Saturday, May 14, 2011

2011#10: Pink blazer – Blazer cor-de-rosa

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Descrição: Blazer forrado com gola de alfaiate em pé, ombros definidos, cós largo na frente e fecho com colchetes.

Quando vi este modelo na revista, pensei imediatamente que o iria fazer pois gostei da gola e do corte em geral. Lembro-me que na altura pensei em usar um tecido cinza prateado, para um efeito “espacial”, mas entretanto, influenciada pelas montras de algumas lojas e pelas recentes tendências, comecei a desejar um blazer cor-de-rosa e como tinha apenas 1,55m deste tecido, e era essa a quantidade de tecido necessária para este blazer, resolvi fazê-lo em rosa.

Molde usado: Revista Patrones nº300, modelo 33 (tracei o tamanho intermédio 42):


Material: 1,55m de sarja sintética em rosa vivo, 1,10m de forro, entretela termo-colante, linhas de coser e dois pares de colchetes. O tecido é baratucho (provavelmente poliéster) e foi comprado ao retalho (juntamente com mais peças do mesmo tecido noutras cores também muito na moda que estiveram disponíveis em saldo). Apesar de ser um tecido barato, trabalha-se bem e o resultado agradou-me bastante.

Artigos relacionados:

Construção da parte exterior (aplicação adicional de entretelas)
Construção da parte interior e acabamentos finais

Vamos então dar uma olhada nos detalhes; em primeiro lugar, a gola de alfaiate em pé, a característica que inicialmente me atraiu neste modelo

As mangas também são fora do vulgar, embora isso não seja aparente numa análise superficial do modelo na revista; os ombros são estreitos e a sua largura reduzida é compensada por uma extensão da cabeça da manga, a qual tem uma costura superior à semelhança de uma manga raglan. No meu entender esta manga é um misto de manga normal com raglan, com um efeito de ombros poderosos muito ao estilo “Balmain”.


Outra característica é a banda da cintura que existe apenas na parte frontal e o fecho com colchetes, um toque minimalista também muito actual.

Decidi usar forro branco ao reparar que este tecido é ligeiramente transparente, deixando antever as entretelas brancas usadas como reforço pelo lado direito. O forro em branco elimina completamente este efeito indesejável.

Detalhe das bandas da cintura no interior do blazer e dos colchetes metidos na costura:


Detalhe do canto de união entre a bainha, o forro e a vista (neste caso painel central inferior na parte de dentro):

O canto da lapela com a gola:

Conclusão: Como referi, a Summerset também está a fazer este modelo e gosto bastante da interpretação dela, mais rica em detalhes e com algumas modificações. Uma das modificações que ela fez foi abater um pouco a curva das mangas para não ficarem tão saídas e estreitar a manga. No meu caso optei pela forma original, mas também poderia ter ajustado um pouco a manga em largura, mesmo deixando a curva em cima, uma vez que tem ainda folga para isso… Tenho que dizer que já tive a experiência contrária com moldes Patrones, mangas demasiado justas, por isso é sempre melhor não confiar e medir o molde se pretenderem um efeito específico.
A propósito, alguém reparou que este molde também se pode adaptar facilmente a uma jaqueta sem gola? Basta retirar as lapelas e a gola e desenhar umas vistas para a zona do decote atrás e ao longo da orla superior da frente… Talvez tente esta interpretação no futuro! Fiquem bem e obrigada por todo o apoio!

Fotos de mim a usar o blazer aqui.

Editado para acrescentar: se quiserem ver fotos dos chumaços que usei, cliquem aqui e desçam até às últimas duas fotos.


Description: Lined blazer with standing notched collar, power shoulders, waist inset on the front and hook&eye closure

When I first saw this model I knew I had to make it because I was looking for a collar design like this for quite some time. I remember that my first thought was to make it in silvery fabric because I had seen a blazer in silver with a standing notched collar and really loved its style. Sometime later the spring collections hit the stores and I became really inspired by color, I start coveting a pink blazer that I saw and, before buying it I decided to see if I could find some pink fabric and make my own pink blazer. I saw this remnant at the fabric store, there was only 1.7 yards left, the exact amount needed for the Patrones blazer.

Pattern used: Patrones magazine n300, model 33 (I traced the intermediate size 42)


Materials: 1.7 yards of synthetic blend fabric, 1.2 yards of lining, fusible interfacing, sewing thread and two hook&eye sets. The fabric was cheap (I bought a small amount of remnant fabrics all in fashionable spring colors at very good price). Besides being no big deal of a fabric, it was quite easy to work with and the end result was great in my opinion.

Related posts on this project:

Outer shell construction (includes additional interfacing)
Inner shell construction and finishing details

Let’s take a look at the details then. First, the standing notched collar, the feature that first attracted me in this model:

The sleeves are also out of the ordinary, though that fact is not immediately apparent from the model pictures/line drawing. The shoulders are narrower than usual and the sleeve caps compensate the shorter length by standing out a little extra. The sleeves also have a upper seam, similar to some raglan sleeve patterns, so in my opinion this sleeve style corresponds to something in between a raglan sleeve and a regular sleeve. The outcome is a somehow “Balmainish” style with power shoulders standing out.


Another feature is the waist insets/bands that exist only on the front of the blazer and the hook&eye closure, a minimalistic touch also very trendy.

I decided on using white lining because I noticed that the white reinforcements were noticeable on the outside if using a pink lining on the inside; with a white lining the fusible blend in completely.

These are the waist insets on the inside and the hooks&eyes sewn to the allowance inside the seam:


This is the lining/hem/facing junction detail (the later also known as lower center front panel):

The notched collar angle:

Final notes: As I already mentioned, Summerset is also making this blazer and I really love her interpretation, richer in details and with some modifications to the original pattern. One of the alterations Summerset did was narrowing the sleeves; I didn’t adjust the sleeve width but I recognize these are wide sleeves, so take that into account if you’re making this blazer. I don’t dislike the sleeves as they are, but narrowing them a little wouldn’t be bad either.
Wrapping it all up, this project ended up exactly as I envisioned it, so I’m very pleased. By the way, do you realize that this pattern could also make a really cute collarless jacket? Just take out the lapels and the collar and add facings around the neckline and upper front edges and voilà! I might try this different approach myself!

Pictures of me wearing the pink blazer are published here.

ETA: If you want to see pictures of the shoulderpads I used, click here (the type I used is pictured on the last couple of pics)

27 comments:

Vicki said...

I love it in pink! Very pretty!

AllisonC said...

I already commented on your other blog but I'm going to say it again - I love your jacket! I hadn't really noticed the shoulder line before either, now I have to attempt this pattern!

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

Tany, this is one of my favorite pieces you have done, I love it, the color, the sleeves, everything. Please send it to me ! OK, I am joking but I now I need a pink jacket for summer. I really admire the technical skill in your recent Burburry coat, and this pink jacket is equally well done. Plus you look great in pink.
Beth

Marie-Noëlle said...

I love the sleeve cap detail.

Barbara said...

Your jacket looks awesome. So fashionable and trendy and made with great craftmanship.
Did you use a special kind of shoulder pads or just regular raglan pads to achieve the exaggerated shoulder line?

Tany said...

Barbara: Thanks! I used tailor raglan shoulder pads (see this post on different types od tailor shoulderpads, the ones I used are shown in the last couple of pictures: http://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com/2008/02/chumaos-de-alfaiate-tailor-shoulder.html)

Bunny said...

Beautiful jacket! This is my favorite shoulder line, extending out to minimize everything below but not 1980s big shoulders at all. I think it gives a very feminine look and the pink just adds to that effect.

gügüyle hersey said...

Your pink blazer is very beautiful,I congratulate you!

Liesl said...

Wow! This is beautifully tailored. I am very impressed. I hope you receive lots of (well-deserved) compliments!

Kathryn, aka fzxdoc said...

Absolutely gorgeous, Tany. Pure pink perfection.

Audrey said...

Beautiful jacket. I marked it as a possible sewing project when I received that issue of Patrones. The collar seemed similar to one in a recent Stella McCartney collection. I love the pink color worn with the army green . So fresh and modern.

MAD14kt said...

Well done!

Alexandra said...

It looks great! From the color to the seaming details - awesome! I really like the hooks and eyes hidden in the seam.

Lizzie said...

That is sensational, I love the colour, it reminds me of Gelati. I like the contrast of the white lining too.

Mamã Martinho said...

Ficou espetacular! É sem dúvida um modelo muito simples, mas muito rico. A escolha do forro foi brilhante.

Bjs

Mónica

Anne e le manine d'oro said...

Impeccable sewing that is for sur. Now I need to see it on you. See you or your other blog ;-)

Barbara said...

Hi Tany,
thanks a lot for answer regarding the shoulder pads.
I look forward to more wonderful creations from you

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

This jacket is gorgeous and I love the pink.

Gail said...

Wasn't this a fabulous issue of Patrones. Love your jacket, and as I don't read Spanish I am hoping that your posts will fill the gap.

Sigrid said...

Beautiful. It's nice to see your version and summersets made at the same time.

Sew on Trend said...

This colour is so pretty. Definitely spices up any outfit.

Nóra said...

Wow, I love it. Your version is much more spectacular than the original one.

Isabelle said...

Cette veste est tout simplement wonderful......trés trés belle. Bonne soirée. Isabelle

Esther Riambau said...

me encanta! super-bien ejecutado

Kaatja said...

Tany, the blazer is simply gogeous. Great work!

MODAVESAİRE said...

wooow
wonderful colour, wonderful shape..

Ana Claudia said...

Nem parece sarja. Ficou lindo!!! parabéns!!! Na realidade não conheço sarja sintética irei procurar!