Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Alguns detalhes das calças – Some details on the pants

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)
Sentiram a minha falta? Bem, eu senti muito a vossa. A razão pela qual tenho estado ausente tem a ver com a grande carga de trabalho que tenho tido (a qual já estava a prever e por isso saber à partida que ia ter pouco tempo para terminar este fato) e a uma fase de redefinição de funções na empresa onde trabalho. O tempo tem sido muito escasso e mesmo no fim-de-semana passado tive que trabalhar no sábado, o que me “roubou” a tão antecipada luz natural para coser à mão o drapeado da jaqueta, que continua com os alfinetes. Entretanto, sempre que posso tenho trabalhado nas calças e hoje vou mostrar alguns dos detalhes mais interessantes (as fotos seguintes foram clareadas para evidenciar melhor os detalhes).

Há três características interessantes nestas calças: a primeira é a forma como são construídos os bolsos, diferente da que estou habituada:
O vivo dos bolsos metidos é feito com o forro (cetim preto) da fundura do bolso! Depois coser a fundura à abertura (direito contra direito), as margens de costura são aparadas com 3mm e a fundura é virada para dentro sobre estas margens, criando o vivo de cetim que vêm na foto anterior. Outra característica interessante é a forma como são feitos os vivos do pequeno bolso para moedas, usando fita de algodão. Outro detalhe é o facto deste bolso ter uma vista interior do próprio tecido, para que não se veja o forro:
Vejam também as presilhas dos botões, feitas com fita de algodão onde foi previamente cosida fita de cetim um pouco mais estreita:
Outra característica interessante é o fecho invisível ser colocado na costura do meio atrás (na foto o fecho ainda não foi aplicado):
O feitio atrás também é feito com fita de algodão e fita de cetim cosida por cima, mas as fitas aqui são um pouco mais largas:
Os botões não ficaram féis na fotografia; o aro branco que vêm é na realidade feito de brilhantes!
E é tudo! Até à próxima!


Did you miss me? I sure did miss you guys! The reason behind this blogging absence is due to the tremendous amount of work at my office (I was already predicting this and that’s why I was so concerned about finishing this suit on time for the ceremony on the 29th) and also to a redefinition that has been going on at the company that employs me (big changes ahead!). Time has been so short and even during the weekends. I was requested to work on the past Saturday and that has stolen my natural light time for finishing the hand stitching required to tack the draping on the jacket (it’s still on the dressform with all those pins holding the pleats in place). With the little time I had left I started working on the pants and today I’ll show you some of their interesting details (the following pictures were brightened so the details show better).

There are three original and interesting features on these pants; the first one is the way the pockets are constructed, differently than the usual:
The pocket’s trim on the opening edge is actually made from the lining pocket bag (I used black satin as lining)! After attaching the pocket bag to the opening (right sides facing each other), the SAs are trimmed to 3mm and the pocket bag is turned to the inside OVER the SAs, creating the trim on the edge. Another interesting detail is the small welt pocket; the welts are made of twill tape and the pocket opening is faced with fashion fabric do you don’t see the lining inside when you push the welts apart!
Also note the button tabs, made of twill tape and narrower satin tape stitched to the twill tape:
Another interesting feature is the fact that the closure (invisible zipper) is placed on the center back seam (the invisible zipper is not yet applied here):
The back tabs are also made of a combination of twill tape and satin tape (this time the tapes are wider than the ones used on the pocket tabs):
The picture doesn’t make justice to the buttons! The white ring you see is actually sparkling!
And that’s all for now! See you next time!

23 comments:

Vicki said...

Those details are very interesting. Thanks for sharing. I love those pants and I think I could adapt the details to a pattern I already have.

Good luck in finishing on time!

Sigrid said...

Yes Tany, I did miss you! But when you post there's always so much to see. And this time it's very good that I will not fit in your pants, otherwise I would come to Portugal and steal these from you! Gorgeous details.

Summerset said...

The details are fabulous and what really make the pants interesting. Thank you for taking the time to show these to us. You'd never guess at the little details from the photos on the pattern envelope. Good luck on finishing on time and I hope everything gets better at your job.

Lori said...

Tany, I did miss you, but love all the details and pictures of your pants. Your work is amazing. Good luck at work and finishing on time.

Adrienne said...

You know you were missed!! Love the details of these pants!!!

AllisonC said...

They don't look like pants you can make in a rush! Superb details, perfectly executed.
I find it even stranger now that the photography used in this pattern photo was so dark and impossible to see what was going on. Now thanks to you we can see all these great details.

Vicki W said...

Absolutely beautiful details! Glad you are back.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Wow! What amazing details! They are soooooo lovely! Now this is why we sew.

Erica B. said...

You were definitely missed! The details are beautiful!

Berry said...

Oh my! I'm so happy you had time to tackle the pants despite the hectic time you had lately. You were missed but it was worth waiting, these details are breathtaking!

Chuana said...

Todas nós ficamos sem tempo para vir ao blog de vez em quando, eu estou numa dessas fases! Fico espantada com as coisas que consegues fazer mesmo tendo tanto trabalho! Espero que consigas acabar a tua jaqueta em breve para a poderes usar e mostrar aqui no blog!

Bjs
Chuana :)

doracouture said...

Carissima Tany!Detagli molto interesanti.vostro blog e un ispirazione per me,ti seguo sempre
un abbraccio e Buona Pasqua Dora

Ana Carina said...

Olá Tany!
O fato já está quase pronto! Muito original o fecho das calças na costura de trás...adoro os botões, mesmo não conseguindo ver os brilhantes e que combinam com os fios prateados do tecido. Boa escolha!
Beijinhos e boa Páscoa!

LauraLo said...

OOOh I missed you terribly. In fact, I was thinking of you last night, trying to remember when that wedding was and how is your Prada suit going. I love those details, your pockets are perfection and the idea of sewing satin ribbon to twill tape - absolutely great, I will definitely steal it!

MARIA ELENA said...

Un lujo de detalles, ¡que paciencia! me encanta muy bello el modelo del pantalón
Saludos

Kelroc said...

Goad you had some time to post.The details on your pants are fab.

paco peralta said...

Tany, gracias por las fotos de los detalles. Estos pantalones tienen sorpresas por doquier y además es muy original la mezcla de texturas que añaden al patrón ya de por sí muy bonito, un aspecto diferente. Un fuerte abrazo para tí y feliz Pascua. Paco

Sheila said...

Luv the details on your pants.

Marji said...

I'm loving the detail on those pants. Thanks for all the great photos and Descriptions.
Hope you get a breather soon from work.

rosa said...

INTERESSANTE OS DETALHES DESTAS CALÇAS,BEM DIFERENTES DO QUE VEMOS,GOSTO DO PROMENOR DO FECHO ATRAS,ACHO QUE ASSIM ATÉ AS CALÇAS ACENTAM MELHOR.
O TEMPO TA SE A APERTAR PRA TI E COM TANTO TRABALHO,ESPERO QUE CONSIGAS ACABAR TUDO A TEMPO.
EU ANDO A PREPARAR UMA EXPOSIÇÃO,TBM ANDO A DORMIR BEM TARDE.
BJINHO AMIGA
ANIMO
ROSA

LMH said...

Like everyone else, I want to steal the idea of sewing the satin ribbon to the twill tape; that looks fantastic. Wonderful details on those pants; I too wouldn't have guessed from the pattern envelope. Thanks so much for taking time to share all this when you're so busy.

Linda said...

Love the details of this!

Mamã Martinho said...

Este fato vai ficar sem dúvida um espetáculo! os promenores das calças são muito giros e sem dúvida vao adordar ainda mais o trabalho. Espero que termines a tempo!

bjs

Mónica