Thursday, December 2, 2010

Fur jacket and snood – Jaqueta de pelo e gola/cachecol

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)


Descrição: Jaqueta de corte muito simples, forrada, com mangas raglan e fecho de correr (zíper) na frente. Fiz uma espécie de gola cachecol em separado para complementar o modelo.

Molde: Revista BurdaStyle nº7 (Dezembro 2010), modelo 103. A gola separável foi confeccionada com um rectângulo de tecido que sobrou.

Alterações: Juntei os moldes da manga da frente e de trás para obter uma única peça da manga, com uma pinça no ombro (quanto menos costuras neste tecido de pelo, melhor). NOTA: a peça de molde que se vê na foto já está adaptada para cortar o forro, i.e., já tem baínhas de 1,5cm e já lhe foi tirada no topo a largura da vista menos od valores de costura:

Adicionei uns passadores para cinto nas costuras laterais feitos com cordão acetinado:


Detalhes da confecção: Um aspecto importante na confecção é o reforço de entretela. Este tecido (ou melhor, malha com pelo), não deve ser submetido ao calor, por isso usei entretelas de coser. Nas bainhas (incluindo das mangas) cosi tiras de entretela de alfaiate cortadas em viés sobre a largura das bainhas; estas tiras podem ser fixadas com pontos corridos, que não se vêm do direito por causa do pelo:


Nas cavas cosi fita de algodão, também por intermédio de pontos corridos (depois, ao fixar as mangas, as fitas ficam presas pelo pesponto da máquina):

O decote foi reforçado da mesma maneira:


Esta jaqueta apenas tem vistas no decote, não tem ao longo da frente; a entretela de alfaiate é cortada descontando os valores de costura e cosida com pontos corridos, como se pode ver:

Depois de unidas as vistas pela costura dos ombros, corta-se os valores de costura na orla da frente das vistas e do forro. O forro é confeccionado como o casaco, mas descontando a largura das vistas; para coser o forro às vistas passa-se um pesponto no decote do forro e golpeia-se, para se conseguir coser no redondo das vistas (na foto reparem na orla da vista que tem os valores de costura aparados):

Nesta fase temos a parte exterior com o fecho (zíper) aplicado (é 5cm mais curto, era o que tinha em casa) e a bainha das mangas feita. A bainha de baixo ainda está solta; só será cosida à mão depois do forro estar cosido às orlas da frente e orlas do decote.

E uma parte idêntica em forro e vistas, um pouco mais curta nas bainhas pois estas são cortadas com 1,5cm de largura em vez dos 4cm usados nas bainhas da parte exterior; ao longo do meio das costas tem também uma prega para facilitar o movimento:


O forro é aplicado exactamente como explicado na revista, por isso não vou repetir os passos todos.

Detalhes:

Com a gola:

Sem a gola:

O forro:



Conclusão: Este projecto foi iniciado no fim-de-semana e ontem, feriado em Portugal, estive o dia todo a trabalhar nele para o ver concluído à noitinha. Adorei o resultado e acho que a gola/cachecol e o cinto lhe deram um toque especial dentro das tendências actuais. E vocês, gostaram? Um abraço para todos(as)! Mais tarde poderão ver-me a usar a jaqueta no meu blog de guarda-roupa Já podem ver-me a usar a jaqueta aqui.


Description: Lined jacket with simple style lines, has raglan sleeves and front zipper closure. I made a separate snood to complement the model.

Pattern: December 2010 BurdaStyle magazine, model#103. The snood pattern is a simple rectangle; I used the remnant fur to make it.

Alterations: Joined the two sleeve pattern pieces into one single piece with a shoulder dart (the lesser seams the better when sewing with fur). NOTE: you are seeing the sleeve lining pattern here, I've already trimmed off the excess hem allowance and the facings width minus SAs width:

Also added belt loops on the side seams (stitched the seams encasing the sating cord made loops and knotted the ends on the wrong side for safety):


Construction details: As you all know, an important aspect in sewing is the reinforcements/interfacings; this fur fabric (or should I say knit fur, because the backing is actually a knit) shouldn’t be ironed so I used sew-in interfacings/reinforcement tapes. Applied bias cut stripes of canvas to the hem allowances (including the sleeves hem allowances). I used running stitches because they are effective and quick and can’t be noticed on the fur side:


Used cotton tape to reinforce the armholes and also used running stitches to baste it in place. They will be permanently stitched when the sleeves are set in place:

The same for the neckline:


This jacket doesn’t have front facings, just the neckline facings; the tailoring canvas was cut without SAs and stitched to the facings with small running stitches:

After stitching the shoulder seams on the facings and finishing the lining (the lining pattern is made from the jacket pattern taking off the facings width on the sleeves front and back edges and adding SAs on the newly obtained edges), I cut the front edge SA on both lining and facing (note the facing front edge in the next picture, it’s missing most of the SA). Then I reinforced the lining neckline with a row of stitching and clipped the SAs to be able to stitch the lining to the facing round edge:

At this point we have the outer shell with the zipper on; the sleeve hems are stitched and the jacket bottom hem is still undone (it will be handstitched after the lining is stitched to the jackets front edge and neckline):

And here’s the inner shell, identical to the outer shell except for the hem allowances that are 5/8” wide. There’s also a pleat at the center back seam for ease of movement:


The lining was applied exactly as per Burda’s instructions and there’s no need of repeating them here.

Details:

With the snood on:

Without the snood:

The lining:



Conclusion: I initiated this project last weekend and took advantage of yesterday’s Portuguese holiday, spending most of the day sewing. The jacket and the snood were finished yesterday evening, and I am quite happy with the end result. I think the snood and the skinny belt added a trendier touch to the jacket, very much like some runway fur jackets that I’ve seen. What do you guys think?

You’ll see me wearing the jacket over at Tany et La Mode as soon as I’m able to shoot myself wearing it! You can see me wearing the jaket here. Hugs to all and happy sewing!

37 comments:

Karin said...

As always, it looks great! What a good idea to make a matching snood! Thank you for showing us all your construction techniques.

morango & chocolate said...

Lindo!!! pena que aqui no Brasil, não faz tanto frio, para poder usar casacos tão lindos que você faz, quero aproveitar para agradecer as dicas que você da, elas são muito preciosas para mim....um enorrrme abraço.

Jubi

NancyDaQ said...

Very chic! The cowl adds a lot of versatility to the garment and can be worn with other outfits too. Great addition.

Victoria said...

My goodness, you're one of the fastest sewers I know! Great jacket. And of course it's so fitting for you since you're super trendy! Can't wait to see it on! You inspire me to do some trendier projects!

Gigi said...

Oh Tany, how chic! I have been wanting to make a faux fur jacket but I can't find any fur as beautiful as this!

Mom said...

Você fez bem em colocar a gola. Foi o complemento necessário.
Eu não sei porque a Burda tem mania de modelos sem gola... As golas normalmente fazem um bom acabamento e valorizam o rosto.

Dizer que você é rápida e fantásticamente eficiente seria chover no molhado, então não digo.
Beijos enormes,
Míriam

Dei said...

OMG! I love this. It is bonafide hotness. Can't wait to see how you style this.

Maricou said...

It is amazingly beautiful. I can't wiat to see you modeling it. It would be very much appreciated here in France as it is snowing amonth ahead of time

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

This is just awesome! Not only is the construction of the jacket superior but the styling of the pieces is high fashion. Love, love, love the added snood!

Els said...

Your new faux fur jacket and snood looks very elegant and chic.

If the fur is too thick at the sa you can cut or shave the fur to minimize bulk at the sa.

Vicki W said...

That's a really beautiful faux fur and a great jacket and snood!

Tany said...

Els: Thank you, that's a valuable tip, Els. I'm glad to hear from you, hope you're doing fine.

Marta said...

Estou agora a iniciar-me no mundo da costura.

O seu blogue é uma referência nos blogues de costura.... quase todos têm um link para ele, a justificação é simples, sempre actual, com peças lindas, com dicas e fotos excelentes.

Ainda ontem fiquei deliciada com o vestido vermelho do PACO e hoje fiquei de boca aberta com este casaco com gola...

Muitos parabéns.
Marta C.

Mamã Martinho said...

A pele que escolhes-te é linda! Adorei o casaco, mas com a gola! Fica mesmo giro!

Bjs

Mónica

Erica B. said...

Gorgeous Tany! It looks so warm and luxurious!

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

Very chic, love it. And thank you for the info on sewing for faux fur, I am about to make a wool coat with detachable fur collar, so very helpful.

KellyT said...

Your jacket is fabulous!! I love the addition of the collar. It made the jacket unique and very stylish. You have great vision.

Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Tany...you never cease to amaze me!
This is stunningly beautiful.

Uta said...

That looks so great! I didn't think much of this pattern at all, but you make me want a fur jacket just like yours.

Olga said...

The jacket is gorgeous -- style, fabric and construction. You look great in it -- nice job with styling! You are so my sewing hero :)

Amanda S. said...

I LOVE this, Tany! The addition of the snood makes it very expensive looking. I never think to make this kind of thing, but maybe I should.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

LOVE the snood idea. It's a fabulous ensemble.

Gail said...

From what I hear, this is just the thing for the cold winter in Europe. Love the snood.

Bunny said...

Tany, this is beautiful. The snood and over long belt really make it shine.

Vicki said...

Such a simple pattern but it looks fabulous! The snood is a great idea.

Adriana B. said...

Love it! I am sure it looks great without the snood as well, but in my opinion, the snood makes it.

AllisonC said...

What a neat idea to make a matching snood, it really works. I agree with you that the snood and belt take this basic looking pattern to a whole new level, along with your luxe fabric of course.

paco peralta said...

FAbulosa Tany, una obra de arte. Todo está perfecto, el tejido, la costura. Mi enhorabuena, me encanta esta prenda.

Cíntia said...

Aqui no Brasil não faz tanto frio, se fizesse já estaria me inspirando nesse modelo.
A gola deu sem sombra de dúvida um up-grade no modelo.
A criatividade faz muita diferença.
beijão
aprendizdecostura

senaSews said...

I'm usually not so much into this fur trend. But your jacket looks great - especially with the snood. Perfect for cold winter days. Great work!

Jacquie said...

I love just about everything you make, but this is one of my absolute favourites. It looks so high end designer, but also so cuddly and comfortable. The snood is inspired. Thanks for your wonderful blog too, your tips, particularly the tailoring tips, have helped me immeasurably at times.

Jenny said...

Wow. Just wow. I love the style. I'm going to keep an eye out for nice fake fur to make something similar for me!

Nancy K said...

As always, stylish and impeccably sewn. Wonderful!

j.kaori said...

Your addition of the snood is perfect --- it really elevates the jacket and makes it very special (and incredibly chic!). I've been obsessed with faux fur these days, but too intimidated to try. I'm inspired!

Oasis said...

I love very much your jacket and the snood is a very good idea.

Summerset said...

So luxe and warm! Love the snood idea - make the jacket warmer if needed and more versatile. Living where we get a true cold winter, that jacket looks very inviting.

Mardel said...

Oh Tany, this is fabulously fashionable and chic! The snood is the perfect finishing touch, and the fur you found is just gorgeous. As always beautifully executed.