2016#24: Alexander McQueen for Givenchy bias slip dress (OPP Vogue 2157) - Vestido em viés Givenchy (por Alexander McQueen)

EN Summary: I'm wearing this dress on my son's 4th Birthday party and couldn't be happier with how it turned out (see more photos over at Tany et La Mode)! Keep reading for all the details and complete sewing review!
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PT Sumário: Aqui me têm a usar o vestido na festa de Aniversário do meu filho (fez 4 anos) - mais fotos no Tany et La Mode, e não poderia ter ficado mais satisfeita com o resultado! Continuem a ler para verem todos os detalhes sobre o vestido e a sua confeção!



About the pattern: The envelope reads "Close-fitting, bias, flared, pullover dress, mid-knee (center back), has shoulder straps, seam detail and shaped hem-line. A: sheer. Note: A is shown over B".  According to PatternVault (click here), this pattern was featured in the July/August 1998 issue of Vogue Patterns. I cut size 14 without any modification and made view B (without the sheer overlay). The fabric is polyester (a good impersonation of hammered silk) bought at a local fabric store.
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Sobre o molde: No envelope está escrito "Vestido de enfiar justo cortado em viés, com saia ampla pelo joelho (no centro de trás), tem tiras nos ombros, pormenores com costuras e bainha assimétrica. Versão A: tecido fino transparente. Nota: a versão A é usada sobre a B". De acordo com o blogue "PatternVault" (clicar aqui), este molde saiu na edição de Julho/Agosto da revista Vogue Patterns. Cortei o tamanho 14 sem qualquer modificação e fiz a opção B (sem a sobreposição do vestido transparente). O tecido é poliéster (uma boa imitação de seda martelada) comprado na Feira dos Tecidos de Aveiro.
EN: So my readers can understand the shape of the dress better, here's one of the diagrams from the pattern instruction sheet (there's only one page of instructions, the dress is really simple to make):
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PT: Para poderem entender melhor a forma do vestido, têm aqui um dos diagramas da folha de instruções do molde (só tem uma página de instruções, a construção é bastante simples):
EN: For seaming the dress I used the 5-thread safety stitch on my serger (click here for the article I wrote about setting up my serger for that stitch). Next you can see the intersection of all seams along the more flared side of the dress. The front and back flare extensions SAs are pressed down and then the side seams are stitched and pressed to the back of the dress:
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PT: As costuras do vestido foram cosidas com a corta-e-cose, usando o ponto de orlar com pesponto de segurança (5 fios). Podem ler o artigo sobre a preparação da corta-e-cose para esse ponto especifico aqui. Na foto seguinte têm a costura lateral do lado do folho onde todas as costuras se interligam; os suplementos das costuras das extensões da saia são assentes para baixo e só depois são cosidas as laterais, com os suplementos assentes para as costas do vestido:
EN: After stitching and pressing all seams, it's time to finish the armhole & neckline edges; As per the instructions I used a hand-rolled hem edge treatment and this was the most time consuming step when making the dress:
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PT: Depois de cosidas as costuras passei ao acabamento do decote e cavas do vestido. Segui as instruções para coser uma bainha-rolinho à mão, sendo que este foi o passo que demorou mais tempo na confeção do vestido:
EN: Next you can see the dress pinned to the dressform (the shoulder straps weren't attached yet) and how the front neckline drapes:
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PT: A seguir podem ver o cair da orla do decote com o vestido preso com alfinetes no manequim (as alças ainda não tinham sido cosidas aqui):
EN: I've been advised by some friends who have made this dress before about the straps stretching out with the weight of the dress, so I took some preventive measures to keep that from happening: the straps are sewn from bias cut rectangles of fabric; before stitching the bias tubes closed I pressed and stretched the rectangles lengthwise using lots of steam; I also stretched the folded rectangles as I stitched them closed; then I didn't trim the SAs and went straight ahead to turn the tubes to the right side using my loop-turner. The next photo hows how much the straps have grown after these preliminary procedures:
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PT: Algumas amigas que fizeram este vestido antes, avisaram-me que as tiras dos ombros têm tendência a esbijar com o peso do vestido, tendo depois de serem novamente ajustadas uma ou duas vezes depois de usar o vestido. Para evitar que isto aconteça, tomei algumas medidas preventivas: as alças são feitas com dois rectângulos de tecido cortados em viés, e antes de os coser longitudinalmente, estiquei-os e passei-os a ferro com bastante vepor; depois, ao coser também fui esticamndo mais os viéses. Não aparei as margens de costura (para encher mais as tiras depois de prontas) e usei o meu "loop-turner" para virar as tiras para o direito. Abaixo vê-se que cresceram bastante, quando comparadas com o molde usado para cortar os retângulos:
EN: Instead of stitching the spaghetti straps to the dress front and back, I stitched to the front and pinned the other end (after taking the correct measure) to the back of the dress; then I left the dress on a hanger overnight. If there was some stretch left on the straps, this procedure took it out permanently. It also allowed the bias skirt to rest before trimming it even. The next day I stitched the shoulder straps to the back at the correct measurement and they kept their original length.
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PT: Em vez de coser as alças logo à frente e atrás, só as cosi à frente e fixei-as com alfinetes atrás (depois de medir o comprineto adequado). Depois deixei o vestido pendurado numa cruzeta por 24h. Se as alças ainda tivessem por onde esticar, no outro dia seria fácil de corrigir. Deixar o vestido pendurado também é útil para o viés repousar, para depois acertar a bainha. No dia seguinte cosi as alças permanentemente à parte de trás do vestido, verificando que não esticaram mais.
EN: The shape of the dress skirt is quite interesting; Gail called it "banana" skirt and I think the name suits it well. The next two photos show its original shape and how it hangs on the side (photos taken before hemming):
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PT: A forma da saia deste vestido é bastante interessante. A Gail chamou-lhe saia "Banana" e acho que o nome é bem adequado. As próximas duas fotos mostram o cair da saia e a sua forma (fotos tiradas antes de fazer a bainha):

EN: I hemmed the skirt exactly as explained in the instructions (a machine baby-hem, well suitable for lightweight drapery fabrics):
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PT: Fiz a bainha de acordo com as instruções do molde (uma bainha rolinho feita à máquina, perfeitamente indicada para tecidos leves e com bom cair):

EN: The final step was sewing my label to the wrong side of the back edge:
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PT: O passo que faltava era coser a minha etiqueta na beira das costas:
Conclusion:  A very flattering and flirty dress, with a great fit and running true to size. I found the pattern on eBay and since I already own some Alexander McQueeen for Givenchy patterns, I wanted to add this one to the collection. I almost lost hope of getting it after almost two months of delay (Portuguese customs are to blame on this) but it finally arrived and I just had to make this one! If you want to see how this dress floats in the wind, just watch the following short movie! You can also see more photos of me wearing the dress by clicking here. Thank you all for the support!
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Conclusão: Um vestido muito favorecedor e sexy, que se molda muito bem e cujo tamanho é realmente o que diz ser. Encontrei o molde no eBay e como já tinha alguns moldes Alexander McQueen para Givenchy quis adicionar este à coleção. Depois de esperar quase dois meses (culpa da alfândega Portuguesa) e ter perdido a esperança de receber o molde, este chegou finalmente e tive mesmo de fazer o vestido.  Se quiserem ver como o vestido esvoaça com o vento, têm um pequeno filme já a seguir! Entretanto, já sabem, têm mais fotos minhas a usar o vestido neste link! Obrigada a todos!

14 comments:

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

that dress is both so glamorous and yet easy and casual. I love it, what a perfect dress for summer. beautiful sewing. you look great.

Summer Flies said...

It looks beautiful. I have that pattern and started to place the pieces on the fabric but I just didnt have enough with the floaty skirt. I haven't seen it on anyone but it is beautiful on you. Good tips re the straps and I will be putting that in my memory banks!

Mónica Martinho said...

Parece ter sido complicado de fazer, mas valeu bem a pena!

Ann said...

That is stunning!!!!

Vicki said...

That dress is so pretty!! It must feel wonderful to wear.

Unknown said...

Your dress looks gorgeous. I would love to make a similar when but I cannot find the OOP pattern anywhere! I wonder if anyone knows of a similar one?

AllisonC said...

It's incredibly really how well this gorgeous design has stood the test of time. I am so glad that I have a collection of Vogue designer patterns from that era (not this one though). Beautiful dress that looks wonderful on you.

Tany said...

Sorry, I deleted this anonymous comment by mistake: "Hello. I wish to note, after watching more times the 1998 ss show by givenchy, where there are 4 dresses done by this pattern, they made it two piece, without cutting the skirt. What I cannot get is why the longer side does not pull the shorter one. Which would be just logical."

I must watch the show too (I will look it up), thanks for bringing this up

babyrenee77 said...

you did a fabulous job what a sexy dress! you look soo feminine and beautiful.. perfection <3

babyrenee77 said...

you did a fabulous job what a sexy dress! you look soo feminine and beautiful.. perfection <3

babyrenee77 said...

you did a fabulous job what a sexy dress! you look soo feminine and beautiful.. perfection <3

babyrenee77 said...

you did a fabulous job what a sexy dress! you look soo feminine and beautiful.. perfection <3

babyrenee77 said...

you did a fabulous job what a sexy dress! you look soo feminine and beautiful.. perfection <3

babyrenee77 said...

you did a fabulous job what a sexy dress! you look soo feminine and beautiful.. perfection <3