Monday, April 11, 2016

2016#6: The Blue Steel jacket (V1465 Donna Karan, view A) - A jaqueta Blue Steel

 EN Summary: I'm starting a new set of coordinates which I'm calling Blue Steel. The first Blue Steel garment is jacket V1465 view A (Donna Karan) and in this article I'm showing all the finished garment details. Keep reading!
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PT Simário: Comecei a fazer um novo conjunto de roupa, ao qual chamei Blue Steel. O primeiro elemento é a jaqueta Vogue1465, vista A (Donna Karan) e no artigo de hoje mostro todos os detalhes do projeto finalizado. Continuem a ler!



 EN: This pattern is a delight; it's well fitted through the back, the sleeves hang well and the front drapes beautifully. The only complain is the center back bound seam allowances being visible when the collar is turned down at the back neckline, but there's no way around it because of the top-stitched edge finishing.
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PT: Este molde é uma delicia; as costas são bem ajustadas, as mangas têm bom cair e o drapeado da frente fica muito bem. A única coisa que não gostei tanto foi o facto das margens de coatura da costura central atrás da gola ficarem a ver-se quando a gola vira para baixo, mas devido ao acabamento pespontado da orla (que é firado para o avesso), não há grande volta a dar-lhe.
 EN: I found the pattern instructions quite good and I followed them for most part (except for making my own seam binding from lining fabric - I used Hug Snug tape instead - and I also top.stitched the vertical seams joining front and side front panel, and along the back neckline in one single step. The top-stitched edge corners are mitered and if you use mark your fabric accurately and follow the pattern instructions, they are not difficult to accomplish; remember to hand baste and press them before you start top-stitching. Also press when you're done top-stitching.
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PT: Achei as instruções do molde bastante boas e segui-as na sua maior parte (exceto na parte de fazer a fita de remate das margens com forro - usei Hug Snug em vez da fita cortada de forro - e também pespontei as costuras verticais dos paineis da frente, passando em continuação por detrás do decote. Os cantos das orlas pespontadas são feitos em esquadria e se marcarem bem o tecido de acordo com o molde, é só seguir as instruções, tendo o cuidado de alinhavar e assentar a ferro antes e depois de passar os pespontos.
 EN: The hems all around the jacket's edge, collar and sleeves are worked the same way, as you can see bellow; the edge is turned under by 3/8" and then along the marked hemline. Careful basting is key for accuracy.
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PT: As bainhas à volta da jaqueta, gola e mangas são todas trabalhadas da mesma forma: vira-se para dentro uma margem de 1cm e depois novamente pela linha da bainha; como é óbvio, alinhavar é mandatório se pretenderem conseguir um trabalho preciso.
 EN: The pattern is quite simple, actually; it's the inside seam treatment that raises this jacket to another level; the jacket is unlined so all seams except the armholes are bound. This double knit has less stretch than the one I used for the Red Galore (it has no stretch lengthwise) so I was able to press the folded Hug Snug tape and simply baste it in place. Then I stitched close to the hand bastings through all thickness and removed the basting thread. Remember to press the seams open before applying the Hug Snug tape, and afterwords. 
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PT: O molde até que é bastante simples, o acabamento das costuras no avesso é que eleva a jaqueta a outro nível; a jaqueta não é forrada, por isso todas as margens são rematadas com fita. Esta malha dupla não tem tanta elasticidade como a vermelha que estou a usar no conjunto Red Galore, por isso é mais fácil assentar a ferro a fita dobrada e depois aplicála com alinhavos nas margens (assnetar as costuras a ferro antes); depois de coser é só retirar os alinhavos e voltar a assentar a ferro.
 EN: I really enjoyed sewing this jacket and I highly recommend it. You can always skip the labor intensive seam treatment or use a serger if you don't want to invest that much time into this jacket, so don't be discouraged by all the seam binding. Also remember the pattern is fitted (intended for knits with moderate stretch) so you may want to check at least your bust measurement against what's marked in the pattern. I cut a size 14 for myself. In my opinion this pattern looks best made from a stable knit with some body into it, to give it a slight structure. Ponte Roma or even thin neoprene will be great for this pattern.
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PT: Gostei bastante de coser esta jaqueta e recomendo-a vivamente. Podem sempre não fazer o tratamento das costuras (este tipo de malha nem precisa), ou então utilizar a corta-e-cose, caso não queiram investir tanto tempo neste projeto, por isso não se sintam desencorajados pelo acabamento das costuras original. Lembrem-se também que o molde é justo (é próprio para malhas com elasticidade moderada), por isso lembrem-se de verificar a medida do peito que é indicada no molde para o tamanho que vão utilizar; é a medida final da jaqueta. Cortei o tamanho 14 para mim. Na minha opinião esta jaqueta fica melhor feita de malha com algum corpo, para lhe dar uma leve estrutura. Malha Ponte Roma ou até neopreno fino resultarão muito bem com este molde.
EN: As for the remaining items of the Blue Steel set, I haven't decided if I make the same flared pants of the Red Galore Set or if I make wide leg culottes instead. There will be a top, most probably V1465 view C again, but with slight modifications. I still have a lot of blue double knit left so I'm keeping my mind open to every option.
Thank you all for reading!
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PT: QUanto aos restantes elementos do conjunto Blue Steel, ainda não decidi se faço as mesmas calças à boca-de-sino do conjunto Red Galore ou umas culotes. Vai haver também um top, provavelmente o do mesmo molde, mas com algumas modificações. AInda me sobrou bastante malha dupla azul, por isso vou manter-me aberta a todas as possibilidades.
Obrigada por aparecerem!

15 comments:

Faye Lewis said...

It's gorgeous Tany. Love that pattern and thanks for the fabric suggestions.

Bunny said...

Beautiful jacket, Tany. I love those finished seams and the top stitched miters are amazing.

Sigrid said...

Terrific!

Gail said...

Hi Tany. This jacket is lovely and a great colour. I'm always interested in unlined jackets. Like Portugal we have more need for trans-seasonal wear than heavy winter jackets.

Marianne said...

This is beautiful! I totally agree on your review and second the recommandation. It's both pretty and comfortable and I'm wearing mine quite often. The seam binding indeed takes this jacket to another level and although labor intensive (I made bias tape from lining fabric) it was totally worth it. The inside of this jacket brings a smile to my face whenever I reach for it! Like you I was worried about the seams showing at the back of the collar, but it's minimal and nobody seems to notice.

Graca said...

Your work (as always) is impeccable and your jacket is gorgeous. I love that colour. And I really like how you finished the seams on this fabric.

sewingkm said...

Beautiful jacket, Tany, and beautifully made as usual.

Linda said...

Lovely jacket. I like the Snug Hug used for the seams.

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

I loved the red set but this steel blue set is so cool so far! The jacket is amazing and the work involved in finishing off all those seams with Hug Snug is awesome...I have a real appreciation for the amount of work! If I may, I vote for the culottes. I think they will be awesome with that jacket especially if they appear skirt-like! Looking forward to the rest of the pieces.

Vicki said...

Beautiful work with the mitres and top stitching. Looking forward to seeing all the items.

Nancy K said...

Fabulous! This is on my to make list so it's nice to see your amazing version.

mem said...

I like it very much . Well done . Would it be possible to treat the center back seam like the collar edge and top stitch it like you did the edge , leaving out the seam binding on this bit ?

Tany said...

Mem: Thanks! I think you may be on to something there. The SAs would have to be larger and turned in 3/8", like the edge. The SAs should be trimmed down under the collar's edge (inside the top-stitched back collar edge) for bulk reduction, but the visible part could be treated as the edge. If you try this, please let me know!

Mónica Martinho said...

A jaqueta é linda.

Tomasa said...

Beautiful jacket and the workmanship is impeccable.