Monday, May 4, 2009

Calças largas de linho – Linen wide pants

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Modelo Original: Simplicity 2896 D:


Descrição: Modelo de corte largo, com pregas na frente e pinças atrás, carcela com fecho, bolsos aplicados na costura lateral, passadeiras e cinto.

Mais vistas:

Tecido usado: Tecido de linho/viscose cor vermelho coral.

Alterações ao modelo original: Tal como anteriormente constatado pelo Paco (ver artigo aqui), as calças são um pouco curtas; então aumentei 3cm ao comprimento total. Outra questão que o Paco mencionou foi o método de aplicação do fecho que é explicado nas instruções do molde; resolvi então aplicar o meu método habitual e para isso modifiquei o molde da Simplicity para que a vista do trespasse fosse incluída em ambas as peças da frente, em vez de cosida apenas numa das peças (basicamente bastou unir as duas peças descontando os valores de costura na união). Também acrescentei um forro parcial na frente, para minimizar as engelhas (o forro é até aos joelhos e é alinhavado às peças da frente; as duas camadas de tecido são tratadas como uma só na confecção das calças):


Detalhes:

Frente com o cinto em tecido:

A carcela:

O acabamento no interior: as vistas do cós, o trespasse interior e os fundos do bolso foram rematados com fita de viés cortada em forro; as restantes costuras foram rematadas com a corta-e-cose:

Os bolsos na costura lateral:

E já agora, uma foto minha a usar a Torera Stefanel:

Conclusão: Gostei bastante das calças e do seu corte de cintura alta; são o tipo de calças que costumo chamar de “à Marlene Dietrich”, e tenho várias dentro deste estilo (foto retirada da Wikipédia).

São confortáveis, frescas e espero que não engelhem demasiado, embora não haja milagres com o linho! Gosto de ver esta cor vermelho coral de uma forma doseada, ou seja, coordenada com cores/padrões que atenuem um pouco o seu efeito vivo. Espero que tenham gostado!


Original model: Simplicity 2896 D:


Description: Wide style pants have front pleats and back darts, fly-front zipper, in-seam pockets, belt carriers and self-fabric belt.

More views:

Fabric used: Coral red viscose/linen blend.

Alterations to the original model: As Paco stated when he made these pants (read his article here), they are a little short so I added a little more than an inch to the total length. Another issue was the fly-front zipper construction; I decided to follow my usual method and merged the fly (16) with both fronts (18), as per BWOF pant patterns (basically I joined the two pieces cutting off the SAs along the junction). I also added a front partial lining to reduce the wrinkles (it’s a knee length lining that is basted to the fronts; both layers are treated as one from then on):


Details:

The front with the self-fabric belt:

The fly-front zipper:

The finishing inside: the waistband facings, the pocket bags and the underlap were bound by the use of lining bias strips; all the other seams were serged-finished:

The in-seam side pockets:

And by the way, here’s a picture of me wearing the coral red bolero:

Conclusion: I love the end result and this high waist style of pants; these are the kind that I like to call “Marlene Dietrich pants” (Picture from Wikipedia-PT) and I have quite a few in my wardrobe!

They are comfortable, fresh and I hope they won’t wrinkle too much, but then again I don’t expect any miracles from linen! I love this coral red color coordinated with colors/patterns that grade down its natural exuberance. Happy Sewing!

37 comments:

Lori said...

Wonderful pants, Tany. They look great on you, as does the bolero.

Sigrid said...

You're right, very fresh indeed. Love this pair!

Frida said...

I love this type of pants too. Yours look great!

Vicki W said...

They look fabulous!

Erica B. said...

Love the wide leg! They fit great... not slouchy like some versions of these I've seen.

Summerset said...

Love the color and styling. The fit is perfect - wide without being to slouchy. BTW, you know I am doing some coral this summer, too, right? LOL.

Mary Anne said...

Love these pants Tany! love the colour too, and the bolero is beautiful on! Thanks again for sharing all you do!
Mary Anne (Scotland)

Marita said...

Marlene pant's are great! love them too, beautiful construction pix. That bolero really crowns the stripey outfit. You know what? I think you good in every color.

Christina said...

The red is perfect with the black & white striped top. Great summer outfit.

Mamã Martinho said...

As calças firam bem giras! Gosto deste tipo de modelo, apesar de a mim não me favorecerem pois sou baixinha. Fizes-te muito bem em aumentar o tamanho, se não ficaram esquisitas.
O casaco assenta-te muito bem. como suponha é bem diferente de o ver no manequim. Pensava era que as mangas fossem mais curtas, mas são giras assim.

Bjs

Mónica

Anonymous said...

Completely gorgeous! Congrats!

Mary Beth said...

Gorgeous color and results! The sewing process tutorial is quite nicely done, too.

Cennetta said...

Love, love! Great looking pants.

Rachel said...

Those pants look great on you and I love the last outfit. You are so stylish!!!

Adelaide B said...

Perfect for spring and summer. I really like the partial lining idea too.

Claudine said...

Great trousers! They look very summery.

Celina said...

Adoro esse tipo de calças, são intemporais. E adorei a combinação coral/riscas "náuticas": comprei recentemente uma camisola em coral e umas calças azuis escuras e pensei logo num casaco às riscas azuis e brancas verticais que vi numa Patrones para combinar...
A propósito dos moldes Simplicity, comprei há dias um livro da Taschen com anúncios dos anos 70 que traz anúncios da Simplicity, hei-de postar no blogue.
Bjs

Casey said...

Yay for Marlene Dietrich pants! I was thinking of making up this exact pattern specifically for that Marlene/Jean Harlow effect. I really appreciate the heads up on the length. I hate pants that are too short! :)

CreativeBusyHands-Scrapbook Freebies Search said...

Amei! Ficou super bem em voce.

Bunny said...

These are my favorite style of pants to wear. I will definitely be looking into that pattern. They look great!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

A beautiful summery and fresh outfit. It fits perfect :)

Vicki said...

The coral is such a happy colour! Great pants. And very cute shoes too.

KayB said...

Gorgeous colour, gorgeous trousers! I really like waisthigh trousers anyway.... :-)

Sue said...

I love the linen trousers. I made a pair a while ago, knowing that they would wrinkle but it is still off-putting. I will try lining them next time - thanks forthe tip.

Sewmarm said...

Gorgeous, appreciate the Dietrich reference, and I love how your blog switches between languages like magic!

Soph said...

Tany, pants are AWESOME!
Wish my finishing looked anything close to yours! :-)
THANK YOU FOR SHARING!!
Regards
Sophie

~ Kimberlee B ~ said...

Beautiful construction! I have this pattern in my collection and can't wait to make them. You are the perfect size for them. I love the color and you line your pants just like i do, but I'm lazy and I never add a hong kong finish to my pockets but it definitely makes all the difference.

Ana's Closet said...

Eu costumo chamar clássicas a este tipo de calças. São intemporais, e como tal, estão sempre na moda!
São do mesmo tecido que o casaco?
Adorei a forma como resolves-te as transparências das calças, usando um forro parcial. Nunca me tinha passado pela cabeça tal coisa!
Isto só prova que a costura é um processo criativo!

Beijinhos

paco peralta said...

Tany.- como me encantan estos pantalones. creo que son para repetir y usar diferentes tejidos. En tu caso, está genial la combinación de un modelo clásico con el uso de este color tan llamativo. El contraste es de lo más acertado.

besos, Paco

Isabelle said...

Dear Tany, your pants are beautiful. The fit is great! Big hugs.

Rachel said...

Tany,
I left you an award on my blog.

Anonymous said...

Very nice.
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Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Another wonderful garment to add to your amazing wardrobe!!!

CORTEYGRIF said...

Adorei estas calças
tambem è um estilo que gosto de ver com cintos largos.
as tuas modificaçoes ficam sempre perfeitas.
Fica te muito bem.
besitos
ROSA

Ana Carina said...

Adoro patalons!!! Bem frescos para para o Verão.

Gosto da combinação do Vermelho com riscas, acho que fica com um look muito moderno.

mirela said...

Dear Tany,

I love the red pants and the way you used the lining. I have sewn a similar wide leg pant out of a silk suiting fabric, with a pretty loose weave and added lining to the front only. I have a problem with the back center seam, as it seems to fray, or the weave loosens along the seam line. Do you have any clue as to how I can fix? Lining the back would be my thought but I'm not sure how, now that the whole pant is already sewn.

Thank you so much!
Mirela

Tany said...

Mirela - Well, that particular problem never happened to me... I can't think of an easy fix now that the pants are sewn (other than unstitching and stitching again taking in the seam a bit, but you might not have enough ease for that and it woudn't prevent it from fraying again... perhaps adding a stay ribbon along the seam would help).
The best option would have been to underline the back of the pants as the front, but you would have to take the whole back apart for that...