Sunday, March 9, 2008

A flor e o drapeado - The flower and the draping

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)
Até agora tudo bem e só falta fixar os drapeados a intervalos regulares com pequenos pontos escondidos. Como sei que há alguma expectativa em relação a este modelo, resolvi deixar-vos dar uma espreitadela antes de o acabar (as imagens foram clareadas para mostrar melhor os detalhes):



Adoraria mostrar o molde da frente direita, de onde sai a flor como parte integrante da peça da frente, mas por motivos de copyright não posso (para esclarecer algumas dúvidas da Ana Carina). No entanto penso que posso tentar desenhar o molde e postar o meu desenho; vou fazer isso no post final. Entretanto tenho fotos da flor antes de ser enrolada (começa-se a enrolar da ponta e, ao mesmo tempo fixa-se a base – lado franzido - com pontos à mão utilizando torçal):

Editado posteriormente: Talvez mostre a parte da frente do molde; afinal penso que não tem mal nenhum mostrar apenas o esquema e até poderei ajudar a Vogue a vender mais moldes!
A tira que vai constituir a flor faz parte da frente que também se estenda nas costas para formar o drapeado do decote atrás:
Aqui uma imagem do início da tira nas costas e da extensão para o drapeado; estou a levantar o drapeado para que possam ver o remate com a fita que usai para as costuras:
E é tudo por hoje! Mais detalhes se seguirão, mostrando a aplicação de elástico ao longo do decote por dentro para evitar que os ombros caiam, o fecho com colchetes na frente e as bainhas debruadas. Até à próxima!


So far so good and all there is to do to finish the jacket is tack the pleats in place at some strategically places with invisible hand stitches. I know you are anxious to see this model come true so I’m giving you this preview before the jacket is completed (the images were brightened so the details show more clearly):



I’d love to show you the right front pattern schematic but I cannot do that because of the copyright issues (Ana Carina was intrigued by this pattern and how the flower would come out of it). On the other hand, I think I can sketch this pattern myself and show you my drawing, so I’ll do that in the final post. In the meanwhile, here are some shots taken before constructing (rolling) the flower (I started rolling it from the point to the base, using buttonhole thread to tack its gathered edge together and to the jacket’s front:

ETA: Maybe I'll post the picture of the pattern afterall; I think there is no harm in this and it will help the people interested in purchasing this pattern.
The fabric extension that makes the flower is part of the right front, which also extends to the center back as the neckline draping you saw in the previous pictures:
Here you can see the back when I rise the back draping; the lower edge is finished with the thin seam binding.
And that’s all for today! More details will follow, showing you the elastic casing on the back and shoulders, the front closure and the bias bound hems. See you!

28 comments:

Adrienne said...

TANY! Gorgeous! But I honestly don't expect anything less!!!

Zoubida said...

This top is going to be one exceptional piece of your wardrobe! The flower is indeed very intriguing, I can't wait for your sketches.
Tany, when do you take time to sew? Do you do that in week-ends or a little bit every night? I know you work and you are sooo prolific at sewing too. I'd love to know how you do it. Thank you.

Maja said...

Oh wow, Tany! I'm impressed! Absolutely stunning!

toya said...

I would see that flower design detail and run for the hills, you make it seem so easy, lol
this is absolutely some stunning hand work

Ana Carina said...

Tany,
Realmente estou muito curiosa para ver como é a "forma" do molde.
Para mim, a flor formada pelos drapeados são o pormenor de Alta Costura! Lindíssimo mesmo!
Fico anciosamente a aguardar os próximos post!

Beijinhos.

Rose said...

Beautiful! Beautiful! thank you for sharing! :) I'm so impressed with your work, as well as your wonderful documentation of the sewing process!

Berry said...

It is beau-ti-ful. The whole neckline is very flattering and that flower gorgeous!!!

Erica B. said...

Tany,
That jacket looks like a piece of artwork! Magnificent!

Audrey said...

Oi amiga, vejo que está bem adiantada nas costuras e olha sem sombra de dúvidas você vai arrasar neste casamento.
E depois põe uma fotinha vestida pra gente ver heim.....
Mil beijos,
Audrey

paco peralta said...

Oh Tany..es precioso este cuerpo. y la tela que has elegido es muy parecida al modelo de Donna Karan, un buen acierto. Un fuerte abrazo para tí. Paco

Lori said...

Tany, this is one gorgeous top.

Nina said...

ohhhh this is going to be an gorgeous dress. But you know, the bride has to be the beauty ;-)

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

That is one amazing top filled with some awesome work! I am waiting with baited breathe for the rest of the ensemble.

Vicki said...

Wow, it is looking really good. I wonder how anyone could draft such a pattern? It certainly is not the usual run of the mill design. Bravo to you for having a go at making it!

rosa said...

LINDO LINDO TANY
AGORA DA PRA VER OS DETALHES,FANTASTICO AMEI ESTE MODELO,UM DIA SE ARRANJAR TEMPO FAREI,ACHO QUE FICAREI BEM COM ESSA ROSA LINDA!!!
BEM SOU MAIS UMA FÃ QUE FICA ANSIOSA POR VER O RESULTADO.
BOA SEMANA AMIGA
BJS
ROSA

Katrin said...

Tany,
this is so beautiful: Can´t wait to see how you drafted the flower.

Regards,
Katrin

Isabelle said...

Thank you for showing us all these details, dear Tany! This is such a brilliant piece of sewing engineering. This is so much your style and you are going to be the most beautiful guest at the wedding!

I almost ordered this pattern after we talked about it in Paris... In the end I decided against it (for now, that is!), because I don't like to pile on patterns which I do not have the time or occasion to sew (it makes me feel both guilty and frustrated). I have enough Vogue patterns to keep me busy this year!
Besides, if/when I do have an opportunity to wear such a beautiful and distinctive garment, I'll make the beautiful Galaxy dress first :) Maybe this will be my reward after I have finished my thesis, this summer! :)

My, I have written quite a novel :)

Take care, my dear friend. Bon courage pour tout ! Big hugs and gros bisous :)

mamamartinho said...

O modelo está a ficar mesmo giro! O casaco tem uma forma completamente invulgar, mas que te deve assentar que nem uma luva. A for, vai dar sem duvida algum trabalho, mas acho que no fim vale bem a pena.

Bjs

Mónica

Summerset said...

Just gorgeous! I've thought about making this up in red, but I'm not so sure about how wide the shoulders would be. I'll have to see how yours turn out!

Marji said...

I read a blog post or so ago that this jacket/top was "coming along slowly"...and I thought, hmm, probably it'll be done next week.
You are amazing woman. That is fabulous.

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas!
Thank you all!
Muchas gracias Paco!

Zoubida Thank you! I take time to sew whenever I can; most week days I come back late from work and I have only 1-2 hours to sew in the evening... Sometimes I'm so tired that I don't sew at all. But during the weekend, especially in the morning, I make the most of my time. Believe me, if I was to stay at home instead of going to work everyday, I would have 3 new garments a week to show you! I make lots of sacrifices to be able to sew; I don't go out much (but I do take vacation time whenever I can) and my house is always a mess. Plus I don't have children to take care of. Basically sewing is part of my daily routine. The only time I wasn't able to sew was while I was taking my university degree because I was studying and working at the same time and sewing moved down in my list of priorities then.

Rose: Thank you so much and welcome to Couture et Tricot!

Rosa: Se vestires o mesmo nº que eu, posso enviar-te o molde que tracei para mim! Mesmo que não seja o teu número, deves conseguir escala-lo com facilidade! Depois me dirás quando vires o fato pronto!

Isabelle I'm always so glad to hear from you! This pattern is indeed beautiful and special; when and if you decide to make this suit you can also skip the flower if you think it will overcome your petite figure. All there is to it is using the left front pattern and closure for both fronts. Big and warm HUGS to you, my dear friend!

Summerset: Thank you! I think the shoulders are not too wide but the flower is overwhelming. For a petite figure I would skip the flower or make it smaller (I think it could be accomplished quite easily), perhaps half its actual size. This pattern is brilliant! I could see the top used on a dress, for example. The construction is not difficult, but should be a thorough process. I didn't thread trace the outlines but I thread traced the pleats and all the markings. This is the kind of project you'd find gratifying!

Marji It is coming along slowly! I won't be able to finish all the hand stitching securing the drape in place until next weekend, when I'll be able to work with natural light! Hand stitching black fabric without natural light is something my eyes don't allow me to do!

doracouture said...

Tany e un modello molto bello,e sta prendendo forma.non lo so se questo pattern si aquista on line?Buon lavoro!Un abbraccio Dora!

Tany said...

Grazie Dora! Questo modello è il "Vogue 2920" e è possibile ordinare online qui: http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2920.htm?tab=designer_sportswear_br_suits_coats_jackets&page=4

Un abbraccio!

Zoubida said...

Thank you Tany for your answer. You are passionate about sewing, that's your secret I think.

Nancy W. said...

Amazing - you always do such awesome work.

LauraLo said...

You literally took my breathe away with this!

Sheila said...

Awesome!

LMH said...

Hmm, how interesting to finally see the garment for real and up close. I could never get a sense from the pattern of what it really looked like (I never saw the movie; maybe I should?). This looks like it was a very intriguing piece to put together? Lots of novel draping, etc. It looks good!