Thursday, January 8, 2009

Jaqueta de tweed laranja: Notas sobre a construção (3) - Orange tweed jacket: construction notes (3)

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Que tal uma espreitadela para verem como está a ficar?

Gosto bastante da forma da gola conjugada com a forma das paletas, acho que se equilibram neste modelo. A gola assenta muito bem e podem ver que pespontei as orlas; para esse efeito usei linha normal na bobine, uma agulha nº100 e fio torçal na agulha, soltando um pouco a tensão da linha da agulha e ajustando o ponto para o máximo comprimento:

É claro que no primeiro botão tenho que parar o pesponto e inverter (em redor da gola até ao 1º botão cose-se de um lado e do 1º botão para baixo cose-se do outro, senão o torçal não ficaria visível na orla da frente (a gola “vira”).

As paletas não têm bolsos, apenas servem de adorno; também são pespontadas com o torçal e nos cantos superiores uns pontos à mão escondidos evitam que elas levantem:

Outro detalhe interessante é as pregas (duas na frente e duas atrás); podem ver nas fotos seguintes como ficam no direito e no avesso:


O facto de serem pregas e não aberturas dificulta a aplicação do forro nesta área; uma hipótese seria fazer pregas idênticas no forro e deixá-lo solto na zona das pregas (para estas poderem “abrir” à vontade), mas ainda estou a pensar na melhor solução. Podem propor soluções, se já se depararam com este problema ou se já viram alguma peça de pronto-a-vestir semelhante, com pregas e forro cosido na bainha.

Falta coser as mangas, aplicar o forro, coser os punhos (a Burda traz um tutorial ilustrado em como coser estes punhos), que irão apanhar as mangas e as mangas em forro ao mesmo tempo e, finalmente fazer as casas de botão (à mão) e coser os botões. Bom, vou por mãos à obra!

What about a sneak peek of the jacket so far?

I really love how the collar shape is complemented by the flaps shape on this jacket; I think the overall look is well balanced. The collar hangs beautifully and you can see the topstitching if you look close enough (though it doesn't show well in the pictures). I used normal thread on the bobbin and buttonhole twist on the needle (a size 16 needle), losing the tension of the needle for half its normal setting and setting the stitch length to its maximum:

It’s obvious that I have to stitch on one side for the collar and lapels (until reaching the first button/buttonhole) and stitch on the other side from there down to the bottom edge of the jacket. The goal is: the buttonhole twist should always be on the visible side.

There are no pockets on the outside of this jacket, the flaps are merely decorative; they are also topstitched and the upper corners have a few invisible hand stitches that keep the flaps facing down:

Another intriguing detail is the pleats (two on the front and two on the back); you can observe how they look from the right side and the wrong side:


The fact that they are pleats and not vents creates a problem when stitching down the lining on this area; either I make identical pleats on the lining and let it free hanging around the pleat area or I come up with other intricate solution. I’ll give it some more thought and then we’ll see (feel free to come up with suggestions if you like).

I still have to set in the sleeves, sew the lining in place, set the cuffs (I left the cuff construction for last because they will be stitched to both the sleeves and sleeve lining together) – btw, this BWOF issue features a mini-workshop on how to sew several types of cuffs, look it up – and finally there’s the buttonholes (I plan on hand sewing them) and the buttons… Well, I should get started now! See you later!

17 comments:

b. said...

Hi Tany,

the jacket looks great so far! And hooray for handsewing the buttonholes - I haven't been able to bring up the courage to do so yet.

Lori said...

The jacket is marvelous so far. Good luck with the buttonholes.

Frida said...

This is going to be so good!
The shape of the collar and flaps really make the jacket special. Can't wait to see what the arms will look like.

Mamã Martinho said...

Está a ficar o máximo!
Bem, eu não sou especialista em costura, mas para o forro só me ocorre que lhe faças tb umas pregas.

Bjs

Mónica

paco peralta said...

Tany, sienta fantático este escote. No se me ocurre nada en especial para poder forrar los pliegues. Simplemente, ir rematando el forro a mano en cada uno de los pliegues o dejar el forro suelto. Espero que tu tengas una buena solución., ya nos tendrás informados.

Abrazos, Paco

Dei said...

Tany, fabulous as usual. The color is so rich and I love that.

Do you always use regular thread in the bobbin when you top-stitch. I have used top-stitch thread on the spool and the bobbin when I did a dress last year and it was so difficult to work with on my Viking. I am wondering if that may be the problem. I will try loosening the tension as well.

Can't wait to see the finished jacket!

Ana's Closet said...

concordo contigo Tany! A ligação da gola com as paletas é um encanto. Mas a parte mais gira são os bolsos!
Quanto às pregas, porque não usares aquela folga que às vezes deixas em cima, nos forros dos casacos? Só não sei se resulta..

Beijinhos

Vicki said...

Burda's photos often do not show the garment to its best advantage. Burda's photo looks very unattractive to me. Yet your jacket is looking lovely. Interesting collar and pleats. And beautiful work of course :) Looking forward to seeing the sleeves and cuffs made up too.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Tany, I am truly loving the look of your jacket. It will look fantastic finished!

Sheila said...

I really like the way the jacket is coming along and learned somthing new again, that one can handstitch buttonholes.

Summerset said...

This fabric is more beautiful every time I see it! Keep going - the finished jacket will be amazin.

Dana said...

I'm starting to think I might actually have the patience to attempt some of your fine tailoring techniques. You make it look so simple!

I recently made a jacket with many pleats at the bottom and had the same issue with the lining. I ended up just following the directions (end the lining at the waist and clean finish the pleats seams). If I did it again I'd probably try what you suggested by extending the lining and letting it hang free at the hem.

CreativeBusyHands-Scrapbook Freebies Search said...

Como usual, o seu trabalho e' tao bonito. Todas as vezes que venho no seu blog, me da vontade de ir costurar. Muito obrigada por partilhar o seu trabalho, e a execucao do mesmo. -luiza

Karen said...

I love the collar/pocket flap shaping - it adds much to a jacket that already had a lot going for it. And I'm loving your whole orange collection. I have a soft spot for the color and not many people use it, so this is particularly striking to me.

And beautiful work, as always.

Audrey said...

You are making great progress. Orange colored wool always brings back memories of a favorite school outfit that had an orange plaid pleated skirt. The orange tweed is lovely. Thanks for theinfo. on the different interfacings and where you used them, in the earlier post. On tailored jackets, deciding where to interface and with what kind, is always a difficult decision for me.

Cennetta said...

Beautifully crafted. Show me more.

CORTEYGRIF said...

Neste tipo de efeito pregas,ja me aconteceu,mas deixei a folga das pregas solta para abrir,consoante o movimento!
o acabamento que lhe deste ficou perfeito,como sempre!
ROSA