Monday, August 8, 2011

2011#23 – White dress – Vestido branco

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Trata-se do segundo vestido que fiz utilizando o molde Patrones nº284 modelo 26(podem ver o primeiro vestido e uma descrição mais detalhada do molde aqui).

Tecido usado: Crepe branco.

Este vestido é em tudo semelhante ao vestido estampado de cobra, apenas acrescentei alguns detalhes no acabamento interior. Um dos detalhes é um pequeno botão de segurança no fecho (não é absolutamente necessário neste caso, mas valoriza o acabamento):
Como os tecidos brancos são sempre sujeitos a transparência, optei por um forro do tom da pele (“nude”), a melhor opção para reduzir a transparência de tecidos brancos. Para não se notar tanto no direito do vestido o contraste da transição do tecido das vistas (que é branco) para o forro (tom de pele), forrei o avesso das vistas (a parte que fica virada contra o tecido branco do vestido) com o forro também. As fotos seguintes mostram as vistas pelo avesso, onde podem também observar o escalado/golpeado das costuras por dentro nas orlas das cavas e decote do vestido e a junção do forro às vistas:

Algumas de vocês realçaram a forma como acabei os cantos da abertura atrás; podem ver um tutorial em Inglês da revista Threads (clicar aqui) que explica a base do processo. Não é difícil, só dá um pouquinho mais de trabalho, mas o efeito final vale bem a pena se bem executado.
Mais fotos do vestido:

Apenas uma nota final para quem faz um vestido destes; tomem cuidado para as costuras coincidirem nas junções; o alinhavar bem as marcações tem um papel fundamental para tudo ficar certo no final (foto do fecho invisível atrás, onde há a junção das costuras das pinças na vertical e da costura horizontal do cós):
Conclusão: Gosto tanto deste modelo simples que tenho a certeza que ainda voltarei a ele! Os looks “branco total” estão muito em voga agora no verão, e um vestido minimalista como este pode ser usado “a solo” com acessórios bonitos (aqui cuidado para não ficarmos a parecer a “noiva”, lol), com um blazer ou jaqueta a contrastar ou até com uma camisa solta ou cingida com um nó ou cinto (para um visual mais desportivo), etc. Com certeza irão ver fotos minhas a usá-lo em breve no meu blogue de guarda-roupa!

Queria também agradecer os comentários no meu artigo anterior! Sabe bem quando o nosso trabalho é reconhecido, e ainda mais quando o é internacionalmente! Um abraço a todos(as)!

This dress was the 2nd dress I made with the Patrones nº284mod26 pattern (click here for the first dress – the snake print dress - and more details about the pattern).

Fabric used: white crepe.

This dress is exactly the same as the previous snake print dress, except for some minor details on the inside finishing. For this dress I added a security button on top of the invisible zipper (not absolutely necessary in this case, but it’s a fine detail that adds to the final result):
White fabrics are always subject to some degree of transparency, so I opted for the best color lining in this case, which is nude. Even with the nude lining, the facings outline would be very noticeable on the right side, because the facings are interfaced in white. To minimize this effect I also lined the wrong side of the facings with the nude lining. Next pictures show the wrong side of the facings, the scaling/notching/clipping of the seam allowances on rounded edges, all on the wrong side of the dress, all very important to a better end result on the right side of the dress:

Some of you mentioned the mitered corners on the back slit; there’s a threads online tutorial (click here) that outlines the basics of the process. It’s not difficult (just needs some precise work and some more time), and adds a lot to the final result.
More pictures of the dress:

Finally, I just want to highlight the importance of precise sewing and thread tracing to achieve better results when matching all seams at junctions (the following picture shows how vertical darts are matching, and the horizontal waist seam is also matched for right and left side of the back of the dress, where there’s also the invisible zipper on the center back):
Conclusion: My second take on this pattern and possibly not the last. I love this simple and perfectly fitted design! The total white looks are quite trendy this summer (aren’t they all summers??) and a minimalistic white dress can be worn “solo” with beautiful accessories (some restrains apply to not ending up looking like a bride or a nurse, lol!), paired with a contrasting blazer or even with a shirt (loose, tied or belted for a sportive look), etc. I’m quite sure this dress will soon make a few outfit posts at my wardrobe blog (I’ll update with the link as soon as I publish it)!

As a final note I want to thank all the nice comments on my previous post! It feels great when our work is appreciated and even more when it’s appreciated internationally! A big hug to you all!

29 comments:

Jada said...

Wow just beautiful!

Erica B. said...

Beautifully tailored! I love white dresses!

nowaks nähkästchen said...

Done so neatly, as ever!

(You don't have nude interfacing? That's the one I am using most nowadays.)

OrientOxident said...

wonderful dress!

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

Great look. I love white dresses - perfect to feel chic and cool on a hot summer day or evening.

Tany said...

Nowaks: Thaks! I couldn't find nude knit fusible, here it's available just in black and white... The only nude interfacings here are wovens, and too rigid for this dress. After interfacing the facings with white knit fusible I pinned them to the lining fabric with the interfaced side down and cut around the facing... then I basted the lining in place and removed the pins. It's an extra step, using nude/beige interfacing would save me some time :)

Amanda S. said...

Just beautiful, Tany!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany - another awesome version of this dress! I can see why you want to make more.

Bunny said...

Stunning dress that must look wonderful on you. Thanks for the details.

Alexandra said...

Beautiful! Thank you for the picture of the security button - I like it much better than hook and eye (what I've been using).

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

This is A beautiful white dress Tany :)

Gail said...

Lovely work. You know I've never owned a white dress (bridal gown excluded).

DeniseAngela said...

Your dress making skills are something to aspire to.....the details on the inside are impeccable! I have been thinking about subscribing to Patrones......now I will......btw..... love the white!

Mom said...

Por aqui também a entretela é vendida somente em branco ou preto.
Adorei a idéia do botão, deve facilitar na hora de fechar o ziper sem ficar tão aparente como os colchetes de gancho.
E forrar as vistas... só você...
Beijos.

Vicki said...

Gorgeous. I will use that security button tip on a dress I am making at the moment for Sofie. It just might need that extra security.

Mamã Martinho said...

Gostei muito do modelo e acho que fizes-te bem em fazer mais uma vez este vestido. A cor foi bem escolhida, pois além de estar na moda e de ser uma boa cor para o verão, acaba por combinar com a maior parte das peças.

Bjs

Mónica

Cíntia said...

Eu quero um vestido branco também!!

aprendizdecostura

toy said...

gorgeous as always!

Sheila said...

Gorgeous dress and awesome detail finishing.

Rosy said...

So simple and so beautiful! this is the importance of having a base garment, this dress is this, then .. accessories do the rest. Of course, the finish so professional that you have accustomed us. Fabulous! Congratulations on the publication of the previous post. You are worthy of it!

nowaks nähkästchen said...

Do you know G785 from Vlieseline/Vilene? It's a very fine knit interfacing that exists in nude.

If you can't find it locally... maybe you have something I can't get here and we can swap? :)

Tany said...

Nowaks: Thanks for your offer! I looked it up on the internet and it's sold internationally; the shipping costs however are tremendous! 35,50 EUR (42,25 EUR for customers without VAT.no.). I still have to check a notions store in Oporto that usually sells notions not found everywhere else here… But I’d love to swap or pay you for the interfacing and the shipping cost, but only if you find a cheaper way to send it to me, lol! Let me know if there’s something I can get for you from Portugal!

nowaks nähkästchen said...

A letter up to 1kg is 7 EUR from Germany to Portugal. If you want it as registered letter it's plus 2,05 EUR.

So if you can't get it locally that might be an option?

I have no idea what one can get in Portugal... never been there. But I am sure we find a way.

Tany said...

That's a very reasonable shipping cost. Give me some time to confirm if I can get it locally or not, and if not I'll leave you a note at your blog. Thank you so much!

nowaks nähkästchen said...

No hurry, just tell my, as you suggested, if you need it. (Sometimes shops are willing to order something they don't have yet if they are provided with the product number, maybe that also helps. A constant supply "next door" is always the best option IMHO.)

Kathryn, aka fzxdoc said...

Breathtakingly beautiful, Tany!

senaSews said...

Fantastic dress! Well done - as always!

Celina said...

Simplesmente perfeito. Um clássico.
Como sempre, é um prazer "espreitar" os teus acabamentos e aqueles detalhes que não ficam à vista.
Bjs

Anonymous said...

Adorei seu blog!!!