PT Sumário: Devem lembrar-se que destaquei o blazer assertoado da revista BurdaStyle 10/2019 na minha rubrica mensal "Molde em destaque da revista BurdaStyle" (aqui); pois hoje tenho para vos mostrar o blazer confecionado numa bonita sarja vermelho-vivo! Continuem a ler o artigo completo!
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EN Summary: You guys should recall this blazer from my monthly "BurdaStyle pattern Highlight" (click here). The pattern was featured in the 10/2019 issue of the magazine and I am thrilled to show off the finished blazer, made from a beautiful bright red woolen (wool/polyester blend). Keep reading the full article!
PT: Devem recordar-se que este modelo tem duas características que me chamaram logo a atenção: as lapelas rectangulares e as cabeças das mangas com recortes, acentuando os ombros da peça. Quanto a mim faltava-lhe apenas os bolsos, algo que não é dificil de resolver ;).
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EN: As previously stated, this pattern caught my eye because of two out of the ordinary features: the rectangular shaped lapels and the sleeve caps which are shaped by round seams and accentuate the shoulder line in relation to the narrow waistline. The pattern only lacked pockets, an easily fixable issue ;).
PT: Relativamente ao molde e às instruções, gostava de evidenciar dois detalhes: este molde, ao contrário da maioria dos moldes de jaquetas da BurdaStyle, tem partes específicas para serem cortadas em forro (a parte central das costas e as partes da frente que são cosidas às vistas da frente), o que facilita o corte do forro para os menos experientes. Quanto às instruções, na minha opinião os reforços de entretela podem não ser suficientes, dependendo da tela utilizada: apenas as vistas, bainhas e partes da gola têm indicação para serem entreteladas; o blazer também não leva chumaços nos ombros. Quanto aos chumaços, provei o blazer sem eles e pareceu-me bem: a forma dos ombros mantém-se e não colapsa, talvez devido ao feitio adicional nas cabeças das mangas,... Quanto às áreas a entretelar, na minha opinião são insuficientes. Entretelei também a parte central da frente, as zonas das cavas dos paineis laterais e a parte superior das costas. Além disso usei fita termo-colante para estabilizar as cavas, decote, orlas da frente e linha da dobra das lapelas. Também é importante estabilizar a costura dos ombros e para isso usei um resto de fita de cetim fininha, cozida juntamente com a costura dos ombros.
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EN: Regarding the pattern and the instructions, I'd like to highlight a couple of peculiarities in relation to the usual Burdastyle blazer/jacket instructions: the pattern comes with specific pattern pieces for the lining (back and front lining pieces) which will make life easier for the less experienced. As far as the instructions go in my opinion the interfacing reinforcements are clearly insufficient (specially if the fabric used doesn't have enough body on its own): the instructions only mention interfacing the facings, collar pieces and hem allowances; in addition to this, this blazer doesn't take shoulder pads. Regarding the shoulder pads, I did try the blazer on for a fitting and in my case they weren't necessary (due to the sleeve cap seams, the shoulders seem to hold their shape well without collapsing) but anyone with slopped shoulders may need the shoulder pads, in my opinion. In addition to the instructions, I decided to interface the center front panels entirely, the armhole area on the side panels and the upper part of the back panels (the so called back shield in tailoring). I also used straight grain fusible tape on the front edges, lapel's roll line, neckline and armholes. For stabilizing the shoulders I used a thin tape of satin (a piece of lining selvage would also do the trick).
PT: Outra área que considero ser importante reforçar com entretela é a cabeça das mangas, para que mantenham a sua forma. Podem ver na foto abaixo esta área reforçada na folha superior da manga, já com as costuras da cabeça da manga cosidas (só falta aparar e abrir as costuras a ferro):
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EN: Another area that I consider needing interfacing is the sleeve caps; they will hold their shape much better if interfaced. Below there's a photo of the upper sleeve with the cap seams already stitched (it only lacks trimming and pressing seams open at this point):
PT: Aqui têm a manga aplicada no blazer pronto; notem também a forma original das lapelas pespontadas:
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EN: Here's how the sleeve looks on the finished blazer; also note the original shape of the topstitched lapels:
PT: Acrescentei bolsos com uma pestana na costura frontal do painel lateral, pois para mim um blazer sem bolsos não faz muito sentido. Inspirei-me nos bolsos da "Jaqueta Parisiense" da Susan Khalje (aqui). Se estiverem inscritos no seu Clube de Alta-costura no Facebook (o qual recomendo vivamente, se quiserem aperfeiçoar as vossas capacidades), têm acesso aos vídeos de confeção da jaqueta Parisience em exclusivo, incluindo o vídeo da confeção deste tipo de bolsos:
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EN: I added a single welt in-seam pocket on the front side panel seam, inspired by Susan Khalje's Parisian jacket (here). If you join Susan's Couture Sewing Club on Facebook (which I highly recommend if you want to go up a few notches on your sewing skills), you'll gain exclusive access to all of the Parisian jacket's video tutorials, including the one for this specific type of pockets:
PT: Usei botões "meia-bola" de latão na minha jaqueta, pois tenho visto bastante botões metálicos, especialmente dourados e em latão, nas últimas coleções de pronto-a-vestir:
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EN: I used brass dome buttons on my jacket because I have been seeing a lot of metallic buttons in the current RTW collections, specially golden and brass buttons:
PT: Esqueci-me de tirar fotos do interior forrado da jaqueta; se quiserem posso fazer um post adicional mostrando esses detalhes, que não diferem do que tenho feito em outras jaquetas anteriormente: forro aplicado à maneira industrial, como ilustrado neste excelente artigo do falecido Paco Peralta (aqui).
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EN: I forgot to take photos of the lined interior of the jacket,... Do you guys want me to write a post showing these details? I did exactly the same thing as with most of my previous jacket projects: Followed the excellent method illustrated in this article by the late Paco Peralta (here).
PT: Aqui têm o blazer em conjunto com as calças que fiz anteriormente (artigo sobre a confeção aqui). Ficou um fato vermelho muito bonito, não acham? Espero que tenham gostado! Obrigada por aparecerem e boas costuras a todos!
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EN: Here's the blazer, together with the matching pants (reviewed here): it really turned out a very sharp and elegant red pantsuit, don'y you guys think? I hope you like it as I do! Thank you all for dropping by and Happy Sewing!
those sleeves are so cool! love this and the color is fantastic.
ReplyDeleteWhat is there not to like about a beautifully tailored red suit? I love it!
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely fantastic, love your jacket so much! Great choice of buttons and these pockets are the best!Julie
ReplyDeleteGorgeous! Thank you for all the tailoring details.
ReplyDeleteYes it s fantastic, all what you make is supergood.
ReplyDeleteIncredible and inspiring work as always! Thank you for sharing details of the extra interfacing that you added, these are applicable to most tailored jackets I think. Love the details on this jacket and it does pair perfectly with the pants you made.
ReplyDeleteWow, the details on the jacket are beautiful! Thank you for sharing the close-up photos, especially the sleeve cap, just stunning workmanship.
ReplyDeleteWow! Please post a photo of you wearing it?
ReplyDeleteThe sleeves and lapel are really interesting. The colour is fun too.
ReplyDeleteWonderful! The jacket looks very high end and the color is beautiful! Thank you for the tip about the sleeve cap.
ReplyDeleteGorgeous Fabrics. I just love it.. Incredible and inspiring work. the jacket was fabulous. I found some excellent fabrics from Fabrics World USA in NYC near me which was a nice weight, not too beefy.
ReplyDeleteYour additions really step up the finished product. Beautiful ensemble, Tany and you will rock that red!
ReplyDeleteWow! This is beautiful!!
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