EN Summary: This blue set is made using patterns from Burda International 2/92, a quarterly vintage magazine. Unfortunately this special edition stopped being printed in 1996. Keep reading the full article on tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com to find out more.
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PT Sumário: Este conjunto azul foi confecionado a partir de moldes da revista Burda Internacional 2/92, uma edição especial trimestral que infelizmente deixou de ser impressa em 1996. Continuem a ler o artigo completo em tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com.
EN: Burda International magazines used to come out each trimester featuring an exclusive set of fashion forward designer patterns, usually more elaborate than regular Burda magazine's; they go back at least to the 60s. I've collected most of them since the late 80's. The jacket showing today is model 901B from the 2/96 issue and I cut size 40 without any alterations except decreasing the number of center front buttons and adding to the width of the front closure overlap (just because my buttons are bigger than the buttons used on the original model).
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PT: As revistas Burda Internacional costumavam sair trimestralmente e traziam uma seleção de moldes exclusivos de designer, mais arrojados e elaborados do que os publicados nas Burdas normais; estes números especiais recuam pelo menos até aos anos 60 e colecionei-os quase todos desde finais dos anos 80, até que deixaram de ser impressos em 1996 (faltam-me as de 93). O molde desta jaqueta é o modelo 901B da edição 02/92 e cortei o tamanho 40 quase sem alterações (apenas diminui o nº de botões na frente e alarguei ligeiramente o trespasse, pois os meus botões são maiores do que os utilizados no modelo original).
EN: This round neckline collarless jacket has well defined shoulders, yokes and multiple vertical panels with topstitched seams defining an hourglass silhouette; the front yoke joining seam has horizontal in-seam pockets. There are also three-piece sleeves(!!) with long buttoned vents.
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PT: Esta jaqueta de decote redondo tem ombros definidos, escapulário na frente e nas costas e várias costuras verticais pespontadas definindo uma silhueta ampulheta; o escapulário da frente tem bolsos metidos na costura horizontal e as mangas de três peças levam aberturas longas com botões nos punhos.
EN: The fabric used is wool blend suiting from my personal stash, slightly heavier than the camel suiting from my previous set. The blue shade of this fabric is truly beautiful, so I felt that I had to sew something special with it.
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PT: O tecido é mais uma sarja com lã na composição comprada há dois anos na Feira de Tecidos local. É um pouco mais grossa do que a sarja camel do conjunto anterior. O tom de azul deste tecido é tão bonito que senti que devia fazer uma peça verdadeiramente especial com ele.
EN: The sleeves alone are worth sewing this jacket. Patterns with three-piece sleeves (a staple of Chanel's vintage couture cardigan jacket) are very rare. I also love the buttoned cuff detail; although the instructions don't specifically say to miter the corners, I opted for this type of finishing. I also hand-stitched the lining to the vent and hem allowances after hand-tacking the sleeve hems in place:
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PT: As mangas apenas valem a pena como desafio em termos de confeção. Moldes com mangas de três peças são bastante raros (costumavam ser uma característica típica das jaquetas Chanel tradicionais em alta-costura). Também gostei bastante do detalhe da abertura abotoada nos punhos; apesar das instruções não o mencionarem, confecionei os cantos mitrados e optei por embainhar o forro à mão nas mangas:
EN: The lining was otherwise machine-stitched to the facings and hems; notice how the lining/hem/facing intersection was finished:
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PT: As restantes costuras do forro foram cosidas às bainhas e vistas à máquina; notem o acabamento na junção da bainha com a vista e o forro mais abaixo:
EN: I love the jacket and I think it turned out beautiful. It's a very special garment, in my opinion.
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PT: Adoro a jaqueta, acho que ficou espetacular. Na minha opinião é uma peça muito especial.
EN: I wanted to use all the fabric left so I made a pair of shorts (model 902D - it's the same pattern of the camel shorts shown earlier; I also cut this version 2" longer). Since the jacket features topstitched seams, I topstitched the short's waistband and pocket openings to match: ---
PT: Quis dar uso ao resto do tecido que ainda deu para cortar um par de calções (modelo 902D da mesma revista); são iguais aos camel que mostrei no
post anterior e também mais compridos 5cm que o modelo original). Desta vez, como a jaqueta tem costuras pespontadas, pespontei o cós e as aberturas dos bolsos nos calções para coordenarem melhor com a jaqueta:
EN: Here's the fly-front zipper with the added inner facing detail (the original model doesn't include one):
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PT: Aqui têm a braguilha com a vista de trespasse interior que acrescentei ao modelo original:
EN: On the back I also added a double-welt pocket, but this time I made a buttonhole before stitching the pocket bag closed on the wrong side (the buttonhole is sewn through the back layer AND the upper pocket bag alone, otherwise it would make the pocket unusable) ; I used one of those spare buttons that come with some purchased clothes:
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PT: Atrás também acrescentei um bolso de dupla pestana, mas desta vez lembrei-me de bordar uma casa de botão antes de coser as funduras interiores juntas fechando o saco do bolso (a casa é bordada no calção juntamente com a fundura mais à face, não prende a fundura interior; de outra forma o bolso não seria funcional). O botão é um daqueles supelentes que vêm presos na etiqueta em algumas roupas compradas nas lojas:
EN: I am very happy with this set; In spite of being issued in the 90s, it doesn't feel dated to me and it's totally my style (you guys know me, I loooove suits and monochromatic outfits!). I will definetely wear it with much pleasure (whenever the opportunity comes, that is; our government is issuing a new general confinement starting in a few days from now so I doubt I'll have a chance to wear it anytime soon,...). 2020 was a good sewing year, in spite of everything else,... I spent most of the weekends sewing, lol :). I still have a couple of garments more from last year to share, so expect more posts in the following days. Happy sewing to all!
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PT: Estou mesmo muito feliz com este conjunto; apesar de ser um modelo dos anos 90 não me parece passado de moda e faz mesmo o meu estilo (quem me conhece sabe que adoooro fatos e looks monocromáticos!). Tenho a certeza que vou sentir um grande prazer ao usá-lo (quer dizer, quando for que a oportunidade surja, claro; o nosso governo prepara-se para declarar um novo confinamento geral ainda esta semana, por isso não será tão cedo,...). 2020 foi um bom ano de costuras, apesar de tudo o resto (passei a maioria dos fins-de-semana a costurar, eheheh!) e preparem-se porque ainda falta mostrar algumas peças do ano passado. Boas costuras a todos!
It is absolutely the best ensemble I've seen in the sewing blogosphere so far this year. Sheer perfection, as usual! Next time you install the sleeve linings, I would humbly ask if you would do a tutorial? Thanks Tany!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much, sewsy! Well this sleeve lining was relatively easy to install, since it was all sewn in by hand to the cuff. I usually cut the sleeves with 4cm hem allowances and the lining with 1cm (3/8") seam allowance. In this case I cut the lining without vent extensions and since I want the lining sleeve to not to pull the sleeve when putting on/wearing the jacket, I marked the vent opening on the lining 1cm below the original marking (this will create an ease pleat above the lining vent). The lining sleeve in the end must be cut, adjusting the lining to the vent facings width and leaving 1cm seam allowance. In the end, the lining is pinned to the sleeve at the hem/vent allowances and slip-stitched by hand. There's also a way to do all this by sewing machine, but the lining sleeve pattern must be cut ready in advance. DP Studio blazer/coat patterns, for example, come with lining patterns prepared to be machine stitched and their instructions show how the process is done. It is an advanced technique though; it takes some practice to manipulate the several layers as you stitch.
ReplyDeletethat suit is gorgeous and the color is fantastic. I like the seaming detail. I think I need to collect more vintage Burda's however like you I have sewn a lot this year but not worn these things very much. Happy new year and hope you and your family stay well.
ReplyDeleteGorgeous!Such att'n & care to detail(s), so well thought through & well executed. Brava!
ReplyDeleteAbsolute perfection. Your fabric is such a stunning colour.
ReplyDeleteAnother stunner!😊 seems like I say this on every garment you make. Such a lovely color, and stitched to perfection. Thanks.
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