Sunday, August 31, 2008

A gabardina de organza – The organza trench coat

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Modelo original: Revista Burda Internacional 1/96, modelo 915:


Esta revista traz mais opções para este mesmo molde, sendo a minha favorita este casaco (reparem como um tecido diferente muda completamente o estilo do modelo):

Material: Organza de seda natural (uma oferta do Paco, gracias, querido amigo!), 6 botões de madrepérola azul-turquesa grandes, 1 mais pequeno, botões de reforço transparentes (também oferecidos pelo Paco!).

Modificações ao modelo original: A única modificação que fiz foi acrescentar os botões, e aplicar costuras francesas (também chamadas inglesas) nas costuras verticais e para as cavas usar uma técnica que consiste em aparar os valores de costura apenas das mangas e usar os valores de costura da gabardina para cobrir os da manga.

As técnicas para trabalhar com organza foram explicadas com detalhe num projecto anterior, a minha blusa vermelha de organza.

Detalhes:

O ângulo da gola e os pespontos:

Os bolsos de chapa com paleta falsa:


Os botões:

Os punhos virados:

Os botões de reforço e o botão mais pequeno que segura o trespasse por dentro:

As casas de botão feitas com o caseador automático da minha máquina:

As cavas do avesso:

A gabardina sem cinto:

Conclusão: Um projecto muito original (quem se lembraria de fazer uma gabardina de organza?), com um resultado 100% satisfatório! O facto de ter todo trabalhado num tecido transparente faz com que sejam aplicados cuidados adicionais no tratamento das costuras e nos remates. O facto de esta organza ser 100% seda facilita bastante o trabalho de costura, pois ao contrário da organza sintética, esta pode passar-se a ferro com uma temperatura alta e até usar vapor. Além disso é muito mais resistente do que a organza sintética.

Estive o fim-de-semana praticamente sem Internet, por isso só amanhã deverei começar a por as leituras dos blogs em dia! Bom, e agora é preciso começar a preparar o próximo projecto! Até breve!


Original Model: pattern n915 from Burda Internacional 1/96:


This magazine features several versions for this same pattern and my favorite is this one (note as another type of fabric makes it look as a completely different model!):

Materials: Silk organza (a gift from my dear friend Paco, gracias, querido amigo!), 6 mother-of-pearl buttons and a smaller one for the wrong side, small reinforcement buttons (these were a gift from Paco too!)

Modifications to the original model: The only alterations were adding the buttons and the seam treatment (French seams and self-bound armholes – trimming the sleeve SAs to aprox. 1/8inch and using the armhole SAs to bind the sleeve SAs)

The techniques used for sewing with silk organza were thoroughly explained on a previous project, the red organza blouse.

Details:

The notched collar and the edge topstitching which encases the SAs:

The patch pockets with false flaps:


The buttons (mother-of-pearl matching the trench color):

The turn-up cuffs:

The small reinforcement buttons and the mother-of-pearl inner button which holds the left front in place:

The buttonholes made with the automatic buttonholer:

The wrong side of the armholes:

The trench coat unbelted:

Conclusion: A very original garment (who would have thought of making an organza trench coat), with 100% satisfaction achieved! The fact of using see-through fabric is the more challenging aspect of this project, because all the extra care and time invested on the seam treatment and finishing. Using 100%silk organza makes this job easier because it can be pressed and steamed at high temperatures (as opposite to the more common synthetic organza) and the silk organza is not as easily ripped.

My internet connection was down for most of the weekend, so I haven’t been able to catch up on my blog reading; hope to do so tomorrow! Well, and now I must prepare my next project! See you soon!

64 comments:

Sew Shy said...

This is fabulous. Your seams are beautiful!

Ana'scloset said...

Está fabuloso! Desde o tecido que escolheste, aos tratamentos especiais, até aos acabamentos (perfeitos!)
Parabéns! Qual o próximo?

Beijinhos

Daisy said...

Amazingly beautiful!

Adrienne said...

Perfection Tany!!!!! Simply AMAZING!!!

Erica B. said...

Well, isn't that beautiful! Very original!

Vicki said...

Oh Tany, that is just so beautiful! You have done a fabulous job. I can see you in this with the rest of your outfit in black. Do you have plans to wear it any other way?

AllisonC said...

I never thought this would happen, but I am practically speechless! It's such an amazing coat, superb workmanship, gorgeous colour and original style. It's also great that you can use a pattern from 1996.

Teddylyn said...

This is exquisite. I am in awe!

Lynda in LV

Dana said...

Your sewing techniques and pure perfection, and choice of garments are amazingly beautiful. I hope you live and work in an environment where your talent is appreciated! Thanks for the inspiration!

Shannon said...

Gorgeous work! I love the first picture - the pairing of the light, airy organza trench with the tough, studded leather belt is very fetching - I love it!

Lisa Laree said...

Tany, this is amazing. Not just impeccably assembled, but, who would ever have considered such a thing? And it's gorgeous!! What a terrific idea,execution and inspiration!!

Sheila said...

Outstanding garment. Very pretty.

MARIA ELENA said...

EXPECTACULAR!!!!!! me encanta te quedó bellísimo, con qué otra prenda te la vas a poner?
Un abrazo

Lori said...

This is so beautiful, your work is spectacular and inspiring.

Sew4Fun said...

Fabulous Tany! Love the colour. I have very similar aqua mother of pearl buttons that I love.

Lindsay T said...

Lovely jacket and superb workmanship!

Ambitious Sewer said...

The trench coat came out beautifully!!! Compliments to you, on such a gorgeous turn out!!!

Adriana B. said...

Wow! This is mastery at its finest!

loopylulu said...

Tany, this is such a great example of your workmanship. The sheerness of the fabric really shows what a precise sewer you are. Beautiful.

madhatter said...

tany, you've outdone yourself... this is awesome!

Gry said...

Very, very beautiful.

Sue said...

Beautifully executed - also love the colours and styling...

anita said...

Tany, your trench coat is stunning! That fabric, those seams and buttonholes - WOW!

Mary Beth said...

Hot!!! Love the studded belt with it for a whole different look. Your stitching is so perfect it inspires.

mamamartinho said...

Mágnifica!
Realmente nunca me passou pela ideia fazer um gabardine em sede transparente, mas fica muito bem para este tempo mais quente.

Bjs

Mónica

KayB said...

Great work, Tany. Again, this is beautiful craftsmanship. Gorgeous!

Amanda S. said...

I LOVE it!!! Great job, as always. Beautiful color also.

Ana Carina said...

Tany,

Esta LINDA a gabardine! É mesmo impensável uma gabardine de organza mas qualquer mulher deve ter uma! Muito fashion!

Fica muito bem o cinto "Sex and the City" na gabardine e até acaba por contrastar os estilos.

Ficou mesmo linda e os acabamentos...PERFEITOS!

Beijinhos

Elaray said...

Simply amazing!

Nancy K said...

Beautiful and gorgeously constructed.
Love the color too.

Miss Sewing said...

Hola Tany,
me encanta la gabardina. Muy elegante, con un color muy alegre.
Los detalle del pespunte y los puños perfectos.

Un saludo

ANA

Chuana said...

Olá Tany,

está liiiiiiiiiinda! Não tenhas cuidado não, se algum dia passares por mim com ela vestida ficas sem ela, estou na brincadeira, adorei mesmo, muito bonita!

Bjs
Chuana

Celina said...

Quanta perfeição!! Sendo o tecido transparente, tiveste de ter um cuidado imenso nas costuras e nos pormenores, não dá para facilitar do lado do avesso porque está tudo à vista! Assombroso!
Quanto à peça em si, é super original (algumas ideias para vestir?) e ficou linda, gosto muito da cor. O teu closet está recheado de peças fabulosas!

The Feed Dog.com said...

It makes me so happy to see someone who is not afraid to use the most beautiful fabrics and advanced techniques! This is one of the loveliest garments I've ever seen. Bravo!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Tany this is absolutely beautiful! Who would of thought is right, but you made it work! It is pure perfection! I'm sure Paco would have known this colour would look amazing on you :)

nowaks nähkästchen said...

Everytime I think I have seen all you can do you surprise me with something even better! This is so cool and so well done. I bow in admiration!

Celeste said...

Tany, every time I think you can't achieve anything more beautiful than you have, you prove me wrong. This is so amazingly beautiful...the only thing it needs is for you to wear it! Thank you so much for sharing. And Paco, thank you for providing inspiration and raw materials.

Lisette M said...

Just beautiful Tany! Would love to see how you are going to wear it.

AnnR said...

Very, very clever Tany. Congratulations!

Jackie said...

This is just gorgeous!

Anonymous said...

This is soooo beautiful, I am at a loss for words! I almost fell off my chair when I saw it. You are a master seamstress!

Heather

paco peralta said...

Tany.- te quedó fantástica. enhorabuena. Observo que hay muchas "admiradoras" del color, lo que me alegra. Una vez terminada la prenda, incluso se vé más bonito con el juego de transparencias. Abrazos, Paco

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany - this is simply stunning!!!!

Beth said...

Chiquérezima! Maravilhosa!
Como sempre. Parabéns!
Bjs

LauraLo said...

My dearest Tany, I'm speechless! This is so gorgeous and so impeccably done! Chapeau to you!

Sheri said...

Tany, your blog never disappoints. I learn something new everytime I read. Thank you for taking the time to show us all of the details. This coat in such an unexpected fabric is simply gorgeous!

Summerset said...

Just gorgeous and so well finished! I would have done the same finish at the armholes to finish the seam allowances.

I love the other version of the coat, too. I'm just about ready to trace and cut a jacket from houndstooth fabric.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Oh my goodness, that is jaw-dropping!!!! Wow. Very Louis Vuitton but in a wearable way. That is sensational.

Cindy said...

What else can be said? It's just gorgeous!

Cennetta said...

Tany, Absolutely superb! You are a outstanding designer.

peacockchic said...

what a fabulous creation! I was enamored with the idea of the organza jacket when I saw it in Burda and I love it so much more here. Great job! Love it! Do we get to see it paired with an outfit? I hope so!

CORTEYGRIF said...

Quem se lembraria de fazer uma gabardine em Organza,pois sò mesmo tu,ideia chique!!
ficou lindamente Tany,e a cor jà sabes adoro azul!
Parabens ao Paco pelo tecido,para pudermos ver essa maravilha trabalho,com a trabalheira que tiveste ja estàs a pensar no proximo projecto,uma mulher de armas.
besitos
Rosa

Anynha Crochê said...

Olá Amiga

Lindo seu trabalho, parabéns

Desejo a vc uma boa noite

Bjuss

Ana Lucia

Patti Best said...

What a beautiful job you have done Tany. Bravo!!

Patti

Sismada said...

Obrigada por tentares ajudar, eu na verdade até estou com medo de começar :)
É uma escola de dança desde clássica a moderno, sapateado americano etc e dos 3 aos 16-17 anos... É super motivante mas no inicio do ano andei a fazer uns fatos e nem tempo tinha para vir aqui, so tenho pena de não ter tirado fotos... Mas hei de arranjar :) beijinhos e mil vezes obrigada

Claudia said...

Dear Tany,
what can I say what isn´t already
been said?
It looks so fragile and delicate. And stylish! Perfect for the evening! Perfect with jeans!
And it is sewn in the tany-way: more than perfect!
With best regards
Claudia

Nancy K said...

Gorgeous! A level of sewing to aspire to.

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas pelos comentários elogiosos!
Thank you all for the wonderful comments!
Gracias a todos por estos maravillosos comentarios!

I'd like to give a warm welcome to Patty Best, Celeste and The Feed Dog.com (hope I didn't miss any od the new commenters)!

Tany said...

A warm welcome to Dana too! Sorry I missed you the first time!

Tany said...

And a big welcome to Daisy and Sew Shy too!

Anne e le manine d'oro said...

This is a gorgeous jacket !!!!!!!!! Fantastic ! People will stop you on the street to tell you how gorgeous your jacket is.

Vicki W said...

Tany, it's stunning! I would love to see the looks as you walk down the street in that. People will be following you around to get a closer look. The stitching detail, especially on that collar, is exquisite.

Tany said...

Anne e Le Manine d'Oro: Thank you and welcome to Couture et Tricot!

Thanks Vicki W!

Christina said...

This is too chic! I especially like the picture of you wearing the organza trench with the printed dress. Well done!