English (uncheck the other box and check this one)
… Se é que lhes podemos chamar isso, pois têm uma forma muito invulgar, se forem feitas de acordo com as instruções, e foi assim que as fiz, para o bem ou para o mal. Passemos então a analisar os passos das instruções:
“Confeccionar trabillas, cosidas e vueltas dejando abierto el espacio entre señales X-S…”
Confeccionar presilhas cosendo-as e voltando-as, deixando aberto o espaço entre sinais X-S (podem ver uma das presilhas antes de a voltar para o direito e outra já pronta):
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhdzxdyH_4IhaiRL0kwBAatynNmD148mwz26OpVdacfgry0Ey7VjIIxavaPrCQbRAyU7h3G-_Loh_y9XRxEBNPpr8mHB-awP01apoeXulgVS7NqzJivitvUtE8ei_XRVT3SqbvsSuFYxLi/s320/001a.JPG)
“…y colocar sobre charreteras según las mismas señales y en posición hacia la doblez de estas, hilvanar,…”
… e colocar sobre as dragonas de acordo com os mesmos sinais e posicionadas em direcção à dobra de estas (a dobra é o centro da peça das dragonas), alinhavar…
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgweZfzpgIuLc6aFnJzMFFD_qiMijM1Tk7HHqgKWEXCOYMN7sGQ4cr1pfM15kWJREfzYGSV3akxgwNjfbwevuJ_N0kWJ52O2122CkoHwZOmWdnAlASGeETGC-3NBqwUBbSAAMPBZhPG1JJH/s280/002a.JPG)
“…doblar carreteras derecho con derecho y cerrar extremo y lado quedando sujetas las trabillas,…”
… dobrar as dragonas direito com direito (pela linha de dobra) e coser extremo e lado, prendendo as presilhas,… Vejam que as presilhas só devem ficar presas na costura de união, daí a ponta da presilha estar a espreitar pela abertura
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvXV8kR-EXJJaPpfCvlP4IoFHof3kWzI4_Au6MibS8VpSSIruju5ixxdM-jynnMUmNpIfZUjplK-dBbTCWMRT0M5Qztgbrr4MGvyUyRNADITIp4L5Piq9EIGoVKkclKLcsaN3lhMC0m0fm/s320/003a.JPG)
“… girar…”
...voltar para o direito…
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ2KNUU-n_nPDguwrcYcQNICjH-sCs1WiIWd8teOCYXGFh007Kxb-tGpFuDLmdHsitX4Ovk-VWF08W68LJn7EMyI3uPshQ9dT13FsYw_zV2LSNI2izFAAIzuKzYTbzJAnUY5rBKBhHVtuG/s280/004a.JPG)
“… y colocar charreteras sobre la espalda según señal R en posición hacia la base del cuerpo.”
… e colocar as dragonas sobre as costas segundo o sinal R em posição na direcção da base do corpo.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEClyZsBF3gddbS4Mi04L34OeHk5GOtBvzPQNlqf9YLRehTFmOt3jFKIREdcU51TF0G5vseS5NGuTNYwm0I46qMEVhpBKYDuvEODHBT7GIICRXm6HKt3EXjlFOyeeMrdl52cno7uGVYfgN/s280/005a.JPG)
“Coser un canesú a la espalda quedando sujetas las charreteras,…”
Coser o espelho (encaixe do ombro) às costas, prendendo as dragonas,…
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSf6ji1CURWa7-jQUM1Zt8MSIUYh-4DeIPQY_M6GgYsh0v9_deZiIrXVdRdapGPOg9fzdTdp1SjLSkKPD-2oRHwwtvt6unMy0fjE4g5v_Jsx7lpwuWPoIcFhoBev7ZlLFSzXBq5OE5j1hg/s280/006a.JPG)
NOTA: Por causa do reforço das costas tive que unir a costura central das costas primeiro. Na figura seguinte podem ver o avesso do trabalho:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV9DNHphuWRInWsUt8Bu33fdJ0rcsR8__zBBcoekjRtTEsYyc-aR438p4MZycVzlMue4KBHn5y64ihqcuxsWlOuu3ZO-SIHSqEJM-IXaA-yQqJKDYsKcLPmxhuPbiUH_B9yqFMtzEjvGE3/s280/007a.JPG)
“… coser canesú a delanteros, dejando sueltas las charreteras, fijar estas delante en plano con un punto a mano en los extremos.”
… coser os espelhos às frentes, não prendendo as dragonas; fixá-las sobre a frente com pontos à mão nas extremidades.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZUC0eBch5yCxwxwsph-7MVdjs411YxDJb8_80aBqpDKDqKa66RecUe1z-VgcHQjXIMbBtMQlQPPTXQsM9r2Erc0JjY9RcnaJpuE3qOvhEgb3d0GnWS5K6EXTuGhqJidcs_teZW1LgfGM_/s280/008a.JPG)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vQ6MUabFt-qo2w8wVUAUdxLMNEEct8zLSkNlVxM0idg04yR5tTNK7Tr4-qDxAKdH-KWv1i_xbH7JG3OE6p_ePdjBetV1BiRYYNJAaHi71hXOXzdEJU9EBJzV3aRLNTVTkBnDQr61gdxu/s280/009a.JPG)
No final das instruções é dito para fixar as presilhas à gola com um botão. E é isto! Na minha opinião as presilhas estão um pouco compridas, mas poderei fixá-las dando a volta por cima da gola e cosendo-as no interior. No próximo post já mostrarei o casaco pronto, pois sei que estão ansiosas…
“Confeccionar trabillas, cosidas e vueltas dejando abierto el espacio entre señales X-S…”
Confeccionar presilhas cosendo-as e voltando-as, deixando aberto o espaço entre sinais X-S (podem ver uma das presilhas antes de a voltar para o direito e outra já pronta):
“…y colocar sobre charreteras según las mismas señales y en posición hacia la doblez de estas, hilvanar,…”
… e colocar sobre as dragonas de acordo com os mesmos sinais e posicionadas em direcção à dobra de estas (a dobra é o centro da peça das dragonas), alinhavar…
“…doblar carreteras derecho con derecho y cerrar extremo y lado quedando sujetas las trabillas,…”
… dobrar as dragonas direito com direito (pela linha de dobra) e coser extremo e lado, prendendo as presilhas,… Vejam que as presilhas só devem ficar presas na costura de união, daí a ponta da presilha estar a espreitar pela abertura
“… girar…”
...voltar para o direito…
“… y colocar charreteras sobre la espalda según señal R en posición hacia la base del cuerpo.”
… e colocar as dragonas sobre as costas segundo o sinal R em posição na direcção da base do corpo.
“Coser un canesú a la espalda quedando sujetas las charreteras,…”
Coser o espelho (encaixe do ombro) às costas, prendendo as dragonas,…
NOTA: Por causa do reforço das costas tive que unir a costura central das costas primeiro. Na figura seguinte podem ver o avesso do trabalho:
“… coser canesú a delanteros, dejando sueltas las charreteras, fijar estas delante en plano con un punto a mano en los extremos.”
… coser os espelhos às frentes, não prendendo as dragonas; fixá-las sobre a frente com pontos à mão nas extremidades.
No final das instruções é dito para fixar as presilhas à gola com um botão. E é isto! Na minha opinião as presilhas estão um pouco compridas, mas poderei fixá-las dando a volta por cima da gola e cosendo-as no interior. No próximo post já mostrarei o casaco pronto, pois sei que estão ansiosas…
… if we can call them that, because they have an unusual shape if made according to the instructions as I did. Let’s break down the Spanish instructions then:
“Confeccionar trabillas, cosidas e vueltas dejando abierto el espacio entre señales X-S…”
Make the tabs sewing and turning them, leaving the space between marks X-S open (in the picture you can see one finished tab and the other one just before turning to the right side)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhdzxdyH_4IhaiRL0kwBAatynNmD148mwz26OpVdacfgry0Ey7VjIIxavaPrCQbRAyU7h3G-_Loh_y9XRxEBNPpr8mHB-awP01apoeXulgVS7NqzJivitvUtE8ei_XRVT3SqbvsSuFYxLi/s320/001a.JPG)
“…y colocar sobre charreteras según las mismas señales y en posición hacia la doblez de estas, hilvanar,…”
… and place them on the epaulets according to the same marks, facing the fold line; baste in place (I used pins instead).
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgweZfzpgIuLc6aFnJzMFFD_qiMijM1Tk7HHqgKWEXCOYMN7sGQ4cr1pfM15kWJREfzYGSV3akxgwNjfbwevuJ_N0kWJ52O2122CkoHwZOmWdnAlASGeETGC-3NBqwUBbSAAMPBZhPG1JJH/s280/002a.JPG)
“…doblar carreteras derecho con derecho y cerrar extremo y lado quedando sujetas las trabillas,…”
… fold the epaulets in half along the fold line, right sides facing, and stitch the extremity and the side, sewing over the tabs inside. Note: the tabs should only get caught between the marks X-S, that’s why you see the tab tip peeking outside)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvXV8kR-EXJJaPpfCvlP4IoFHof3kWzI4_Au6MibS8VpSSIruju5ixxdM-jynnMUmNpIfZUjplK-dBbTCWMRT0M5Qztgbrr4MGvyUyRNADITIp4L5Piq9EIGoVKkclKLcsaN3lhMC0m0fm/s320/003a.JPG)
“… girar…”
... turn to the right side…
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ2KNUU-n_nPDguwrcYcQNICjH-sCs1WiIWd8teOCYXGFh007Kxb-tGpFuDLmdHsitX4Ovk-VWF08W68LJn7EMyI3uPshQ9dT13FsYw_zV2LSNI2izFAAIzuKzYTbzJAnUY5rBKBhHVtuG/s280/004a.JPG)
“… y colocar charreteras sobre la espalda según señal R en posición hacia la base del cuerpo.”
… and place the epaulets over the back according to the R mark, facing the base of the bodice.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEClyZsBF3gddbS4Mi04L34OeHk5GOtBvzPQNlqf9YLRehTFmOt3jFKIREdcU51TF0G5vseS5NGuTNYwm0I46qMEVhpBKYDuvEODHBT7GIICRXm6HKt3EXjlFOyeeMrdl52cno7uGVYfgN/s280/005a.JPG)
“Coser un canesú a la espalda quedando sujetas las charreteras,…”
Sew the yoke to the back, catching the epaulets in between…
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSf6ji1CURWa7-jQUM1Zt8MSIUYh-4DeIPQY_M6GgYsh0v9_deZiIrXVdRdapGPOg9fzdTdp1SjLSkKPD-2oRHwwtvt6unMy0fjE4g5v_Jsx7lpwuWPoIcFhoBev7ZlLFSzXBq5OE5j1hg/s280/006a.JPG)
NOTE: Because I added a back shield, I had to stitch the center back seam on both back and back shield first. Here’s the view from the wrong side:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV9DNHphuWRInWsUt8Bu33fdJ0rcsR8__zBBcoekjRtTEsYyc-aR438p4MZycVzlMue4KBHn5y64ihqcuxsWlOuu3ZO-SIHSqEJM-IXaA-yQqJKDYsKcLPmxhuPbiUH_B9yqFMtzEjvGE3/s280/007a.JPG)
“… coser canesú a delanteros, dejando sueltas las charreteras, fijar estas delante en plano con un punto a mano en los extremos.”
… stitch the yoke to the front, leaving the epaulet free; tack them down to the front by hand along their extremities.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZUC0eBch5yCxwxwsph-7MVdjs411YxDJb8_80aBqpDKDqKa66RecUe1z-VgcHQjXIMbBtMQlQPPTXQsM9r2Erc0JjY9RcnaJpuE3qOvhEgb3d0GnWS5K6EXTuGhqJidcs_teZW1LgfGM_/s280/008a.JPG)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vQ6MUabFt-qo2w8wVUAUdxLMNEEct8zLSkNlVxM0idg04yR5tTNK7Tr4-qDxAKdH-KWv1i_xbH7JG3OE6p_ePdjBetV1BiRYYNJAaHi71hXOXzdEJU9EBJzV3aRLNTVTkBnDQr61gdxu/s280/009a.JPG)
In the end the instructions mention sewing a button on the tab and collar together. And that’s it! In my opinion the tabs are a little too long and I plan on folding them over the collar, stitching them to the inner collar. And, of course, I will sew the button in place too. Next I will show you the finished coat because I know you are dying to see it!
“Confeccionar trabillas, cosidas e vueltas dejando abierto el espacio entre señales X-S…”
Make the tabs sewing and turning them, leaving the space between marks X-S open (in the picture you can see one finished tab and the other one just before turning to the right side)
“…y colocar sobre charreteras según las mismas señales y en posición hacia la doblez de estas, hilvanar,…”
… and place them on the epaulets according to the same marks, facing the fold line; baste in place (I used pins instead).
“…doblar carreteras derecho con derecho y cerrar extremo y lado quedando sujetas las trabillas,…”
… fold the epaulets in half along the fold line, right sides facing, and stitch the extremity and the side, sewing over the tabs inside. Note: the tabs should only get caught between the marks X-S, that’s why you see the tab tip peeking outside)
“… girar…”
... turn to the right side…
“… y colocar charreteras sobre la espalda según señal R en posición hacia la base del cuerpo.”
… and place the epaulets over the back according to the R mark, facing the base of the bodice.
“Coser un canesú a la espalda quedando sujetas las charreteras,…”
Sew the yoke to the back, catching the epaulets in between…
NOTE: Because I added a back shield, I had to stitch the center back seam on both back and back shield first. Here’s the view from the wrong side:
“… coser canesú a delanteros, dejando sueltas las charreteras, fijar estas delante en plano con un punto a mano en los extremos.”
… stitch the yoke to the front, leaving the epaulet free; tack them down to the front by hand along their extremities.
In the end the instructions mention sewing a button on the tab and collar together. And that’s it! In my opinion the tabs are a little too long and I plan on folding them over the collar, stitching them to the inner collar. And, of course, I will sew the button in place too. Next I will show you the finished coat because I know you are dying to see it!
That fabric is gorgeous, is it a cotton pique.
ReplyDeleteSuch an interesting placement. I am anxious to see the completed garment.
ReplyDeleteAnsiosa eu??? Nããããão... alguém tem aí mais umas unhas para roer? eheheh
ReplyDeleteSuper ansiosa!!!
Beijinhos
Yes please! Looking forward to seeing it complete.
ReplyDeleteWhat a perfect lesson....hi dear, hope everything's ok for you
ReplyDeleteola lindo seu blog.aproveitei e ja coloquei seu blog na minha lista.
ReplyDeleteparabens.
claudia.