Sunday, January 13, 2008

Testes com entretelas – Testing the interfacings

Hoje vou mostrar os resultados dos testes que fiz para determinar a melhor abordagem a adoptar na confecção deste fato. Como sabem, desde início considerei a possibilidade de experimentar os métodos mais tradicionais de alfaiataria, principalmente porque tinha lido que o crepe de lã pode ser difícil de entretelar com entretelas termo-colantes; no entanto, antes de me atirar de cabeça, convém fazer alguns testes, principalmente porque não estou suficientemente familiarizada com os materiais de alfaiataria. Podem ver algumas amostras que utilizei para tirar as minhas conclusões sobre que método/materiais usar:
Today I intend to share with you the results from my tests with interfacings, which lead to the choice of the best approach for this project, in terms of interfacing and methodology. As you know, since I started this project, I considered the possibility of using the traditional approach into tailoring, mainly because I read somewhere that fusing the wool crepe could be difficult and not produce the best results. Since I have limited experience with both wool crepe and the traditional tailoring methods and materials, I decided to run some tests. Next you can see some of the samples that I produced to determine how this fabric would behave with different kinds/methods of interfacing:
Primeiro comecei por testar a entretela fininha de malha que já usei em diversos projectos e que até agora me deu muito bons resultados a reforçar tecidos leves como o cetim e até tecidos elásticos. Esta entretela é elástica no sentido transversal mas não tem elasticidade no sentido do comprimento (Isabelle, esta é a mesma entretela que te aconselhei em Paris! Não parei de pensar em ti quando estava a fazer estes testes!).
First I tested the thin knit fusible that I've been using for several of my garments (mainly as underlining, reinforcing satin and stretch fabrics). This interfacing has no stretch lengthwise but it has some give crosswise (Isabelle, this is the same interfacing I told you about in Paris! I couldn't stop thinking of you when I was running these tests!).

Tenho que dizer que fiquei agradavelmente surpreendida com os resultados; esta entretela adere perfeitamente, não deixa marcas no exterior, não descola e não forma bolhas; além disso cola a baixa temperatura, bastando pousar o ferro com alguma pressão, sem vapor, durante 5-7 segundos. Adoptei imediatamente esta entretela como forro de empastar (uma camada aplicada ao tecido no avesso, cuco objectivo é dar mais corpo e fazer de escudo para que não se transfiram marcas de pontos para o exterior). Se não tivesse obtido tão bons resultados com esta entretela, a alternativa seria usar um forro de empastar não termo-aderente, como a organza de seda. Além de a usar para empastar, vou também aplicá-la nas vistas (incluindo as da bainha) e na parte superior da gola.
Well, I have to say I was very pleased with the results. This interfacing adheres like a charm, it doesn't alter the drape of the wool crepe that much and it shields the fabric providing it with a little more support. It doesn't come off and leaves no marks or bubbles on the right side. Besides, it's fused at low temperature and no steam; just a little pressure for 5-7 seconds is enough. I will use it mainly for underlining the entire garment. If my results weren't this satisfying, the alternative would be using silk organza (sew-in) for underlining. I will also use this knit interfacing for reinforcing the facings and uppercollar.

Em seguida resolvi tentar aplicar a entretela de crina sobre o crepe, depois de o reforçar com a entretela de malha fininha:
Next I tried to padstitch the hair canvas to the wool crepe reinforced with the thin knit fusible:
Esta entretela é cosida e não colada; usa-se uma agulha curta e fina e fio de bordar ou fio de seda, da cor do tecido. Fazem-se pontos em espinha, tendo cuidado para a agulha apanhar apenas um fio do tecido que está por baixo. Podem ver que do lado direito não se notam os pontos:
The hair canvas is a sewn-in interfacing, meaning that it has to be sewn to the fabric. This is achieved through padstitching; I used a very fine short needle and thin embroidery thread matching the fabric color. The diagonal stitches are done in such manner that only one thread is caught by the needle on the wool crepe (right side, underneath the interfacing). You can see that the padstitching is not visible on the right side:
No entanto cheguei à conclusão que esta entretela é demasiado grossa para este tecido. Uma entretela de crina mais suave e fina talvez resultasse melhor, mas apenas tive acesso ao tipo que experimentei. Ainda não é desta que vou experimentar os métodos mais tradicionais, mas tenho a certeza que não faltarão oportunidades no futuro; além do mais, é mais fácil do que estava à espera. Talvez por sempre ter gostado de coser à mão, adorei fazer o ponto espinha e mal posso esperar para utilizar esta técnica! Mas de momento, o que me interessa é obter os melhores resultados com os materiais que possuo e sem dúvida que gostei mais das amostras com entretela colada.
In spite of this, this type of hair canvas feels too heavy on the wool crepe. A thinner and softer kind would work best but unfortunately this was the only kind I found on sale locally. I have yet to try the traditional tailoring methods, but not on this project; I believe I'll have plenty of future opportunities. I did love the padstitching process, perhaps because I am very fond of hand sewing. I can hardly wait to put all that I've learned into practice! But for this project I must focus on obtaining the best results with what I have and I have no doubts that I liked the end result of the fusibles better.

Prosseguindo com os testes, além de experimentar mais dois tipos de entretela termo-colante, também experimentei aplicá-la sobre tecido já reforçado com a entretela de malha fininha, obtendo sempre excelentes resultados. A entretela que mostro a seguir é tecida, um pouco mais forte que a de malha fininha. Aplica-se exercendo pressão com um jacto de vapor e depois mantendo a pressão por cerca de 10 segundos. A temperatura deve ser um pouco superior (por exemplo entre a lã e o algodão) e deve usar-se um pano entre o ferro e a entretela. Lembrem-se sempre de perguntar no local de venda como se aplicam as difentes entretelas e façam alguns testes primeiro.
Proceeding with the tests, I not only tried different kinds of fusibles but also applied them to a previously fused sample. The results were always satisfactory. This next interfacing is woven, a little heavier than the thin knit fusible; it's applied setting the iron between the wool and cotton setting and first giving it a burst of steam, then maintaining pressure for about 10 seconds. Remember that you should always use a press cloth when fusing. Always read the manufacturer's directions and run some tests first.
Pude constatar que o resultado da sua aplicação é excelente, mesmo se for aplicada em cima da outra:
I obtained excellent results, even on top of the knit fusible:

Tenciono usar esta entretela para as frentes e gola inferior, para reforçar as aberturas das mangas e o cós da saia. As lapelas e o pé da gola (que faz parte do molde da gola) vão receber uma segunda camada desta entretela.
I think I will use this woven interfacing on the fronts and undercollar, sleeve openings and the shaped waistband on the skirt. The lapels and the collar stand (included on the collar pattern) are going to take a second layer of this interfacing.

Em seguida testei uma entretela de malha mas que é reforçada com fios tecidos; não sendo elástica, é no entanto suave, embora mais grossa que a de malha fininha:
Next I tested this weft insertion type, heavier that the thin knit fusible and with no give lengthwise and crosswise, yet very soft and malleable:
Aplica-se da mesma forma que a entretela de malha fininha. Vou usar esta entretela cortada em viés para reforçar as bainhas.
It's applied using the same directions as for the thin knit fusible. I'll use this kind cut on the bias for hem reinforcement.
E é tudo o que tenho para mostrar até ao momento. Hoje já cortei o fato e já comecei a aplicar as entretelas e a marcar tudo com alinhavos. É um processo que vai demorar, por isso o próximo artigo será sobre as referências sobre alfaiataria que consultei, numa pesquisa extensa que fiz para me inteirar sobre as melhores técnicas e materiais. Não posso deixar também de agradecer à Els e ao Paco pela ajuda e apoio que me têm dado, tanto em conselhos como em técnicas e materiais. Nestes últimos dias tenho aprendido bastante e uma parte importante do que aprendi devo-o a estes dois Amigos. Obrigada!
And that's all I have for the moment. Yesterday I finished cutting out the suit and I started on the interfacing/thread tracing process. This will take some time and in the meanwhile I intend to list the most important references I found for tailoring, following an extensive research on the best methods and notions. I also would like to thank Els and Paco for helping me out with their expert advice on best techniques and materials. A great lot from what I’ve learned so far on this matter I owe to them both. Thank you!

También me gustaría agradecer a Els y a Paco por su preciosa ayuda y su consejo experto en las mejores técnicas y materiales. Una gran parte de lo que he aprendido hasta ahora en esta materia lo debo a ellos. ¡Gracias!

25 comments:

Mary Beth said...

Very interesting post, Tany. Fusibles, for me, are always a problem to be solved, again and again.

Adrienne said...

This is really interesting Tany, but I love how you documented what each result was. Great info.

Sheila said...

Thanks for the wealth of information. I treat your posts as a one-on-one class. I'm always taking notes...lol

Berry said...

I learnt a great lot with these explanations. I don't know if I'll ever use these techniques but it is very very interesting.

Erica B. said...

This is great advice!

christina said...

Great post! I should really start testing different interfacings, I usually just choose one and hope for the best.

paco peralta said...

Tany.- excelente tutotial. Es necesario hacer las pruebas de entretela porque existen tantos tipo en el mercado que nos hacemos un lío. Gracias por resolvernos esta situación. Un fuerte abrazo, Paco

Anonymous said...

Can you give us the brand names of the interfacings used? Thanks!
Kathy

Vicki said...

Thanks Tany, this will be invaluable when I work on my jackets.

Why did you decide to underline with the fusible? I would think to give the fabric more body yet you say it doesn't change it much?

Tany said...

Kathy: I really don't know the brand name for these interfacings! I buy them by the meter at a notions store. I will try to find out when I come back there.

Vicky: You're right, it sounds like I contradicted myself. What I meant was: the knit fusible gives the fabric more body (slightly) but it doesn't alter its drape very much. The fabric alone is very thin, and it does wrinkle a little - with the underlining there will be less wrinkling; with the fabric alone, the seam allowances will leave an imprint on the right side, even if I use brown paper as I press; with the knit fusible the wool crepe is shielded against these imprints (I still have to be very careful when pressing though). If I didn't underline with this knit fusible, I would probably use silk organza for the same purposes. This thin knit fusible is the only kind of fusible I would use for underlining light to medium weight fabrics without altering their drape. It is very thin and supple.

loopylulu said...

So informative. I haven't made that many garments yet, but currently I just use the same interfacing weight to interface everything. This really got me thinking.

dawn said...

You've made such wise interfacing decisions. I have experience with each you mentioned. Here in the US, believe we call the lightweight knit with stretch in one direction "French Fuse."

I have also used fusible weft insertion (which I like for a light tailored collar, cuff, hem)and the woven fusible (great for crisp applications) and like both a lot.

Great post!

Isabelle said...

Dear Tany,

You have been very productive while I was away! I have just read the 6 entries that I had missed. Your suit is turning out so well - the muslin is beautiful in itself! But this couture garment is bound to turn out well, what with all the care and precautions you are taking with every single detail.

I am happy that you have been able to sew. I hope that your break over Christmas was beneficial and refreshing, and that your work is slightly less crazy this year!

Congratulations on your first blog anniversary. I discovered you a few months after you started your blog, but making your acquaintance and having you as a friend is definitely one of the highlights of 2007!

We received your card! It is gorgeous. Thanks so much!

Big hugs to you, ma chère Tany! Gros bisous.

Marcia Hilleshein said...

Maravilhoso!
Tudo muito detalhado e feito com muito cuidado... Sempre q te visito aprendo um pouco mais.
Bjs.

LauraLo said...

Hey, such an useful post!
I love that knit fusible myself, I make sure I always have at least 5 m in my stash because I use it on everything. I like it so much that I'd rather use several layers of it than heavier interfacing (but then I like only 2 or 3 of the interfacings that I can find here and usually they are too heavy for what I need).

Mamã Martinho said...

Nunca me passou pela ideia de que houvesse tantos tipos de entretela. Ainda bem que conseguiste aproveitar ao máximo as caracteristicas de cada uma para te permitir aprefeiçoar o fato.

Bjs

Mónica

007gurl said...

You just gave me a lot to think about the next time I purchase interfacing.

Audrey said...

Olá amiga, já voltei das férias mas não estou 100% mas se Deus quizer logo vai passar. Agora mal posso esperar pra ver como vai ficar mais uma obra de arte sua.
Beijos

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

This is a very interesting post, with lots of good information.
Ann

rosa said...

Bem Tany
concordo com a Silvia,havias de fazer um livro com tecnicas de costura,acho que ia ser um estrondo!!
COMPRADORES JA TINHAS MUITOS PRA COMEÇAR,OS TEUS FÃS!!
tens muita simplicidade na explicaçao de vários temas,e isso faria jeito a muita gente!!
se eu tivesse capital,patrocinava te,não te rias,a sério!!
boa continuaçao
bjs
ROSA

Berry said...

Thanks for your comment Tany,

I wondered if you could advise me as you know Phildar's patterns. The sleeves bracelet of the top I knitted should be stretchy. In the Phildar catalogue they say to use some lastex thread. I can't find any, what would you replace it with to give these bracelets the stretch they're lacking? Thanks a lot in advance!

Marji said...

Thanks Tany for this post. Great stuff. I'm about to cut into my sisters lightweight wool crepe today and am going to go through this process also, as I really don't want to sew in all the underlining on her suit which is using 5 yds of wool crepe.
I'll get back to you with the US trade names for the various interfacings, but I'm going to use products that look similar to what you've got on here.
Easy Knit, Cool Fuse, Sof-Knit, and Angel Weft.

Your blog is an invaluable resource. Thanks again for publishing.

Tany said...

Obrigada a todos(as)!
Thank you all!
Gracias, Paco!

I would like to welcome Ann's Fashion Studio and Loopylulu to Couture et Tricot!

Isabelle: It's a joy hearing from you! I'm grald you are OK, my friend! Big Hugs to you!

Marji: Thank you! Coming from a highly skilled dressmaker like yourself, your words mean a lot to me! You are a good friend to me and you are always willing to help others. Kudos to you, Marji!

Anonymous said...

Hello Every one,

We are Chinese FUSIBEL INTERLINING manufactory.

If you have any request of interlining please connect with us:

info@stk-interlining.com

We are pleasure to make friends with you and supply our best service.

Amy Liu

Anonymous said...

We are Chinese FUSIBEL INTERLINING supplier.

Our website is:
www.stk-interlining.com

If you have any request or inquiry of our fusible interlining, please connect with us:

info@stk-interlining.com

fax:0086-512-52492588