Saturday, October 20, 2007

Forrar as calças - Full lining the trousers

Viva! Hoje voltamos à costura, com mais alguns detalhes da confecção das calças, desta vez o forro. O forro das calças é muito fácil de fazer; basta cortar outras calças em forro, exceptuando os bolsos e o cós. Também não se inclui no forro o trespasse para a carcela. Para cortar as calças sem os bolsos usa-se o molde da frente com o molde do encaixe da anca sobreposto (o molde de trás não precisa de modificações):
Hi! Today we are back to sewing, with a few more details on the trousers' construction process, namely the full lining. Full lining a pair of trousers is much easier than most people expect and can be done by cutting and assembling another pair of trousers (using the same pattern) in lining; you just exclude the pockets, the waistband and the fly-front facing extensions. For this I pinned the side-front section to the front pattern and turned the fly-front facing extension to the inside, and used the obtained pattern for cutting the lining (the back pattern is used without any alteration):
As calças em forro são cosidas como normalmente (com pinças e pregas assentes para o lado oposto de forma a reduzir o volume das costuras no cós), deixando a abertura para o fecho sem ser cosida e depois colocadas dentro das calças em tecido, avesso contra avesso, e presas com alfinetes ao longo da linha de aplicação do cós. Agora é necessário dar forma ao forro à volta da carcela, golpeando-o, dobrando os valores de costura para dentro e cosendo em redor à mão:
The lining trousers are assembled as normally (darts and pleats are pressed to the opposite direction, this way reducing bulk), the zipper opening is left unstitched. The lining trousers are placed inside the fabric trousers, wrong sides facing each other, and pinned along the waist. The lining must be clipped and its SAs turned to the inside, all around the fly-front opening, gaining its shape; after shaping and pinning the lining all around the zipper opening, the lining is hand-stitched in place:
Nesta altura temos as calças com o forro alinhavado ao longo da costura de colocação do cós; tanto o forro como as calças ainda não têm as bainhas feitas.
At this point we have the trousers and the lining (both not hemmed) basted together along the waistline.
Antes de mostrar as calças prontas ainda quero mostrar os detalhes da aplicação do cós enformado, o que farei para a próxima! Antes de me despedir, quero agradecer à Summerset e à Laura os presentes com que me mimaram! Sinto-me abençoada por ter tão boas amigas de todo o mundo!
Before showing you the finished trousers I'd like to share the shaped waistband construction process – coming next! I'd also like to thank Summerset and Laura for these fantastic gifts! I feel so blessed for having such great friends all around the world!
Summerset, my gifts to you are on their way! I hope you like them!

A Laura e eu partilhamos um gosto especial por madrepérola, daí este presente que condiz uns brincos que mostrei aqui. Obrigada Laura! Estou a preparar um presente para ti também!
Laura and I both share the love for mother-of-pearl and this is why she sent me this lovely necklace which is a perfect match for the earrings shown in this blog entry. Laura, you will receive a surprise package soon!
Além de ter ganho estes presentes também ganhei um molde Simplicity no sorteio do podcast Sew Forth Now (obrigada Lori e equipa Simplicity!) e também o livro The Collection sorteado pela Adrienne! Isto é que é sorte!
Besides getting these wonderful gifts I also won a Simplicity pattern from the Sew Forth Now podcast (Thank you Lori and the Simplicity team!) and the book The Collection from Adrienne!! How lucky can a girl be?

12 comments:

Isabelle said...

Another great step-by-step, Tany! You got great gifts and I was excited to see you won one of the Simplicity patterns! :D

Adrienne said...

I can't wait to see those pants!! I love your tutorials! I have them printed out so I can find them easier!! LOL

Summerset said...

Beautifully made. If and when I make a pair of black trousers, I'm going to fully line them. I think they're such a great wardrobe item - casual or professional.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany ~ congrats on the gifts and the winnings! The lining tutorial is wonderful as usual!

Sigrid said...

Great tutorial again Tany. Looking forward to your finished pants.
Nice presents too.

Still want to thank you for the link on the alteration for pants. These will certainly be helpfull for a lot of people. I must have missed that one, or just not remembered (I can work with an instruction only in words, but pictures are easier to remember).

Vicki said...

Lucky you - gifts and prizes! Your pants are looking good. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Tany said...

Thank you all!

Sigrid: You're welcome! I'm a visual learner too!

LauraLo said...

Great tutorial, Tany! I never made lined trousers, only underlined so this comes in handy. Would you recommend lining slouchier pants or closer fitting too? Also, does the lining change the feel/drape of the fabric a lot?
I'm really happy you like the necklace, as we say in my country "wear it in good health and with pleasure"!

Mamã Martinho said...

Tu mereces todas as amigas que tens pois também és um grande amiga! Adorei o colar em madrepérola!

Bjs

Mónica
PS- Fico á espera de ver as calças concluidas.

tcusic said...

As always, your work is glorious to look at, and these pants are no exception.

I was recently "tagged" and instructed to tag 7 others. So.... you've been tagged. I hesitate to even suggest you interrupt your sewing - but I had to follow instructions.

Tany said...

Laura: These are my first full lined trousers!
As for lining slouchier or close fitting trousers, I think it's possible and I've seen it made (like nude stretch lining on a white pair of trousers). It all depends on the fabric and the lining fabric. My experience with these tousers: the drape was slightly altered yes, but I'm pleased with the overall result for this style. The trousers feel wonderfully well and they almost don't wrinkle (the creases don't stay permanent too, wich is not what I intended but It's ok; this has nothing to do with the lining)

Tcusic: Hi! I was tagged before so I must redirect you to that specific blog entry! I will leave a comment at your tagging post later! Thank you for thinking of me!

Carlo said...

Good Job! :)