Conjunto Donna Karan (V2064) e mais um macacão – V2064 (Donna Karan top and pants) and another jumpsuit

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Foi um fim-de-semana em cheio:

Modelo original: V2064 Conjunto de calça e top em Jersey de Donna Karan (opções B e D) (cortei o tamanho 12)

Descrição: o top é justo e traçado na frente, formando um drapeado que se prende com uma presilha e um colchete. A opção B é assimétrica, tendo uma manga apenas. Toda a orla superior e superior da manga e ombro levam um elástico na bainha para ajustar melhor ao corpo. As calças, levam pinças e elástico; no molde são omissas as costuras laterais (a frente e as costas forma um único molde da perna). Os tecidos aconselhados são malhas com elasticidade nas duas direcções (apenas usar tecidos de malha com elasticidade para este modelo).

Tecido: Jersey 92%poliéster 8%elastano. Para as costuras usei uma agulha fina especial para malhas (ponta arredondada), a corta-e-cose para os remates e agulha dupla (também especial para malhas).

Detalhes:

O cós é cosido de uma forma simples: depois de confeccionadas as calças cose-se o elástico directamente no cós (no avesso) deixando uma pequena margem para virar para dentro; depois vira-se o elástico para dentro e dá-se uns pequenos pontos a segurar nas costuras centrais e nas pinças. Podem ver que do lado de fora não se vêm costuras:

A forma como o drapeado da frente é construído é muito inteligente: a parte interior tem uma presilha onde se fazem umas argolas de linha para prender com o colchete que fica na ponta do drapeado exterior:


Fica assim depois de apertado:



O decote assimétrico e a parte exposta da manga são ajustados ao corpo com a ajuda de um elástico passado dentro da costura:

O canto da bainha na frente fica com este aspecto por dentro:

E por fora:

Para as bainhas usei o Steam-a-Seam Lite que a Margi me enviou há uns tempos; cola a bainha permanentemente, mas depois de usar o top, com o esticar da peça, notei um ligeiro ondulado. Para disfarçar estou a pensar coser a bainha por cima com a agulha dupla.

Além deste conjunto ainda fiz um macacão de Jersey preto, usando o mesmo molde da revista Manequim do macacão com estampado assimétrico:

Conclusão: O conjunto e o macacão são óptimos para as férias e fiquei muito satisfeita com ambos; o molde V2064 está categorizado como fácil, mas na minha opinião é um modelo para pessoas com alguma prática, principalmente se quiserem primar nos acabamentos. Já o planeava fazer há muito tempo e agora surgiu a oportunidade pois decotes com o ombro de fora são uma tendência actual!

Tenho em stock muitas malhas estampadas e sólidas e preciso de ganhar espaço no meu armário de tecidos, por isso vou fazer uns tantos modelos de malha, que são sempre mais rápidos e fáceis! Até à próxima!

This is the result of a sewing weekend:

Original model: V2064 Misses’ top & pants by Donna Karan (view B and D) (I cut a 12):

Description: The close-fitting wrap top has right front (cut-in-one with back) forming drape and tab with hook/thread loops closing; the B version has an asymmetric neckline with drop-off shoulder and one sleeve with the top exposed. The pants are straight, are shaped by darts and an elasticized waistline. The fabrics are two-way stretch knits only.

Fabric used: 82%polyester 8%elastan jersey. I used a thin jersey needle (ball point) for seaming, the serger for the SA finishing and a jersey twin needle.

Details:

The waistband is very simple to make: after the pants are stitched together, the elastic is sewn over the waistline edge (on the wrong side) leaving a small fabric edge to turn in; the elasticized edge is then turned in and tacked down to the seams and darts. On the outside there’s no visible seaming, as you can see:

The front draping is very cleverly constructed: the inner layer has a tab with thread loops (it crosses a seam opening at the right side seam) and there’s a hook on the end extremity of the draped overlap:


This is how it looks:



The asymmetric neckline edge and the shoulder opening have a casing and elastic, adjusting the garment to the body:

This is the mitered hem corner on the front:

On the outside:

For hemming I used the Lite Steam-A-Seam that Margi was so kind to send me a while back; it glues the seams permanently and it’s really easy to apply (it sticks to the fabric just by finger pressing and it fuses permanently when ironed). After wearing the top once I noticed a slight rippling so I plan on making a row of double topstitching, just in case.

During the weekend I also managed to make another Manequim jumpsuit; this time I used black jersey and I think it looks great:

Conclusion: Both the Donna Karan knit set and black jumpsuit are great vacation clothes and I’m very happy with then. V2064 is rated “easy” but I believe there’s some difficulty to this pattern if you want to make it look really good and well made, so I’d rate it intermediate instead. I was planning to make it for quite some time and now the opportunity presented itself. Both asymmetric necklines and draped tops are strong trends for this season.

I have many knits in my stash and I need to free some storage space, so expect more knit garments soon! Happy Sewing to all!

40 comments:

  1. Both outfits are fabulous! I have a jumpsuit I plan to make soon! You look great!

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  2. omg. I gasped a little I thought the blue Vogue was so beautiful. I never even looked TWICE at that pattern. Wowser!

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  3. Both outfits are gorgeous! That blue top looks better on you than on the pattern envelope!

    On a different subject- I was wondering what kind of dress form you have and if you like it? I'm in the market for one.

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  4. Interesting wrapping and I do love that blue color! Nice to see another jumpsuit too, it looks a bit different from the one in color since this one is all in black.

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  5. Gorgeous outfits! That blue and grey combo is fabulous. Thanks for the great detail pics.

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  6. The blue top is so unique! I think that it would even look wonderful if you lengthen the pattern for the top into a dress.

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  7. Tany,
    Once again, your work is beautiful.

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  8. Gorgeous...both garments are just gorgeous on you!

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  9. You already know I LOVE IT! I pulled out my jumpsuit pattern this morning! LOL

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  10. I love the Donna Karan Outfit! It does not only look fabulous on you but you also made it very beautifully!

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  11. Wow! The top and trousers are gorgeous, but I must say, I especially love the jumpsuit.

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  12. Faulous! Love the color and style of the DK. The DK top would make a great dress, too with a little more length.

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  13. All your creations are fantastiques and really beautiful. Speciall this one is tres chic and sexy. You are a professional but if you don't mind please change the color of your background from black to white. Black doesn't go at all with these pretty dresses.

    Amy

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  14. I love your outfits and I just love your style. I wish I could get that much done in one weekend.

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  15. Oh Tany, I have the Donna Karan pattern for years lying and never was truly inspired by it. But I have to say, that your piece is truly inspiring. Have to see if I can pluck up the energy and give it a go this time.
    The jumpsuit is simply cute!

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  16. Everything looks wonderful! I guess you are going on vacation? Those will pack really well. That's one thing I don't like about traveling - being wrinkly.

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  17. I absolutely adore that DK top, this is one of the patterns I've missed getting or had something that had to be aquired more acutely, but I guess some ebay fishing is gonna happen soon...The jumpsuit is great too:-)

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  18. Both outfits are beautiful, but that DK is stunning!

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  19. Gorgeous outfits, Tany! They look very comfortable as well as very stylish. :)

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  20. Both outfits are absolutely stunning on you! You wear these so well. They are not only very very stylish but I'm sure very comfortable :) I'm anxious to see your other knit creations. Enjoy your time off :)

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  21. Wow!! Esta blusa azul (turquesa) ficou super linda em voce. Como sempre, trabalho impecavel. Obrigada por partilhar.

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  22. This is so gorgeous on you! It is a very stylish look with that asymmetrical neckline.

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  23. Great Donna Karan oufit! Looks fabulous on you. The jumpsuit too is very you.

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  24. It's always a treat when my blog reader pops up with your blog in it! I love both of these outfits on you and as you say they make perfect vacation wear and are bang on trend - gorgeous.

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  25. Wow, Tany the blue and gray out fit is just gorgeous. Thank you for sharing.

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  26. Hot! Hot! Hot! Fabulous Tany!

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  27. Oh, I love this top, very clever construction. My daughter has been looking at asymetric tops this weekend, she might like it.

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  28. great as always, I love the color of the blue you got for the top, that is such a nice color for summer and you will wear that body suit to death it is such an easily accessorized garment for your summer closet. Take care

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  29. Espetáculo! Adorei os conjuntos, mas em especial o top! Tenho uma camisola assim, só com uma manga, mas a tua ficou bem mais gira.

    Bjs e boas férias

    Mónica

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  30. Ohhhh, you made that Donna Karan outfit! It looks wonderful and reminds me I have had it in the stash for a while.

    Both of the outfits are just fabulous! Congratulations Tany, you look really gorgeous.

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  31. Ohhhh, that Donna Karan outfit is gorgeous on you.

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  32. You wear that so well. And your construction, as always, is impeccable.

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  33. Oh Tany, this looks so chic and sophisticated! Great color- combination, too.

    Greetings from CH:
    berry

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  34. Lovely Outfits and the DK Top is awesome.

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  35. Those are some fantastic outfits!!

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  36. that's such a cool design, I never noticed it before! Te cut-out shoulder on the long sleeved side is a great detail, too. You'll look like a million dollars on your holidays!

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  37. You'll be going to Cannes or something similar on your holidays don't you? You certaily have the outfit for fashionable places! That top is exquisite on you.

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  38. Fiquei com uma paixão por este macacão! Ainda hoje ia na rua e vi uma senhora com um modelo mt idêntico mas num tecido acetinado e lembrei-me imediatamente do teu! Tenho de fazer qualquer coisa para superar a minha paixão, o recurso é fazer um para mim!! O top assimétrico é também muito giro!

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  39. Todo divino Tany. El nuevo mono me encanta, tan sobrio y con tanto estilo. El conjunto Donna Karan es espectacular y los colores elegidos hacen una combinación "rara", pero muy bella.

    ahhh...observo que moderaste la entrada de comentarios.....

    besos, Paco

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  40. Bem...Palavras para quê?! Fiquei de boca aberta.

    Adorei o top/túnica azul turqueza. Tem um corte muito original, assimétrico...e fica-te muito bem! O macacão preto...é um básico elegantíssimo!!!

    Estou a ver que tens o guarda-roupa renovada para este verão!

    Beijinhos e boas costuras!

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