Thursday, March 17, 2016

Latest additions to my sewing library - As últimas aquisições para a minha biblioteca de costura

 EN Summary: There isn't such thing as too many books (as there isn't such thing as too many fabrics, patterns, pattern magazines, shoes or bags, right?). Keep reading to find out about the latest books that found their way into my library!
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PT Sumário: Para mim nunca se tem demasiados livros (tal como nunca se tem demasiados tecidos, moldes, revistas, sapatos ou carteiras, certo?). Continuem a ler para descobrirem as minhas últimas aquisições!



1. Las Bases de La Costura: Los bolsillos (Yushiko Mizuno)
 EN: I found out about this book through my friend Paco Peralta; it is written in Spanish and I haven't find am English edition just yet. If the fact discourages you from getting this little wonder, you may want to reconsider. This book is profusely illustrated with live photos and some diagrams when necessary. Each type of pocket insertion featured (and I think there are as many as I've ever used plus a couple more techniques that I didn't know about) is so very well illustrated that almost dispenses the use of an online dictionary to understand the written directions. See the patch pocket on the cover? It is entirely sewn to the garment by machine and the stitches aren't visible on the right side of the garment. There are clear instruction on how to do this type of patch pocket (there's an unlined version and a lined version, which involves a little hand sewing on the pocket lining only, after the pocket has been sewn to the garment). This book discusses optimal pocket sizing and placement. Full size templates are provided too. I ordered it from a Portuguese website (link) but I could also find it on The Book Depository (link) and Amazon (link). Really worth its cost, in my opinion.
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PT: Soube deste livro através do meu amigo Paco Peralta; está escrito em Espanhol (bastante fácil de entender para quem fala português), mas se pensam que a língua é um problema, deixem-me dizer-vos que este livro está profusamente ilustrado com fotos de todos os passos e diagramas quando necessário. Cada tipo de bolso (creio haver todos os tipos possíveis que eu tenha já cosurado, mais algumas técnicas que não conhecia) está tão bem ilustrado que quase dispensa a leitura das instruções que acompanham cada passo. Veem o bolso "chapa" da capa? É inteiramente cosido à máquina ao casaco, e os pontos não são visíveis do direito da peça. O livro tem instruções muito claras de como conseguir isto tanto num bolso de chapa simples como num bolso completamente forrado (este último implica um acabamento final à mão no forro do bolso). O livro fala sobre o posicionamento ideal e o tamanho dos diversos tipos de bolsos, além de fornecer templates em tamanho natural. Comprei o meu no Wook (link) mas também podem encontá-lo no Book Depository (link) e na Amazon (link).

2 - Vintage Couture Tailoring by Thomas Von Nordheim
 EN: I also found out about this book through Paco and what a wonderful book this is! The book description reads:
"The trade secrets of couture tailoring are revealed an invaluable guide for professionals and enthusiasts.Traditional tailoring has not changed for many centuries, however, the techniques are now known only by a few practicing in the best couture ateliers and bespoke tailor's workrooms. Nothing feels quite so luxurious as custom-made clothes, but the tailoring skills they require are often thought to be shrouded in mystery, and the clothes therefore only accessible to the rich and famous. This practical book brings vintage couture tailoring within everyone's reach. With step-by-step photographs and professional tips throughout, it shows how a lady's jacket is made and thereby introduces a range of fundamental tailoring techniques. These can be used for garments for either gender, as well as other sewing projects.The book discusses molding fabric to shape with the iron, employing loose interfacings, hollow shoulder construction, pad stitching canvas, interlining and weighting hems, making tailored and bound buttonholes, and more forgotten techniques." You can read about the author on his website (link).
This book really delivers and once again, the illustrations are quite fabulous, the best that I've seen on a tailoring book so far. I ordered mine from Book Depository (link) but you can also find it on Amazon (link).
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PT: Também soube deste livro através do Paco, e posso dizer-vos que foi um achado! Podem ler a descrição em Inglês no parágrafo acima, mas desde já vos digo que as técnicas tradicionais de alfaiataria, algumas já esquecidas ou só usadas em ateliers muito exclusivos de alta-costura, estão todas neste livro. Tal como o livro anterior, vale bem pelas fotos de todos os passos e técnicas. Podem ler como corrigir defeitos de postura através de reforços e acolchoados, como moldar o tecido com o ferro, como aplicar entretelas de coser, caseados de alfaiate, casas avivadas, utilização de pesos nas bainhas e muito mais. Se quiserem saber mais sobre o autor, podem consultar o seu site (link). Considero este livro um dos melhores (definitivamente o melhor quanto às ilustrações) acerca de alfaiataria tradicional. Encomendei o meu do Book Depository (link), mas também há na Amazon (link).

3 - Ralph Rucci, The Art of Weightlessness
 EN: This book was a gift from a very dear friend. It's not a technical sewing book, it's a book dedicated to the designer Ralph Rucci (one of my favorites) and his work throughout his career. This book is absolutely inspiring and has me completely in awe from page one. Its description reads:
"Working quietly and without much public attention for more than 20 years, American fashion designer Ralph Rucci suddenly became a headline topic in 2002, when he was invited to show his collection at the Haute Couture in Paris - the first American to receive such an invitation since Mainbocher in the 1930s. This sumptuously illustrated book is the first to explore in depth Rucci's life and work, including the inspirations behind the extraordinarily beautiful and very expensive clothes he creates. The contributors to the volume explore many aspects of Rucci's genius and emergence as a master in the fashion world. Valerie Steele places his life and work in the context of modern fashion history and discusses his connections with such figures as Balenciaga and Halston. Patricia Mears closely examines the garments he designs, reveals what makes them so special, and considers influences on his work. Clare Sauro describes Rucci's accessories, which complete the aesthetic vision that his fashions embody. The book is enriched with more than 100 photographs that include runway images, fashion shots of Rucci's clients, Chado Ralph Rucci garments from the collection of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology and from his own archives, as well as various inspirational objects and fashions."
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PT: Recebi este livro de uma boa Amiga. Não é um livro técnico de costura, antes é dedicado a um dos meus criadores favoritos, Ralph Rucci e à sua carreira na Alta Costura. Ralph Rucci tornou-se famoso em 2002 por ter sido o segundo Americano na história a ser convidado a integrar os desfiles de Alta-Costura em Paris (o primeiro foi Mainbocher nos anos 30). O trabalho de Ralph Rucci é indescritível, as suas criações são estraordinariamente elaboradas, lindissimas e muito caras, explorando o volume de uma forma totalmente original. O livro fala da sua vida, do seu começo na alta-costura e das influências ao longo da sua carreira. Contém mais de 100 fotos incluindo imagens de passerela, fotografias de suas clientes, e das suas criações no Museu F.I.T. além da sua coleção pessoal. Podem ler a descrição completa em Inglês acima.

4- Metric Patternmaking for Jackets and Coats (system M. Müller & Sohn)

EN: I've been meaning to get this book for ages but my friend's endless generosity has beaten me to it. This book teaches the renown  German pattern making system by M. Müller & Sohn, which I believe is the basis for BurdaStyle patterns. I've heard wonders about their sleeve pattern draft. I found out about this book through reading this blog entry (here) and then made my own research about this system. The book description reads: " This book is a comprehensive and systematic guide to pattern drafting with exceptional illustrations and step-by-step instructions how to develop patterns for jackets and coats with accuracy regardless of their complexity. 
The renowned patternmaking system M. Müller & Sohn with its centruries-old tradition and expertise has been updated to modern standards. Detailed instructions are given for dart manipulation, complex shaping seams, collars and hoods. In-depth information for pattern adjustments for different figure proportions are also included. The first English edition." The English edition in pdf format is available on http://www.muellersohn.com/ (link) for 126,80€.

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PT: Já andava a namorar este livro há bastante tempo, mas a generosidade de uma amiga chegou lá primeiro. O livro ensina o método de patronagem de grande renome mundial designado por sistema M. Müller & Sohn, o qual acredito estar na base, por exemplo, dos moldes BurdaStyle. Ouvi maravilhas do molde da manga conseguido com este método. A primeira vez que ouvi falar neste livro foi num blogue (link) e fiquei imediatamente interessada, pesquisando tudo o que consegui encontrar sobre o livro. Podem ler a sua descrição em Inglês acima. O livro em pdf está disponível para download no site http://www.muellersohn.com/ (link) pela módica quantia de 126,80€.


EN: Thank you all for reading, for the support and the lovely comments on my latest posts!
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PT: Obrigada a todos por aparecerem e apoiarem, além dos comentários simpáticos que me têm deixado!

6 comments:

A Rebelde Sem Casa said...

Como bibliotecária e aprendiz de costureira, tenho de concordar contigo - livros nunca são demais!!

Vicki said...

You make them sound like we all need them! The metric pattern making one particularly sounds interesting.

Sigrid said...

Agree on the second book, which I have as well and is a great source on tailoring. I'm particularly interested in the jackets and coats book. Something to add to my library at some point. Never enough books...

Faye Lewis said...

Wonderful additions Tany thanks for sharing By the way I talked with my Mother today and she says your interview was magnificent, especially the story about how you learned to sew!

Andy Du said...

Livros fantásticos. O 2° faz parte da lista de livros que eu quero comprar. Os outros não conhecia, mas vou investigá-los. Obrigada pela partilha.

Bunny said...

Thanks for the suggestions. I've hear much good about the Nordheim book. I have so many but that one seems to be yearning for a place in my library!