Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Vestido Galaxy de Roland Mouret – Roland Mouret’s Galaxy Dress

Aqui está o resultado do meu primeiro projecto com um molde Vogue! Este vestido é inspirado no original de Roland Mouret, o vestido Galaxy, a grande estrela da sua colecção de Outono 2005 (imagem retirada de http://www.style.com/).
Here's the result of my first Vogue! This dress is inspired by the original by Roland Mouret, the Galaxy Dress, which was the star garment from his 2005 Fall collection (image is courtesy of http://www.style.com).
Este vestido entrou para a história como sendo o mais procurado e usado por celebridades, atingindo um preço próximo das mil libras. Após ter dado vida a esta colecção o estilista anunciou a sua retirada do palco da moda o que fez com que este vestido rapidamente atingisse o estatuto de item de colecção. Foram feitas diversas cópias e a Vogue lançou um molde inspirado neste vestido tão emblemático. Pela sua história, por me ter apaixonado por este vestido desde a primeira vez que o vi e também pelas versões deste vestido produzidas por várias divas do mundo dos blogs, decidi que este seria o molde ideal para me estrear com a Vogue!
This dress made history for being the most wanted dress in that year, worn by many celebrities and having a price tag that rounded the thousand pounds. After giving birth to this fabulous collection the designer announced to the world that he was leaving his label and the Galaxy Dress rose to the status of collector's item. This dress was copied many times and copies were sold at a low price. Then Vogue publishes the pattern for this dress, making it available for the home sewing community. For its history, for falling in love with this dress the first time I saw it and also for being inspired by the fabulous versions put to life by the hand of many blogging sewing Divas, I decided that this dress would be the ideal First Vogue Garment for me!

O molde da Vogue que utilizei é o V8280, versão E (cortesia de http://www.voguepatterns.com/):
The Vogue pattern is the V8280, I made version E (images are courtesy of http://www.voguepatterns.com):
Decidi desde logo usar o método industrial para lidar com os moldes da Vogue, que já vêm com os valores de costura incluídos de 1.5cm. Decidi também comprar uma recortilha e a base de corte própria para experimentar este método de uma forma mais expedita:
Since the planning of this dress I decided I should try and use the industrial method for cutting and constructing it, since the Vogue patterns are built with the SAs included and there so are not fitted for being thread traced like the BWOF's patterns. I also decided to purchase a cutting wheel and a self-healing cutting matt and try it on with this pattern!
Como é óbvio, os moldes que têm os valores de costura incluídos não foram feitos para facilitar a marcação com alinhavos; no entanto houve algumas linhas que transferi com papel de decalque amarelo e depois alinhavei: as pinças e os entalhes. Outra coisa que não fui capaz de fazer foi cortar o molde; em vez disso copiei o meu tamanho base para papel de moldes e efectuei as modificações que achei necessárias após ter medido muito bem o molde e comparado as medidas com as do meu corpo. Parti de um tamanho 12 e alarguei para um 14 na cintura, calculando as medidas para que o vestido ficasse com pouca folga uma vez que o tecido que usei tem alguma elasticidade.
There were a few markings that I had thread traced though: the darts and the notches; first I transferred these lines to the fabric using yellow carbon tracing paper and then I thread traced them for better accuracy (being able to "feel" the thread lines with my fingers greatly increases my accuracy). I also couldn't cut the pattern; instead I copied the base size to the paper I normally use for tracing the BWOF's patterns and altered the pattern from there. I measured the pattern and compared the measurements with my body's measurements, assuring minimal wearing ease since my fabric stretches; I started with size 12 and tapered it into a 14, distributing the extra fullness not only at the side seams but also taking off from the darts' width.

Material - Notions:

Tecido: 97%algodão 3% elastano com o lado direito acetinado
Fabric: 97%cotton 3%elastan; the right side has a satin look & feel
Forro: cetim de poliéster/lycra muito fino e com elasticidade
Lining: poly/Lycra very thin stretch satin
Fecho de 60cm (5cm maior do que o indicado)
24 inch zipper (instead of the 22 inch referred by the instructions)
Entretela fina de malha de colar a ferro
Thin knit fusible interfacing

Construção - Construction:

O processo de construção deste vestido decorreu sem qualquer problema; a parte mais difícil é sem dúvida a aplicação do encaixe do ombro, mas se lerem bem as instruções e tomarem atenção aos desenhos que as acompanham, não terão qualquer problema. Ao fazer o vestido não segui completamente as instruções; as grandes diferenças foram motivadas por duas resoluções que tomei à partida: forrar o vestido por inteiro (as instruções mencionam apenas o tronco) e aplicar as mangas da mesma forma que fiz para o vestido balão, de forma a esconder os valores de costura das cavas. Seguindo este método é mais fácil aplicar as mangas primeiro e só depois coser as costuras laterais, cosendo o forro na continuação das costuras do vestido. Antes de fechar as costuras laterais também fechei a costura do meio de trás até ao sinal de abertura do fecho e apliquei o fecho invisível como habitualmente. Depois de coser as costuras laterais o forro é cosido à mão ao fecho e também à bainha e racha do vestido, escondendo assim qualquer valore de costura da vista e tornando este vestido numa peça de luxo extremamente confortável e agradável de usar. Outra modificação que fiz foi entretelar as partes de fora dos encaixes das mangas e os valores de costura da abertura para o fecho.
The construction process for this dress went smoothly and without any problems; the trickiest part is the flange but if you pay close attention to the instructions and the accompanying drawings you'll do fine. I didn't follow the instructions exactly; the major differences where motivated by two initial resolutions: full lining the dress and applying the method for sleeve construction that I used before on the bubble dress, concealing the SAs at the armholes and providing a neater finish inside. If you follow this method, the side seams are better left alone until after the sleeve is attached. The zipper is also inserted before sewing the side seams, right after stitching the CB seam from hem to the zipper opening mark. The side seams are stitched continuously with the lining side seams (the lining skirt should be attached to the lining bodice first, side seams left open). The lining is then handstitched to the zipper tape on the back and along the hem and back vent, concealing all the SAs and inner construction details and turning this dress into a luxury garment, extremely comfortable when worn. Another thing I did differently was the interfacing of the outer flanges and the zipper opening SAs with thin knit fusible.

Detalhes – Detail shots:

A manga pregueada e o encaixe do ombro são, sem dúvida, as características emblemáticas deste vestido
The pleated sleeve and the flange are the signature of this dress:

Aqui têm o vestido do avesso, completamente forrado a cetim:
Here is the dress inside out, full lined in stretch satin:
A cabeça da manga foi feita com tule azul-marinho e ajuda a levantar ligeiramente a manga:
I used dark blue tulle for making the sleeve head, obtaining a slight up raised effect:

Detalhe do fecho atrás, por fora e por dentro:
Invisible zipper detail, right side and wrong side:

O acabamento do forro na racha e na bainha do vestido (notem a folga que se deve dar ao forro para depois não repuxar o vestido):
The lining finish at the hem and back vent (note the little extra folded length):

Conclusão: Fiquei muito satisfeita com o resultado e considero este vestido como uma das melhores peças que fiz até hoje. Penso que consegui que ficasse ajustado ao corpo de forma perfeita. Sinto-me muito bem com ele vestido, pela sua mística, pela cor e pelas linhas favorecedoras. Por tudo isto decidi usar este vestido em vez do vestido Burda Internacional no casamento a que vou este sábado! Depois talvez actualize esta entrada com mais fotos ;o), quem sabe… Até à próxima!
Conclusion: I am very happy with the final outcome and I see this dress as one of my best self-made garments so far. I think I achieved a good fit and I feel great in it, thanks to its mystique, its color and flattering lines. For all these reasons I decided on wearing this dress to the wedding next Saturday instead of the Burda International dress! MAYBE I'll update this blog entry with more pictures then! See you!

54 comments:

toya said...

its absolutely beatiful, and I love the color, you will be the hit of that wedding,, well, hopefully after the bride, lol
its stunning

Summerset said...

Phenomenal! Beautiful fit and beautiful insides! I love it - the navy is a nice departure from the usual black. You look perfect now and will be for the wedding, too.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

This dress is stunning on you! If I am allowed to weigh in, I much prefer this one to the Burda International one for the wedding. Thanks for all of the information contained in your post!

christina said...

Gorgeous! I love the color.

mary said...

truly awesome!

Shannon said...

Amazing work (as usual)! You are beyond hot in that dress! Yowza!!

stacy said...

You look fabulous! This has to be the best looking dress that I've seen you in!

Lori said...

Tany, this is so beautiful on you. Once again amazing work.

Vicki said...

Oh, so beautiful!! Please do post some more pictures!

Lisa Laree said...

Ok, somehow I put the comment on the wrong post! It was supposed to go here....

So I'll say it again:

Beautiful!!

May said...

Gorgeous! Congrats! Your smile tells it all. We all look forward to more photos of you in the dress. Have fun at the wedding!

Isabelle said...

Tany, you dress is so perfect in every way!! The details are amazing. Congratulations.

I have Vogue 2943, which has common points with your pattern (although the waist and back are constructed very differently). I remember when purchasing it that it was a close call between yours and that one. Was looking at it again the other evening as I was considering my next project... The Miss Moneypenny won this time, but... Your own dress is too gorgeous not to make me consider making it sooner than I thought! :)

Big congratulations again, that is a stunning dress my friend. Big hugs!

madhatter said...

stunning!
the dress is beautiful, but even more beautiful on you - you've got the figure to wear it, and you look gorgeous in it!

Dami said...

spectacular. definately wear this one to the wedding!!!!

Tina said...

Ficou lindo, vais arrasar no casamento!!!
Bjts

Adrienne said...

Beautiful!!!!! It looks fantastic on you!

Vicki W said...

Wherever you wear this dress you will be the most stunning womanin the room! You did an awesome job on construction. That dress is as beautiful on the inside as out but, more importantly, it looks perfect on you! Congratulations!

berry said...

Oh Tany, this dress looks wonderful on you and is again sewn with so much love for the little details. Great color, great-looking material and professional-looking fit!

Sigrid said...

Spectacular, perfect dress to go to a wedding.

Judi said...

Beautiful - the finishing, the fit - you are absolutely fabulous!

Jackie said...

Beautiful dress! I love the fabric and how you show the details on how you completed the garment. It looks great on you!

Filomena said...

Uau, que elegante!! ;o)

Rucas said...

Divinal!!!

Bom casamento
beijocas

emily said...

Really really lovely! I'm so glad you showed the close-up of the sleeves - I was a little worried that they would make my shoulders look too broad, but you've convinced me otherwise.

touran said...

You look stunning. The midnight blue is perfect against your dark hair. Very beautiful image.

Erica B. said...

Tany, that is so stunning! You look so gorgeous. Pity you may upstage the bride! Fantastic work as usual!

Sismada said...

Lindo!!!! Olha ficou perfeito!!!
Posso fazer uma pergunta???
Metes-te o tule na manga entre o forro e a pele???
Ao entre o forro e o tecido (fiquei curiosa)
Bjs

Fica-te a matar!!! Vais arrasar...

dawn said...

It's beautiful. I love the lines around the neck and armhole. And that seems to be a good shape for you.

Audrey said...

Olá Tany,mais uma obra prima terminada, ficou perfeito em você vai arrasar no casamento.
Olha amiga já esta na hora de mudar de profissão e abrir um ateliê pra você.
Vai chover de clientes.
Beijocas,
Audrey

Maja said...

Hi,Tany!This dress takes breathaway!It is perfect but I must say it is not the dress for anyone.Your perfect body gives a special beauty to the dress.It fits you greeeat!

macati said...

bem... com tantos comentarios a dizerem aquilo que sinto ja nem sei o que acrescentar! vais arrasar de certeza! é lindo lindo!
:)
bom fim de semana gira

Sheila said...

What a gorgeous dress!!! and thanks for showing the details on how you finished the garment.

mirela said...

I love everything about this dress! The fit is perfect for you, the neckline is so simple and elegant, the cotton satin is gorgeous. Perfect inside and out like always!

rosa said...

OLA TANY,QUE SAUDADES AMIGA!!!
LINDO LINDO,ESTE VESTIDO,A MANGA UM ESPETACULO,ESTOU APAIXONADA!!
PERFEITISSIMA COMO SEMPRE,TENS UMAS MAOZINHAS DE FADA!!
AINDA ÑAO TENHO NET,MAS PASSEI PRA FAZER UMA VISITA E DIZER QUE ÑAO ME ESQUECI DE TI!
BJS COM CARINHO LINDAAAAA!!
BOM FIM DE SEMANA.

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas pelos elogios ao vestido Galaxy!
Thank you all for the nice cpmpliments on the Galaxy dress!

Mary and Sigrid Welcome to Couture et Tricot!!

Anynha Crochê said...

Olá Amiga!!!
Parabens por mais um trabalho maravilhoso, ficou lindo d+.
Desejo a vc que seu fim de semana seja
Maravilhoso...bjuss

Theresa (Textilogist) said...

Superb! What skill you have-very much appreciated the details of the construction process. The dress looks like it would be a joy to wear.

Estar Bem Interiores said...

Muito elegante !!parabnes tany

Tany said...

Theresa: Thank you! The dress was indeed a joy to wear at my friend's wedding yesterday and I was very happy when the groom's mother came to my table and congratulated me on it!! Welcome to Couture et Tricot!

Tini said...

this dress is another sample of your great skills and another posting, from which I learned a great deal! Thank you for sharing these great things with us!

cidell said...

I am speechless. You look like a rockstar in the dress. Just truly amazing. To have your skills....

Mamã Martinho said...

Bem merceidos estes 41 comentários que tiveste! O vestido ficou um espanto Tany! Vi-o só no manequim, mas vestido é bem melhor do que pensava! Agora toca lá a por as fotos do casório!

bjs

Mónica

Oficina das Linhas said...

Ó Tany, "fi-fu-fiu"...É favor entender isto como um assobio :)

O vestido ficou mesmo lindo, a cor também é muito bonita e sem dúvida o pormenor da manga faz toda a diferença.

Já agora, reparei numa foto que tens uma roller cutter, onde a compraste? Eu tenho uma, mas não presta, a lâmina não dura nada. Já procurei em todo o lado cá na terra, mas não há. Se calhar tenho que tentar na net, mas fico sempre na dúvida se estou a fazer a escolha correcta...

Beijinhos, Carmen

Linda said...

Absolutely gorgeous!

Tany said...

Carmen: Comprei a minha recortilha no Ebay, juntamente com 5 lâminas supelentes; se fores a www.ebay.com e procurares por "rotary cutter" encontras várias à venda e também as lâminas. Cá já as vi também nas papelarias técnicas. Para durarem mais devem ser utilizadas sobre uma superfície própria (base de corte ou cutting matt) também à venda nas papelarias ténicas. Beijinhos!

Crystal said...

This is so beautiful. I am really jealous. I have that pattern, and tried it earlier in the year without success. I want to have another go at it, but the way my sewing has been going, I just don't know. But yours is perfect and you should be really proud of what a fantastic job you did!

Anonymous said...

Wow, this looks fantastic as always. And you have a figure to die for!
Envious Rubydarling

Dami said...

hehehee.. just noticed that you now look a little bit more like your profile pic with this navy blue dress!

Anonymous said...

I really love this dress - you look absolutely georgeous in it!
I started working on it a few weeks ago but felt it was too complicated for me to sew.
It would be great if you would post more pictures of the details (sleeves, neckline, bodice) for all of us who were not as sucessful as you...

Regards
Suzanne

Tany said...

Susanne: Thank you and welcome to Couture et Tricot!
I think this project is indeed advanced but I think I cannot do any better than the linedrawings on the Vogue's instruction sheet to help others on making this dress. I've shown pictures of the sleeves inside and outside (I did them differently) and linked to another post where I explained how I inserted them (Summerset's tip). This is the hard part, as far as I am concerned. There's nothing new about the neckline; it's understitched like on the back neckline (see pictures of the back invisible zipper). The dress is fully lined so I cannot show other inner construction details. I do a great effort writing this blog and my tutorials (in two languages) and unfortunately I don't have the time and the energy to document everything I do.

Katrin said...

Gasp...I missed this post because of my wedding preparations. This is unbelievable beautiful, Tany. I do also fell in love with this dress but I don´t have the occasion to wear and sew it yet, but maybe next year at a friend´s wedding.

I love the instruction details and information you give!

Greets,
Katrin

Tany said...

Katrin: Thank you! It's my favorite formal dress so far and it enjoyed sewing it so much! I highly recommend this pattern!

Raymondo said...

How fantastic! There is actualy other mad crazy sewer out there! Thank you so much for the detailed photos of the sleeve. I didn't quite get the sleeve right - but now I can now alter that. I love your fabric! My fabric is petrol blue metalic with embossed croc scales.
Greetings from Torquay

Tany said...

Raymondo: Thank you! And you are welcome! I try my best to share and help others! I'm glad my pictures helped.
Welcome to Couture et Tricot!