anita said...

Great looking jacket, Tany! Love those buttons! Your Vanilla&Chocolate collection is coming together beautifully.:)

CreativeBusyHands-Scrapbook Freebies Search said...

Ficou linda! Eu gosto mais do seu casaco do que o casaco na frente do molde. Os botoes ficaram super lindos! Obrigada por partilhar.

Sew4Fun said...

As I said on your review, gorgeous jacket! I didn't like it at all when I bought this pattern.

I can't wait to see your pants, expecially as I'm also sewing them at the moment, although I'm only at the muslin/alteration stage. I might hold off until I see all your sewing tips. :)

Sew4Fun said...

I just want to clarify my above comment. I didn't like Vogue's version of this jacket when I saw it, but your jacket has totally changed my mind. Yours is gorgeous!

Adrienne said...

Stunning!!! I can't wait to see it on you!

Ana Carina said...

Linda a jaqueta! O detalhe precioso da jaqueta são as mangas, adicionalmente os pespontos que tu destes, por isso no manequim não saem valorizadas. Mas já dá para perceber que é um modelo bem original!

Beijinhos e boas costuras!

Vicki W said...

This jacket seemed to come together really quickly. It's a great looking jacket!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

I love it Tany! It's absolutely beautifully made and I love the details. Anxious to see the pants because I also bought the pattern for the pants :)

AllisonC said...

Wow this jacket seems to have made itself! That was fast! It looks great, I love the topstitching and buttons.

MaGu.-3 said...

Tany, tu chaqueta quedo,,, preciosisisma!!!!!, el color, los botones, la terminacion, todo lindo.

Frida said...

Your's look so much more interesting than the original, good luck with the pants!

Nancy (nanflan) said...

I'm another one who bought this pattern for the pants. But you're changing my mind with your version of the jacket. Another beautiful garment!

KayB said...

So - there are 25 comments already in front of me.... what more could I say, what wasn't said before.... it's simply chic... what more to say. :-)

paco peralta said...

Tany.- lo que te digo siempre, no hay sorpresas. Me encanta el estilo de esta chaqueta. Concuerdo con algún comentario en el sentido de que la foto de Vogue Patterns no es demasiado apetecible, pues parece un modelo difícil de usar. Tu versión está fantástica y será un "hit" para la próxima temporada.

hasta pronto, Paco

Lindsay T said...

Incredible work, as always. The buttons and the topstitching just make this jacket.

cidell said...

You know, you could be a shoe buyer. You have the BEST TASTE in shoes. Lovely jacket :)

Cindy said...

It is so original! I love the topstitching and buttons.

Christina said...

The fabric, buttons, and topstitching complement each other so nicely.

Great shoes, BTW!

Celina said...

Linda. Os pespontos ficam perfeitos, a contrastar. E imagino o charme com luvas compridas... Depois põe foto, sim?

Tini said...

Formidable! I bet you look smashing in the jacket and that your vanilla and chocolate line will be a huge hit!

Vicki said...

Fabulous jacket! Looking forward to seeing the pants too. And that is the end of the vanilla and chocolate collection? Can't wait to see the outfits on you ;))

gwensews said...

Beautiful jacket. The tailoring is exquisite.

Summerset said...

Love it and those buttons are fabulous! I like the high contrast top stitching, it adds a nice sharpness to the jacket.

Dei said...

I always applaud your craftsmanship. It looks lovely!

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas!

Gracias a todos!

Thank you ladies!

Vicki: This won't be the last sewn garment of the Vanilla and Chocolate collection; I'd like to sew at least a top more (maybe a brown satin blouse and/or an ivory knit top - using the same stable knit of the Dior coat facings).

CORTEYGRIF said...

Bonita Jaketa Tany
gosto muito do detalhe na manga raglan,e o pormenor de ser curta para usar com luvas!
perfeito como sempre
bjs

Mamã Martinho said...

A jaqueta ficou espetacular! Acredito que fique muito melhor vestida que no manequim!

Bjs

Mónica

Soph said...

Hi Tany, THANKS SO MUCH!!
I bought the pattern a couple of months ago...and I've in 2 minds..
GORGEOUS WORK AS ALWAYS,
Regards
Sophie

Sensoussi said...

Hello Tany,

as all u show us, this jacket is magnificent. Finitions are so perfect!
i try to learn reading your post.

Let me have a question, i just made a jacket from Vogue V8146 in size 12 (the bigger). I thought it would give about 42 in european size, in fact it must be a 38! Size are they always the same in Vigue pattern and wich size is this jacket?
Thanks for the answer

Sorry to speak such a bad english (I'm french)

Cennetta said...

EXQUISITE!

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas!
Gracias a todos!
Thank you all!

Sensoussi: Hello, my French is really bad so I'm answering in English, I hope you are able to understand: I'm an european size 38 (by Burda's table of measurements) and I always cut a size 12 for Vogue patterns... My measurements point to a 14, but since the Vogue patterns have a lot of ease included, the 12 works better for me. Hope this helps!

Chuana said...

Excelente escolha nos botões! Tenho dificuldade em encontrar botões para os meus projectos.

A jaqueta está bastante elegante, estou ansiosa para ver a tua colecção toda e fotos com a modelo!

Bjs
Chuana

anasolicitadoria said...

ola Tany, sou profissional de moda e admiro o teu interesse por costura e tricot e aquilo que realizas!
eu realizo todo o tipo de trabalho em texril, peles, malhas etc...
Eu trabalho com maquinas industriais, mas ha ums dias uma peça da cose e corte partiu-se e vi me obrigada a adquirir uma portatil Singer 14T957Dc em segunda mao, mas nova! O problema é que nao trazia manual de instruçoes ,como vi que tinhas uma ,seria possivel digitalizar me o ,assim como o outro livro para utilizaçao complementar?
Agradecia esta tua preciosa ajuda
Anabela
o meu mail
anasolicitadoria@gmail.com