Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Referências para Alfaiataria (Parte 1) - References on Tailoring (Part 1)

Como prometido, vou listar alguns livros e weblinks que usei como referência no estudo de técnicas de alfaiataria. Este primeiro post é dedicado apenas a livros exclusivamente sobre este assunto e o próximo listará alguns outros livros que contêm capítulos interessantes sobre o tema, além de algumas referências online de interesse.
As promised, I’m listing a few books and web links that I have used and am using as reference when studying tailoring techniques. This first post is dedicated to books specifically on tailoring techniques and the next one of this series will list a few more books that I own and which have chapters on tailoring that I find interesting, along with a few web links of interest in this matter.

Antes de mais importa deixar claro que existem três métodos gerais de alfaiataria:
- O método clássico: a maior parte do trabalho é feito à mão, e os materiais de suporte são cosidos ao tecido e não colados; tipicamente usa entretelas de crina, fitas de linho ou de algodão e chumaços feitos à medida. É o método mais trabalhoso mas produz os resultados mais duráveis.
- O método “à máquina”: pode usar o mesmo tipo de entretelas e materiais que o método clássico, mas os materiais de suporte são cosidos à máquina no tecido.
- O método contemporâneo: mais rápido, usa essencialmente materiais de suporte colados a ferro e caracteriza-se pelo uso de algumas técnicas industriais.
Before we start, there are a few general considerations on the type of tailoring methods; basically there are three different methods:
- The classical method: most of the work is done by hand and the supportive materials are hand sewn (padstitched) to the fabric and not fused; typically it makes use of hair canvas, cotton or linen tapes and custom made shoulder pads. This is the more labour intensive method of all but it produces the more durable end results.
- The machine method: the traditional tailoring materials can be used but they are machine stitched to the fabric, instead of padstitched.
-The contemporary method: quicker than any of the above, makes use of fusible supportive materials and some industrial techniques.

Qualquer destes métodos pode produzir excelentes resultados se for bem aplicado. A escolha do método depende do tecido, do estilo (casacos muito estruturados normalmente beneficiam da aplicação do método clássico) e da preferência de cada um e nível de conhecimentos de costura. Em alta-costura, os designers optam muitas vezes por um método “misto”, ou seja, usam entretelas de crina nas lapelas e nas frentes mas reforçam as bainhas, bolsos e outras partes com entretelas de colar a ferro (fusíveis).
Any of these three methods can produce good results if applied correctly. The choice of the method depends on the fabric, the style (more structured garments benefit more of the traditional techniques) and personal preference and sewing skill. Most designers nowadays opt for a mixed approach where, for example, lapels and collars are done the traditional way but the hems, pocket areas and other reinforcements are done with fusibles.

Como sabem, para este fato optei pelo método contemporâneo, condicionada pelo tecido fino e pela oferta limitada de entretelas de alfaiate (de crina). No entanto estou a utilizar também técnicas clássicas, como os chumaços feitos à medida e alguns pormenores de reforço.
As you already know, I opted for the contemporary method, conditioned by the lightweight fabric and the lack of suitable hair canvas for this fabric, although I’m using some traditional techniques as well, like the custom made shoulder pads and some other details.

Um livro que considero essencial para quem quiser começar a fazer alfaiataria é o livro da enciclopédia Singer sobre este tema, também conhecido como “Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket”:

A book that I find to be essential to whom is taking the first steps on tailoring is the Singer Reference Library book on Tailoring, also known as “Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket”:

Recomendo este livro como introdução ao tema por três razões: trata dos três métodos que referi acima, é extremamente bem ilustrado (bom para pessoas que gostem de aprender visualmente), com fotos a cores de todos os passos, e também trata o assunto da alfaiataria de uma forma concisa e organizada, orientando o leitor para as melhores técnicas. Não é um livro completo (incide apenas nas jaquetas femininas) mas trata os aspectos essenciais com bastante rigor.
I recommend this book as a good introduction to tailoring for three reasons: it addresses the three methods stated above, it’s extremely well illustrated (great for the visual learner), and taking step by step photos on every procedure. It’s well organized and straight forward, oriented to the best techniques. It is not a complete thorough book (it deals essentially on women’s jackets) but it addresses the tailoring main issues.

Capítulos:
Contents:

Making Selections
Tips & Tools
Before You Sew
Tailoring Techniques
Finishing Techniques


Para as Portuguesas, quem fez a colecção de fichas “Mil Ideias de Costura” da Salvat, tem a enciclopédia de referência Singer em Português, incluindo a parte sobre alfaiataria de que trata este livro!
For the Portuguese speaking readers, the ones that collected the “One Thousand Ideas on Sewing” from Salvat Editors, you have access to the almost complete Singer Sewing Reference Library in Portuguese, including the tailoring part!
A minha referência favorita e o livro que considero mais completo (dentro dos livros que possuo) é o “Tailoring, Traditional and Contemporary Techniques” de N. Marie Ledbetter e Linda Thiel Lansing (Prentice-Hall Inc.1981 – ISBN: 0-9359-7534-7):
My favorite reference on Tailoring and the book that I consider to be more complete and thorough (among the books that I own), is the “Tailoring, Traditional and Contemporary Techniques” from N. Marie Ledbetter e Linda Thiel Lansing (Prentice-Hall Inc.1981 – ISBN: 0-9359-7534-7):

Este livro é uma pérola, e incide principalmente no método clássico e no método contemporâneo, no entanto explora todos os aspectos da alfaiataria com muito detalhe. Não contém fotos, apenas desenhos e não é um livro para principiantes. No entanto, se quiserem aprofundar o tema da alfaiataria, este é o livro indicado.
This book is a gem, and it focuses on both classical and contemporary techniques, going into more detail than the Singer book. It doesn’t feature any photos but only pen drawings; it is not a book for the beginner, but it’s a wonderful book if you want to push your tailoring skills further.

Conteúdo:
Contents:

Introduction
Equipment – Selection, Use and Care
Selection of Garment Components
Measurements and Pattern Adjustments
The Test Garment
Preparation of Fabrics and Adjustments in Pattern Design
Preliminary Steps in Construction
Stitching and Seam Construction
Pressing Equipment and Techniques
Comparison of Methods for Applying Supportive Materials
Contemporary Method for Applying Interfacing, Tape and Underlining
Fitting the Garment
Buttonholes and Other Closures
Pockets
Traditional Method for Applying Supportive Materials
Pad Stitching and Taping
Construction of Collars
Application of Facings and Collar
Sleeves
Hems
Lining Application
Finishing
Skirts and Pants


Outro livro que considero muito bom é “Classical Tailoring Techniques, a Construction Guide for Women’s Wear” de Roberto Cabrera e Patrícia Flaherty Meyers (Fairchild Publications, fifth printing 1998, ISBN: 1-87005-475-X):
Another excellent book is the “Classical Tailoring Techniques, a Construction Guide for Women’s Wear” from Roberto Cabrera e Patrícia Flaherty Meyers (Fairchild Publications, fifth printing 1998, ISBN: 1-87005-475-X):
Este livro incide apenas no método clássico. Existem dois livros do mesmo autor; um dedicado a alfaiataria para homem e este, que é dedicado à alfaiataria para mulher. Inclui desenhos esquemáticos e fotos a preto e branco. O seu estilo de escrita é simples, claro e conciso, tipo manual.
This book addresses only the traditional/classical methods. There are two books by the same authors, actually: one focuses on man tailoring and the other one is this one, which focuses on women tailoring techniques. It includes pen drawings and black & white pictures. Its style of writing is very straight forward, like a school manual.

Conteúdo:
Contents:

Tailoring
The Pattern
The Fit
Fabric
Layout/Cutting
Jackets
Skirts
Pants
Alterations
Patterns


Outro livro excelente, mas que incide apenas no método clássico, é o “The Complete Book of Tailoring For Women Who Like to Sew” de Adele P. Margolis (esta é a edição de 1964):
Yet another excellent book that focuses on the traditional methods only is “The Complete Book of Tailoring for Women Who Like to Sew” from Adele P. Margolis (this one is the 1964 edition):

Conteúdos:
Contents:

Suit Yourself
The Fabric, the Pattern and You
Fit to Flatter
Tailoring Tips
The Shape of Things to Come
And Sew a Fine Seam
Pressing Problems
Tricky Trio: Buttonhole, Pocket, Zipper
All’s Well That Ends Well
Special Handling


É necessário ter todos estes livros? Não, mas há sempre uma maneira diferente de abordar certo assunto, uma técnica que não se encontra nos outros livros ou uma forma particular de endereçar determinado tópico que faz com que cada livro valha a pena, pelo menos para mim. Considero-me uma coleccionadora de livros e a minha colecção tem vindo e continuará a aumentar com o tempo! O assunto de alfaiataria é muitas vezes abordado em livros sobre costura geral ou sobre alta-costura; também existem na Internet alguns recursos que vale a pena consultar se planeiam um projecto de alfaiate. Num próximo artigo vou listar algumas dessas referências!
Is it necessary to have all these books to learn how to tailor? By all means no, but there are always different approaches to the same subject, a technique that is featured nowhere else and a particular insight on a subject that makes each book unique and valuable, at least this is how I feel towards my book collection, and I am a collector! There are many general sewing books and some books on Couture techniques that address Tailoring methods, and a few very interesting online resources too; the next post on this series will list a few more references!

19 comments:

Adrienne said...

These are great references. I will have to make a note of this, so when I do something that needs tailoring, I will have it handy :-)

marty said...

Tonight when I read your post, I had to laugh as I just ordered the Singer Library's book on Tailoring yesterday. I, too, am a collector of books and have Adele P. Margolis' book on Tailoring published in 1976. It was the textbook for the tailoring course that I took back then at the University. Another book that is filled with lots of good info on different tailoring methods is "Easy, Easier, & Easiest Tailoring" by palmer-pletsch. It is on their website and is filled with lots of good info. Thanks for sharing.

Sigrid said...

Thanks Tany, I'm off to Alibris to see what's on offer!

toya said...

thanks for the recommendations tany

Vicki said...

Thanks for summarising so many books for us. I also have the early Palmer Pletsch book and the Cecelia Podilak book.

I think that is plenty, just need to put it all into action!!!

macati said...

Extraordinário! acho que mesmo assim nao seria capaz de fazer as coisas que fazes! és super talentosa e devias fazer um livro tb! e dp quero um autógrafo e vou-te ver no lanaçamento do livro! que tal?
:)
bjnh

rosa said...

OLA AMIGA
ESTAS A VER O COMENTARIO DA -MACATI-
POIS TODA A GENTE TE ESTÁ A INCENTIVAR HEHEHE!!!
TENS QUE PASSAR TUDO O QUE TENS NO BLOG,PRA ALGUNS ALBUNS!!!
AMEI OS LIVROS TODOS,EXCELLENTES!!!
BEM FICA A VONTADE DE COMPRAR TODOS!!
MUITO OBRIGADA PELOS BONS CONSELHOS TANY.
DEIXEI UM POST DE TRICOT PARA TI,ESPERO QUE GOSTES!!!
UMA BOA SEMANA PRA TI
BJS
ROSA

Shannon said...

I have the SInger Tailoring book and the Adele Margolis book and I would be lost without them. They are two of my favourite books. I will certainly be looking into buying the other books you have listed as well.

Mamã Martinho said...

Grande colecção! Esta parece muito boa.

Bjs

Mónica

Isabelle said...

What a great article, Tany. I purchased a few sewing books yesterday, and realize how helpful it was to read others' experiences with them. I know this will come handy some day... (and I should share my own book reviews as well. My sewing book library is certainly not as extensive as yours, but the few I have it may still help others!) Thank you so much! ((((hugs))))

Isabelle said...

PS forgot to mention that one of the books I got was S. Khalje's Linen and Cotton. I adored her Bridal Couture book, and decided to buy Linen and Cotton after reading your review! Seems like a perfect book to prepare for summer projects (since they often involve these kinds of fabrics). :)

Sheila said...

Thanks for the reference material. I was on Ebay yesterday looking for sewing books... Now I can back track and hopefully find one or two that you recommended.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Being an Adele Margolis fan, you know that I have that one and I also have the Singer book. Thanks for the list of tailoring books!

paco peralta said...

Tany, fabuloso post. Los libros son muy interesantes y nuestra fuente de aprendizaje. Un abrazo, Paco

Sismada said...

Eu tb vi o comentário da Macati, e da Rosa .
Só prova uma coisa Força estaremos cá para qualquer coisa necessária ;)
Beijinhos

Drica said...

olá Acabei d conhecer o teu blog e me encantei! parabens! voltarei a passar aqui! bjao! :D

dawn said...

I have a Singer Tailoring book and the Classic Tailoring book, the first you listed. I think they are identical. In any case, I do love them for the fact that they are so photo rich and easy to read.

Anonymous said...

Tany, parabéns pelo talento e pelo blog. Gostaria de saber se há algum email para manter contato contigo. O meu é: vandi.santos@terra.com.br

Vandi/Brazil

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas!
Thank you all! And thanks for the extra book references!

Isabelle:"Linen and Cotton" is an excellent book and its scope is not limited to sewing with linen and/or cotton; it walks you through the best practices! (((HUGS)) to you too, my dear friend!

Sismada, Rosa e Macati: Era maravilhosos escrever um livro, mas se começasse agora um projecto desses não ia ter tempo para mais nada, nem para o blog! Obrigada pelo vosso apoio e confiança! Beijinhos!

Gracias Paco! He aprendido muchas cosas de mis libros, pero no hay nada mejor que la experiencia práctica! Un fuerte abrazo para ti!

Drica e Vandi: Sejam muito bem-vindas ao Couture et Tricot! Obrigada pelo vosso apoio!

Dawn: I believe they are in fact the same book! And I love them for the same reason, they are so well illustrated!