Thursday, January 31, 2008

Referências para Alfaiataria (Parte 2) - References on Tailoring (Part 2)

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English

Desta vez vou falar de alguns livros que, apesar de não serem dedicados à alfaiataria, endereçam este assunto em alguns dos seus capítulos e algumas outras fontes de interesse sobre este assunto.

O primeiro livro é “Couture Sewing Techniques”, de Claire Shaeffer:

Este livro é um tesouro; aborda técnicas de Alta-costura e analisa exemplos da aplicação destas técnicas em peças reais, sendo muito bem ilustrado com fotos e esquemas. Na minha opinião é um livro indispensável. Os capítulos que podem servir como referência para alfaiataria (métodos tradicionais aplicados em Alta-costura) são:

Capítulo 8: Sleeves (informação em como aplicar uma manga de alfaiate de duas peças)
Capítulo 9: Pockets (informação sobre a confecção de bolsos, incluindo os bolsos normalmente usados em fatos de alfaiate)
Capítulo 10: Jackets and Coats (bases da alfaiataria, peça de prova, prova e ajustes, entretelar, confecção do forro, etc.)

The Zapp Method of Couture Sewing (de Anna Zapp)

Contém um capítulo sobre alfaiataria com entretelas fusíveis. A autora demonstra a confecção de uma jaqueta estilo alfaiate do início até ao fim, com fotografias a cores óptimas. Outro capítulo interessante é sobre como tirar as medidas e compará-las com as medidas do molde, ajustando-o antes de o provar. Uma abordagem muito metódica e cuidada.

Power Sewing Step by Step (de Sandra Betzina)

O capítulo 6 deste livro trata de jaquetas e aí podem encontrar uma série de artigos, cada um com sugestões e dicas para abordar vários aspectos. Começa por abordar a construção de uma jaqueta com tecido aos quadrados/xadrez, a estrutura básica de uma jaqueta, escolha de entretelas e dicas para a sua aplicação, a preparação das entretelas fusíveis, carcelas de botões, costuras princesa, dar forma a colarinhos, estabelecer linhas de dobra nos colarinhos e lapelas, dar forma e coser as lapelas, forros de empastar de flanela, diversos tipos de bolsos, vivos de cordão decorativos, forros parciais, aplicação das vistas na frente, vistas Hong-Kong, preparação da parte de cima da gola, dar forma às cavas, aplicação das mangas em tecidos difíceis, aberturas laterais nas mangas, punhos virados, bainhas, aplicação de forro (método industrial), diversos tipos de casas de botão, bainhas compensadas com pesos.

Singer Sewing Book – The Complete Guide to Sewing with Metric Measurements

Um livro que definitivamente vale a pena ter. Contém algumas fotos a cores mas as técnicas são explicadas recorrendo a desenhos. Contém um capítulo sobre alfaiataria tradicional, que além das técnicas usuais inclui casacos compridos e algumas técnicas adicionais, como golas de rebuço com entalhe, reforçar a costura do decote atrás, reforçar as cavas debaixo do braço, debruados nas orlas, pespontos decorativos, moscas e barras de reforço.

The Complete Book of Sewing by Dorling Kinderslay

Este livro é óptimo para quem aprende mais à base de imagens porque todas as técnicas são acompanhadas de fotos a cores seguindo uma ordem passo-a-passo, sendo cada foto acompanhada por explicações sucintas e directas. Também contém um capítulo sobre alfaiataria tradicional. Contém também informação sobre confecção de alfaiate de cós para saias e calças. O livro em si é uma óptima referência ilustrada.

O Grande Livro da Costura (edição Portuguesa Vintage)

Para mim uma das melhores referências básicas, com o bónus extra de existir uma edição Portuguesa. É um livro que hoje em dia só se encontra à venda em feiras e lojas de livros usados, mas no EBay existem muitas ofertas de venda da edição em Inglês a preços muito baixos, a maioria com entrega internacional. Contém um capítulo sobre alfaiataria tradicional.

Techniques of Dressmaking and Soft Tailoring (de E. Lucy Towers)

É a sequela do livro “Standard Processes in Dressmaking” e trata de métodos mais avançados, incluindo técnicas de alfaiataria adaptadas ao vestuário feminino. Gosto bastante deste livro pois lida essencialmente com pequenos pormenores que fazem a diferença. Vai além do básico e aborda alguns assuntos difíceis de encontrar nas referências básicas.

E agora alguns links úteis:

Um guia para a confecção de uma jaqueta (método industrial) – Paco Peralta
http://pacoperaltarovira.blogspot.com/2008/01/chaqueta-confeccin-industrial.html

Artigos do blog Fashion Incubator:

Bagging Tutorial #1: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/22692_bagging_tutorial_1.html
Bagging Tutorial #2: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/22692_bagging_tutorial_2.html

The nameless tutorial series (acabamento do canto inferior do casaco, intersecção da bainha com o forro e vista):
#1 - http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/name_this_tutorial.html
#2 - http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/nameless_tutorial_2.html
#3 - http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/nameless_tutorial_3.html
#4 - http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/nameless_tutorial_4.html
#5 - http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/nameless_5_back_vent.html

Artigo da Laura (Laura’s Sewing Room) – Learning from RTW: deconstructing a jacket
http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2007/09/learning-from-rtw-deconstructing-jacket.html

Artigo da Lisa (Blackwaterpark) sobre como fazer chumaços:
http://blackwaterpark.blogs.com/blackwater_park/2006/11/i_should_be_wor.html

Posts da Dawn sobre a confecção de uma jaqueta de alfaiate:
Vogue Jacket Sleeves
http://www.mysecretpocket.com/2007/10/vogue-jacket-sleeves.html
Vogue Jacket Buttonholes
http://www.mysecretpocket.com/2007/09/vogue-jacket-buttonholes.html
Vogue Jacket Collarhttp://www.mysecretpocket.com/2007/09/vogue-jacket-collar.html
Vogue Jacket and Pressing Board
http://www.mysecretpocket.com/2007/09/vogue-jacket-and-pressing-board.html

Livro online baseado no livro da Singer, link para o capítulo de alfaiataria:
http://www.freesewingpattern.net/freesewingpattern21.php

VintageSewingInfo, livros vintage online sobre alfaiataria:
http://vintagesewing.info/category.html#tailoring

Artigos online da revista Threads:
Armani Jackets, the Inside Story:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00148.asp
Bag your jacket lining
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00034.asp
A handy chart of fusible interfacings
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00200.asp
To get the Right Armhole, Fit the Bodice:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00228.asp
On fitting sleeves:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00223.asp

Factsheets de um curso universitário:
http://www.ca.uky.edu/hes/fcs/FACTSHTS/CT-LMH.176.pdf

Também tenho alguns moldes Vogue da Colecção Couture da Claire Shaeffer que contêm explicações detalhadas para ambos os métodos tradicional e contemporâneo, constituindo por si só óptimas referências. Os moldes que tenho são os seguintes:
V8428
V8259
Espero que esta informação seja útil!

This time I will address some more books that have relevant content on the subject of tailoring and also a few web links that provide excellent reference material.

The first book is “Couture Sewing Techniques”, by Claire Shaeffer:


This book is a treasure; it features Haute Couture techniques and analyzes several real examples of these techniques, illustrating them with fabulous pictures and line drawings. In my opinion this is a must have book. Chapters on tailoring (applied in Haute Couture) are:

Chapter 8: Sleeves (Two-piece tailored sleeve)
Chapter 9: Pockets (several types of tailored pockets)
Chapter 10: Jackets and Coats (tailoring basics, test garment, fitting, alterations, interfacing, linings, etc.)

The Zapp Method of Couture Sewing (by Anna Zapp)


It contains a chapter dedicated to tailoring using fusible interfacings. The author demonstrates the entire construction process of a tailored jacket, illustrating each step and techniques with great colored pictures. Another chapter worth mentioning is the one on taking accurate body measurements and comparing them to the patterns measurements, customizing the pattern for a better fit before even cutting the garment or making a test garment.

Power Sewing Step by Step by Sandra Betzina

Chapter 6 deals with jacket construction and there you can find a multitude of articles, each one containing valuable suggestions and tips for every main stage of construction. The list of articles are: Perfect Plaids, Jacket Structure, Interfacing Choices, Interface like the pros, Fusible Interfacing Preparation, Buttonhole Placket, Professional Princess Seams, Neckline Shaping, Roll-line Memory, Shape-and-Stitch Lapels, Flannel Underlining, Bagged Patch Pocket, Paper Bag Pocket, Side-Seam Pocket, Welt Pocket with Flap, Decorative Piping for a Welt Pocket, Fronts-only Half Lining, Attaching a Front Facing, Hong Kong Facing, Upper Collar Contouring, Underarm Shaping, Smooth Sleeve caps in Difficult Fabric, Fearless Sleeve vents, Turned-back Cuff, Facing for a Hem, Visual Guide for Bagging a Lining, Better Buttonholes, Corded Buttonholes and Weighted Hem.

Singer Sewing Book – The Complete Guide to Sewing with Metric Measurements

This is a must have in my opinion. It contains a few color pictures but it uses line drawings for explaining the techniques. It features one chapter on Tailoring (traditional methods) that, besides the usual tailoring techniques on jackets also includes information on tailoring coats and a few additional techniques, like notched shawl collars, stay neckline seam, stay armhole seam at underarm, tailored bindings, binding straight edges or curves, bind a square corner, top stitching, arrowheads, crow’s feet and bar tacks.

The Complete Book of Sewing by Dorling Kinderslay


This one is great for visual learners; all the techniques are well illustrated by color pictures, following a step-by-step sequence, accompanied with straight forward explanations. It also features a chapter on Bespoke tailoring and contains some information on tailored waistbands (skirts and pants). This book is an excellent illustrated basic reference on sewing techniques.

The reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing (Portuguese Vintage edition)

This is one of the best basic references out there. The Portuguese edition is very hard to find, only available on used book stores but there are several English editions on EBay at great prices, most of them providing international deliveries. It contains an chapter on traditional tailoring.

Techniques of Dressmaking and Soft Tailoring (de E. Lucy Towers)

This is the sequel to the book “Standard Processes in Dressmaking” and addresses some advanced techniques, including tailoring techniques applied to women’s garments. I really like this book because it deals with little details that make all the difference. It goes beyond the basics into some techniques hard to find in any other books.

A few usefull links:

A guide for the making of a jacket (industrial method) – Paco Peralta
http://pacoperaltarovira.blogspot.com/2008/01/chaqueta-confeccin-industrial.html

Relevant articles from Fashion Incubator:

Bagging Tutorial #1:
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/22692_bagging_tutorial_1.html
Bagging Tutorial #2:
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/22692_bagging_tutorial_2.html

The nameless tutorial series (finishing the facing/lining/hem intersection at the front corner):
#1 -
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/name_this_tutorial.html
#2 -
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/nameless_tutorial_2.html
#3 -
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/nameless_tutorial_3.html
#4 -
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/nameless_tutorial_4.html
#5 -
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/nameless_5_back_vent.html

Artcle by Laura (Laura’s Sewing Room) – Learning from RTW: deconstructing a jacket
http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2007/09/learning-from-rtw-deconstructing-jacket.html

Artcle by Lisa (Blackwaterpark) on custom made shoulderpads:
http://blackwaterpark.blogs.com/blackwater_park/2006/11/i_should_be_wor.html

Artcles by Dawn about the making of a tailored jacket:
Vogue Jacket Sleeves
http://www.mysecretpocket.com/2007/10/vogue-jacket-sleeves.html
Vogue Jacket Buttonholes
http://www.mysecretpocket.com/2007/09/vogue-jacket-buttonholes.html
Vogue Jacket Collar
http://www.mysecretpocket.com/2007/09/vogue-jacket-collar.html
Vogue Jacket and Pressing Board
http://www.mysecretpocket.com/2007/09/vogue-jacket-and-pressing-board.html

Online book based on the Singer book, link to the tailoring chapter:
http://www.freesewingpattern.net/freesewingpattern21.php

VintageSewingInfo, vintage online books on tailoring:
http://vintagesewing.info/category.html#tailoring

Online Threads articles:
Armani Jackets, the Inside Story:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00148.asp
Bag your jacket lining
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00034.asp
A handy chart of fusible interfacings
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00200.asp
To get the Right Armhole, Fit the Bodice:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00228.asp
On fitting sleeves:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00223.asp

Factsheets from University of Kentucky:
http://www.ca.uky.edu/hes/fcs/FACTSHTS/CT-LMH.176.pdf

I also own a few Vogue Claire Shaeffer’s Couture Collection patterns that contain excellent detailed instructions on both traditional and contemporary methods; these are excellent references.
V8428
V8259
I hope some of you will find this infornation useful!

22 comments:

berry said...

Hi Tany, thank you sooooo much for your interesting references and the link-collection! So no more excuses for poor sewing-results... ;)
Greetings from berry (of Switzerland)

Vicki said...

Thay thankyou!! I actually have the first 3 books you mention and have not referred to them recently. I must go back and have a look. I also have a few of Claire's patterns.

cidell said...

That Reader's Digest is what I used to learn how to sew! Thanks for putting all these links together!

Mimi said...

Thanks for all the info, you are fantastic :)

www.domestichaven.wordpress.com

Angie R. said...

Thanks for compiling such a comprehensive list on tailoring techniques.

Sigrid said...

Fine list with information. I do have Couture techniques and Power Sewing. The last one was the first English sewing book I bought, and it's been a great help in improving my techniques.

macati said...

como nao percebo nada de costura (alfaiataria) devo dizer que so de olhar para os livros fico encantada! adoro as imagens dos livros mais antigos! és uma querida em partilhar tudo com o pessoal!
bjnh d bom fim d semana e carnaval

LauraLo said...

What an amazing list of references, Tany! Thank you for mentioning me, I feel very honored!

Mamã Martinho said...

Que grande colecção! Por pouco dava para abrires uma livraria!
Sem dúvida continuas a dar boas referências para quem se pretende aprofundar mais sobre o assunto. Acho que devias pensar seriamente em abrir umas aulas de costura!

Bjs

Mónica

paco peralta said...

Tany.- gracias por tu mención, de veras. Felicidades por este post. Los libros son magníficos y sobre todo los links verdaderamente instructivos. Un trabajo excelente de recopilación y costura, digno de amabilidad que te caracteriza. Un fuerte abrazo. Paco

Claudine said...

Wow, what an impressive library you have! I thought I had a good sewing reference library, but I must admit I'm feeling a little jealous of yours. It seems like you're putting all these references to very good use.

Audrey said...

Tany querida que coleção maravilhosa você tem, sabes que amo o seu blog pelas suas costuras, explicações,linkes quando passeio por aqui sempre aprendo mais um pouco.
Beijos,
Audrey

Linda said...

Nice collection of books. I have a few of those myself. I have bookmarked this post for all the helpful links you provided.

Berry said...

Thanks for sharing all these references, pretty impressive. I've been waiting for Claire Schaeffers' book for more than a month now but my order got lost. I can't wait to go through it. I just love sewing books!

Kelroc said...

I have The Complete Book of Sewing for about 4 years now. It is a great book. I am a visual leaner and I have found the book to be very helpful. I intend on buy the Claire Shaffer Couture Techniques book. I already on High Fashion Sewing Secrets by Claire Shaffer

Melody said...

You've saved my coat! Thanks for sharing this fantastic wealth of information.

gabriella said...

Kia ora from New Zealand, Tany. Thank you for this great 2-part post. I found a copy of "Tailoring: traditional and contemporary techniques" on Abebooks.com after reading Part One. I'm very grateful for your advice as this really is an exceptional book: incredibly clearly written and very comprehensive. Your blog is always inspiring and I will be trying a tailored jacket for this winter thanks to you.

Marcia Hilleshein said...

Que livros maravilhosos, dá vontade de ter todos! Por aqui é possível encontrar O Grande Livro da Costura, mas custa caro.
Outro dia fui a um armarinho e encontrei uma entretela que vc mencionou em seu blog, lembrei de ti na hora, pensei "ah, aqui tb tem!" rsrsrs.
Seu blog é maravilhoso.
Bjs, Marcia.

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas! Thank you all! Gracias!

Melody and Gabriella: Thank you and welcome to Couture et Tricot! Gabriella: The "Tailoring: Traditional and Contemporary techniques" is a wonderful book, the very best on tailoring as far as I know. I'm glad you found a copy!

Paulandre said...

Dicas maravilhosas e vindas de quem entende melhor ainda. Um grande abraço. =)

Tany said...

Obrigada, Paulo Andre! Um abração para você!

Jenaveve said...

I have just read your wonderful list of references - thank you so much for putting all of this on your blog! Fantastic and so very useful.

Thank you!!