Saturday, March 14, 2009

Mais alguns detalhes: acabamento das costuras laterais- A few more details: side seam treatment

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Estou sem tempo para nada mas hoje lá consegui dar uma vista de olhos aos blogs que sigo e avançar um pouco nas calças. Espero que este seja o último artigo antes de as mostrar prontas.

Na costura por vezes os pequenos detalhes fazem a diferença. Hoje vou mostrar o tratamento das costuras e em especial a costura lateral na parte do bolso. O que tem esta costura de especial? Bem, para começar tem muitas camadas de tecido (bolsos, saco dos bolsos, presilhas), e simplesmente abri-la a ferro ia resultar num acabamento menos perfeito. Por isso é que só abri a costura a ferro dos bolsos para baixo e na parte que apanha os bolsos assentei os valores de costura para trás em vez de os abrir. As costuras foram todas rematadas com fita de viés, usando a técnica que em Inglês se chama acabamento “Hong-Kong”. No final as costuras ficaram assim:

Para conseguir este acabamento tive que golpear as margens de costura da parte da frente em viés, exactamente onde termina o bolso. A próxima foto explica melhor do que palavras:

A margem das costas é debruada juntamente com a margem da frente e os bolsos; a margem da frente é debruada só até o golpe. A margem golpeada fica segura no saco do bolso através de um pesponto. Após finalizar o acabamento, pespontei com linha castanha a lateral do bolso, de maneira a que as margens de costura fiquem permanentemente assentes para trás:


Finalmente, esta é uma foto da aplicação do vivo de rolinho (para quem não conhece este material), quando o estava a aplicar ao cós das calças:

Até à próxima e obrigada pela visita!

In spite of the shortage of time I did manage to catch up on most the blogs I read and make some (slow) progress on the pants; hopefully I’ll have them finished by tomorrow.

We all know how the little details make all the difference; today I will show you how I finished the side seams, and how I dealt with the excess bulk on the side at the pocket area. There are many layers of fabric there: the pants, pockets and tabs all overlap, so just pressing the seams open often delivers a poor result. So what I did was pressing the seams open from the pockets down and at the pocket area I simply pressed the seams towards the back. The SAs were Hong-Kong finished and this is how it looks on the inside after I’m finished with them:

To achieve this result I had to clip the front SA just where the pockets end; the next picture explains it better than words:

The back SA is bounded together with the front and pockets from the waist to the hem; the front SA is bounded from the clip down to the hem. The front SA is then tacked permanently to the pocket bags. The side seam is also topstitched down to the pocket bag end, so it will stay pressed towards the back permanently:


Finally this is a picture of the ready-made piping (some of you may not know this notion) being applied to the waistband:

See you next time and thanks for visiting!

29 comments:

Vicki W said...

Love that pocket detail!

Erica B. said...

Looking great!

KayB said...

You're right Tany, the little details make all the difference - and what a difference that is! It looks superb so far.

Mary Beth said...

Thanks for taking the time to post your progress. This is going to be just yummy Chocolate and Vanilla

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Tany, all details look so professionally done. I've said it before,your work is impeccable :)
What a great runway picture of this outfit!

Bunny said...

Beautifully detailed!

Pamela Erny said...

Divine details!

Tany...thanks for sharing your process....sometimes the finishes we think we can skip..end up making all the difference.

Meg said...

What beautiful detail, I love how cleverly you dealt with the extra bulk, unless it was pointed out to me I wouldn't have even noticed!
Can't wait to see how these look once finished.

Sew Passionista said...

You do such wonderful work. You make me want to try harder to achieve more professional results.

Adrienne said...

Looking good Tany!

Lori said...

What great looking pockets.

Frida said...

I agree, the details make all the difference, and it's those that makes the garments you make unique and just yours.

Anne e le manine d'oro said...

Your pants are getting good !!! Woaw! Your are so patient taking all those pictures, when I sew, I think only about my work and I keep forgetting to take picture. You will look so great in the outfit. I eager to see the final product on you.

Sigrid said...

Thanks especially for the detailed picture of the piping. I haven't seen it before. I will order this pattern next time I order some Vogue patterns (waiting for a sale).

Ana Carina said...

Tany,

Está a ficar lindíssimo este conjunto "Chocolate". Gosto muito do estilo das canças e o blaser é totalmente diferente do que estamos habituados a ver. Original e único!

Beijinhos e boas costuras

Vicki said...

Thanks for the tips Tany. They are looking good!

gwensews said...

Beautiful finishing. These will be absolutely gorgeous pants.

Ana's Closet said...

Consegues deixar muito trabalhos de estilista de alta costura envergonhados. Os teus acabamentos são PERFEITOS!

Beijinhos

paco peralta said...

Tany.- los detalles de este pantalón son fabulosos. Que bien que encontraste la foto del desfile, pues ahí se observa el estilo tan fantástico del traje.

Abrazos, Paco

Mamã Martinho said...

Está a ficar com acabamentos espetaculares.

Bjs

Mónica

Marie-Noëlle said...

I love all those fine details
Enchanting !
Fabuleux
Merci!

Cindy Ann said...

Very nice, Tany! Your pants are going to be fantastic. Funny, I'm working on this pants pattern too although I'm not adding piping. Having some trouble getting the back to fit well as usual.

~ Kimberlee B ~ said...

I love how you put so much time into showing your step by step construction techniques.

Summerset said...

Beautiful details, as always!

Cennetta said...

Love it! Thanks for the illustrations for making beautifully tailored details.

CORTEYGRIF said...

CONCORDO PLENAMENTE CONTIGO!!
nas costuras os detalhes fazem muita diferença,e o teu acabamento è perfeito,de alta costura pode se dizer!!
lindas as calças.
tenho um jogo no blog para ti,espero que gostes de o fazer.
besitos
ROSA

Chuana said...

Fico sempre fascinada ao ver o trabalho que estas peças dão! Mas vale a pena de certeza porque te assentam sempre que nem uma luva!
Deixei-te um prémio no blog.

Bjs
Chuana

Sheila said...

I agree little details make a difference.

berry said...

Hi Tany, I do loooooove the piping! The contrast looks wonderful. Great work and love for the details shows everywhere as always with your sewing. Congrats!
Greetings from Switzerland, berry