Sunday, July 6, 2008

Vestido Burda Fevereiro 2008 mod103B - BWOF Feb2008mod103B

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English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Modelo original, clicar aqui;

Este vestido deu-me a oportunidade de testar uma fita de entretela própria para reforçar as costuras que o Paco me enviou junto com outras coisas (Obrigada Paco!):


Como podem ver a entretela termo-colante é cortada em viés e tem um ponto de cadeia, que depois de colada deve coincidir com a linha de costura; 4mm ficam para o lado da peça e 8mm para o lado da margem. Como a tira está cortada em viés, ajusta-se perfeitamente às curvas (esta é a entretela aconselhada nas instruções da Burda para reforçar os decotes e as cavas nos tecidos de malha). Gostei muito do resultado obtido.

Uma das coisas que faz mais confusão nesse modelo é a forma como é conseguido o efeito na frente; mais uma vez vou mostrar o que devem obter, para perceberem melhor como se faz. Depois de coser as saias da frente ao corpo, a ponta onde têm a abertura rematada e as pregas deve ficar fora da costura:

Além disso, também se deixa uma abertura na costura, por onde mais tarde vamos passar a ponta que ficou de fora:

Na próxima foto podem ver o drapeado direito alinhavado no sítio e a abertura por onde vai passar o drapeado esquerdo (atenção que o drapeado não é simétrico, tenham atenção aos números nas costuras laterais – ver o desenho técnico mais abaixo - para não colocarem o drapeado invertido):

Depois de colocar o drapeado esquerdo (passando pelo buraco, cosendo a costura entre os sinais nº3 e alinhavando os lados juntamente com os lados da frente), a ponta solta com as pregas passa por dentro do buraco do drapeado esquerdo e pelo buraco na costura que deixámos anteriormente; a costura é completamente fechada, prendendo a ponta com as pregas:

Podem ver aqui como fica:

E para perceberem melhor, têm aqui o desenho técnico e a versão em tecido liso:

Conclusão: Um vestido muito bonito e elegante, com um feitio na frente que pode ser difícil de perceber como se faz; espero que as minhas fotos ajudem quem se sentir um pouco perdido com as instruções! Fiquem bem!


For the original model, click here:

This dress provided the perfect opportunity to try out the new interfacing bias tape that Paco sent me, along with other goodies (Muchas gracias, Paco!):


The interfacing tape is cut on the bias and has a chainstitch, which should match the seam line; it should be fused so that 8mm stay on the SA side and 4mm stay on the other side. It is cut on the bias and this makes it easier to shape on curved seams (This is the interfacing tape that BWOF recommends for reinforcing necklines and armholes on their jersey models). I really liked the end result!

The construction of the “twist” on the front may be confusing to some of you so I’m showing what you should be getting as a result and hopefully this will help figuring out the whole procedure. After joining the front skirts to the bodice, the pleated end/opening should be left out of the resulting seam (This is the pleated edge of the right front skirt – your right when you’re wearing the dress):

Besides, when stitching the horizontal seam that joins the bodice to the skirt, there’s also a section to be left open; later you’ll insert the pleated end corner through this opening:

Next you can observe the right draped section ready and basted along the dress side and its opening where later you’ll insert the left draped section (mind the numbers to be matched on the side seams – see the line drawing below - or you can end up with the draped section placed upside down!):

The center seam on the left draped section is stitched AFTER slipping one end through the opening on the right section (stitching from the 3 sign to the opening notch) and the sides are basted together as done on the right; then the pleated corner end from the right skirt panel is inserted through the resulting opening on the left draped section and through the previously left open section on the horizontal seam; this section is stitched on the wrong side, catching the pleated corner in the seam:

This is a close-up of the end result:

And here is the technical drawing next to the solid jersey version so you can understand this better:

Conclusion: A pretty and elegant dress, with interesting style lines; the instructions to accomplish this nice effect can be confusing so I hope my pictures will help making sense out of them! Have fun sewing, guys!

41 comments:

KayB said...

Oh Tany, another gorgeous dress. And you know how I love those kind of swirly patterns.... makes me get palpitation of the heart.... almost....

Ana'scloset said...

Uau Tany! a tua versão ficou fantástica! Eu realmente tb tive muitos problemas com o drapeado... mas lá consegui resolver o problema!

Beijinhos

Els said...

Lovely dress, the bias seam tape is also available in grey. It works great on armholes for stability.

renee cidell said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Vicki W said...

Lovely dress Tany! As always!

Adrienne said...

I love this Tany! The fabric is gorgeous!!! You are making me want to add this one to my ever-growing list lol

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Wow! I love the color and the print...another awesome dress!

paco peralta said...

Tany, pues si que es bonito este vestido. El drapeado es fantástico e incluso podría ir bien para un vestido de noche en color oscuro, lo imaginas?. Ahhh. por cierto, las cintas parece que funcionan bien así que voy a probarlas de inmediato en el patrón de Donna Karan. Gracias por mostrar el proceso. Abrazos, Paco

Erica B. said...

Just beautiful Tany! That fabric is incredible!

Lori said...

Tany, wonderful dress and it looks fantastic on you.

Anonymous said...

Fabulous dress! The style and print is very flattering on you.

Angie R.

Sigrid said...

Beautiful! Love the twist variety.

Sewfast said...

Very Lovely Tany! I just bought some fabric with this dress in mind, so your tips will surely help. Thanks...Mary

toy said...

beatiful dress, I love this one when I got the february issue but I was worried about the fit of the dress, I may revisit it for the fall so thanks for the review

Jackie said...

I just love the fabric you used!! And of course, you look lovely in it!!

Pajnstl said...

That print is soo pretty!

AllisonC said...

Ooh I've been waiting to see this dress made up in real life. It looks gorgeous.

007gurl said...

Tany,

I love the fabric you chose. The dress is fabulous!!!!!

LauraLo said...

My friend, we must be telepathic. I just traced this pattern and wanted to cut the fabric last evening but didn't have the time. It's a gorgeous dress, you look beautiful in it!

Vonne said...

Tany, i love this design and you have made it so fabulous !

Ana Carina said...

Tany,

Lindíssimo este vestido, principalmente as cores! São magníficas!

Beijinhos

Christina said...

Another winner! Thanks for the info on the interfacing tape - that reminds me, my local fabric store has similar, bias cut interfacing tape, it's imported from Japan, I'll have to try it out one of these days.

Mamã Martinho said...

Tu és uma autentica máquina!
Tenho tido pouco tempo para fzer o que seja, inclusivé o de vir aqui ver o teu blog, mas já esperava que tivesses algo para mostrar!
O vestido ficou bem giro. O feitio da frente é engraçado, mas não se nota muito com o estampado. O que interessa é que gostas-te e que te assenta muito bem. Agora vou cuscar qual o teu novo projecto!


Bjs

Mónica

Alexandra said...

Oh, how gorgeous! I love that neckline and the twist. Hmm... I wonder if Burda sells back issues - I am in love with that pattern.
You always use the latest, coolest patterns and TDF fabrics! I want to be like you when I grow up.

Summerset said...

Nice - the print is perfect for that pattern and swirls around the body nicely! Perfect!

melissa said...

thanks SO much for all these photos and diagrams! I'm sewing this one up later in the month and this'll be a big help!

CORTEYGRIF said...

Eu que nao sou f@ do verde
adorei este tecido e o modelo lindissimo Tany,e fica te uma belleza.
obrigada pelas tuas explicaçoes sempre tao nitidas.
Concordo plenamente com as tuas palavras e sei como è complicado,a amizade realmente da nos imensa força.
um abraço querida
bjs
ROSA

Lisette M said...

Otro precioso vestido. Me encanta la tela que escogiste. Voy a agregar este patron a mi lista.

berry said...

Hi Tany, this dress looks gorgeous on you and you just found the right print for it! I also use very often the interfacing tape - I like working with it.
Greetings from berry (CH)

Isabelle said...

What a beautiful and stylish dress, Tany... It looks great on you.
Now I want to make this dress as well! I probably won't have the time, though...
The interfacing tape is fantastic.
Hugs to you!

Sismada said...

Hello Tany!
Bem estas fitas de entretela em biais não as encontro no mercado :(
Pois aqui na zona pelo menos...
Na fábrica onde trabalhei de casacos era super utilisada nas cavas, decotes, ...
Que maravilhoso o Paco!
Bjs

Audrey said...

Olá amiga, adorei o seu vestido e você achou uma estampa muito parecida com o original parabéns.
Bjs.

Cennetta said...

Cute dress and very flattering.

Ambitious Sewer said...

The dress is very beautiful and the print is fun and energetic...

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Honestly Tany, "everything" you make is a winner :) You are so productive and constantly produce beautiful garments! This dress looks fantastic on you.

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas! Thank you all!

I'd like to welcome Ambitious Sewer, Melissa, Pajnstl and Sewfast to Couture et Tricot!

Vicki said...

Tany, the dress looks fabulous in that print! Very nice!!

Marji said...

I think I'm going to pull that pattern out and make it, based upon how well yours turned out.
That bias tape looks really interesting, I've never seen anything like it. We have a fusible bias tape available, but there is no chain stitch in it.

Linda said...

Wow, I love this dress! I really like the fabric you chose. It is gorgeous. I like this dress more and more everytime I see someone make it.

Adriana B. said...

Love the dress!

Tany said...

Thank you Adriana B. and welcome to Couture et Tricot!