PT Sumário: Aguardei com grande ansiedade e expectativa a chegada da revista BurdaStyle de Outubro, pois sabia que continha o molde deste blazer assertoado muito original. Neste artigo encontram ótimas ideias para o confecionar!
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EN Summary: I was eagerly expecting the arrival of the BurdaStyle October issue, because I knew this very original double breasted blazer pattern was featured. In this article you'll find a lot of inspiration to make your own!
Artigo escrito em colaboração com a revista BurdaStyle Portugal - This article was written in collaboration with BurdaStyle magazine Portugal.
PT: Além do tom de vermelho vivo, esta jaqueta impressiona pelos detalhes: a gola tem lapelas retangulares e os ombros são estendidos por um recorte na cabeça da manga. A linha assertoada e cintada é assim evidenciada, criando um efeito visual de cintura mais estreita. Na minha opinião, este modelo peca apenas pela falta de bolsos, detalhe que pode facilmente ser acrescentado (sugiro bolsos metidos na costura do painel frontal, sejam invisíveis ou adornados com um vivo/pestana retangular; em alternativa, bolsos de chapa grandes pespontados à imagem da gola e lapelas).
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EN: Besides the bright red color, this jacket features other eye-catching details like the rectangular shaped lapels and the original shaped sleeve cap which extends the shoulders; this feature will enhance even more the slim waist effect created by the close fitting double-breasted waist. In my opinion this design is brilliant, only lacking the pockets! I suggest adding in-seam pockets along the front side panel seam; pocket openings may be adorned with a rectangular welt (matching the shape of the lapels); other option would be large patch pockets with decorative top-stitching.
PT: O desenho técnico ilustra melhor o feitio das mangas:
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EN: The line-drawings illustrate the sleeve cap design better:
PT: O mesmo molde, só que um pouco mais curto e em tecido de lã antracite, é apresentado no modelo 114; esta versão fez-me recordar de imediato a coleção de pronto-a-vestir Outono 2019 da Christian Dior:
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EN: The same pattern is presented in a shorter version made of dark grey woolen (model 114), and when I saw it, the Christian Dior Fall 2019 RTW show came to my mind:
PT: EM baixo podem ver alguns exemplos de blazers assertoados e cintados dessa coleção (créditos de imagem: vogue.com):
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EN: Below there's a few examples of double-breasted waist-slimming garments from the Dior runaway (image credits: vogue.com):
PT: Alguns exemplos de blazers de marcas de luxo que poderão facilmente replicar usando este molde, incluem este blazer assertoado da Dior, confecionado em tecido de seda e lã e que está à venda por 3400€ (aqui):
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EN: Luxury brands provide us with great inspiration for such jackets: this wool and silk double-breasted bar jacket from Dior retails for 3,400 euros (here) and it shows a close resemblance with the BurdaStyle magazine model:
PT: Este blazer assertoado vermelho da Proenza Schouler é confecionado de tecido misto de lã com elastano e tem um bolso de peito, bolsos de chapa na frente e atrás tem uma banda contrastante em preto. Está à venda por 1340£ (aqui).
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EN: This red double-breasted blazer form Proenza Schouler is made of a wool-elastane blend fabric and it features a chest pocket, large patch pockets and a contrasting large black band on the back. It retails for 1,340£ (here).
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EN: One last example with very interesting details: this Rejina Pyo pink blazer has very interesting darting details and peak lapels, along with brand's signature "pebble" buttons with different shapes. It retails for 396€ (including 40% sale discount) here:
PT: Nesta mesma revista BurdaStyle têm um outro molde que se assemelha ao estilo de saias largas midi presente na coleção de Christian Dior:
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EN: In this same magazine issue there's also a skirt pattern that echoes the style of Fall 2019 RTW Dior collection midi flared skirts:
PT: Trata-se do modelo 120, que dentro da mesma linha tem um feitio muito original:
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EN: It's model 120, which falls in the same line of skirts, adding some interesting seam/pleat detailing:
PT: Espero que tenham gostado e achado as minhas sugestões úteis! Ambos os moldes estão na minha lista para o Outono!
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EN: I hope you guys have found my suggestions useful! Both BurdaStyle patterns are in my Fall sewing list!
I haven't received my October issue yet - and now I want to make this jacket. I saw the preview and had not noticed the shoulders, a nice detail. Perhaps I will add this to my fall sewing list :)
ReplyDeleteI'm not normally a fan of double-breasted jackets, but this one is unique enough to add to my list. And that skirt is so very interesting.
ReplyDeletehttps://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/fendi/slideshow/collection#8
ReplyDeletehttps://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/fendi/slideshow/collection#9
I don't wear double breasted jackets well so tend to stay away but I must say this one is inspirational. The lapel design is so new and fresh and something I would love to see on a traditionally opening jacket. Thanks for the highlights, Tany.
ReplyDeleteMy copy also hasn't arrived yet but I am looking forward to getting my hands on it. Both the lovely jacket and skirt look terrific, I can't wait. Hopefully it will be with me by the weekend, but my last issue was very late and I had to chase it up. Boohoo.
ReplyDeleteI loved this issue! That jacket is fantastic and a must make.
ReplyDelete