Sunday, September 21, 2008

Patrones n264 mod #48: Chaqueta Escorpión

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Aqui está, acabadinha de fresco! Depois de uma semana em que só pude aproveitar menos de uma hora por dia para costurar, reservei o domingo para terminar esta jaqueta e aqui está o resultado final.

Modelo original:

Porque o meu tempo esteve muito limitado, não tirei muitas fotos da construção. Apenas vou aqui evidenciar o detalhe da construção da gola, que neste caso é cosida ao casaco depois do forro estar aplicado. Nas fotos seguintes podem ver a orla do decote preparada (tem um pesponto junto à linha de costura, para reforçar, e depois poder golpear) para ser cosida à parte de dentro da gola:


E aqui a gola pronta a aplicar:

Depois de coser a parte de dentro do pé da gola ao casaco, a parte de fora é cosida à mão depois de virar as margens de costura para dentro:

Deixo-vos com alguns detalhes, dentro e fora da jaqueta:



Os bolsos:


O forro:



Conclusão: Estou satisfeita com o resultado final, que tem alguns aspectos muito originais, como os botões de diferentes tamanhos e a gola (repararam no feitio atrás?). Acrescentei algumas coisas, como chumaços de alfaiate e cabeças de manga e a construção da gola também não foi de acordo com as instruções.

Pois é, e Ainda falta fazer os corsários… E tempo para tudo? Esta semana recebi vários prémios que tenho de agradecer, não consegui escrever nada no blog e muito menos ler a minha lista de blogs… Está bastante complicado e espero que compreendam… Hoje não podia deixar de vos mostrar a jaqueta, mas amanhã começa o stress no trabalho.

Fiquem bem e obrigada pela vossa visita!


Here it is, finished just an hour ago! After another week in which my sewing time was reduced to less than an hour a day, I took the Sunday off to finish this jacket and here’s the final outcome.

Original Model:

Since I had so little time to sew I didn’t document much of the construction process. The only step that I’m sharing is the application of the collar to the jacket because in this case it’s applied after the lining was stitched to the body of the jacket. In the following pictures you can see the neckline all set up (stay stitched and clipped) before joining it to the inner collar stand


And here’s the collar:

After stitching the inner collar stand to the body of the jacket (all together with the lining), the SAs are graded, turned in and the outer collar stand is stitched by hand:

Here are some details of the finished jacket:



The pockets:


The lining:



Conclusion: I am very satisfied with the outcome of this jacket, which comprises some very original details like all the different sized buttons and the shape of the collar (did you notice the back?). I also added tailor shoulder pads and sleeve heads and applied the collar differently from what was described in the instructions.

And I still have the pants to make… Where will I find the time? During the past week I received several awards that have to be acknowledged and passed on and I had no time at all to catch up on my blog reading. Things are pretty rough and I hope you all understand. Today I couldn’t go without showing you the finished jacket, but tomorrow all the stress at work will be filling my time again.

Happy sewing to all and thank you for visiting!

63 comments:

toy said...

nice jacket Tany, when I saw the first photo I thought,, haven't I seen this somewhere before then I realized it was in that Patrones you sent me,, lol
you are so good at getting all those details down just right, what is the true color of this jacket, the material and what did you use to line it with?

Tany said...

Thanks Toya,
The true color of the jacket is ivory and the fabric is cotton/lycra (kind of stretch satin, medium weight). I used regular lightweight lining fabric to line it (i'm not sure of its composition, I always forget to ask at the fabric store)

Els said...

Beautiful made as usual.

Shannon said...

That jacket is exquisite! I imagine it looks phenomenal on you too!

anita said...

Beautiful jacket, Tany! Love that uniquely shaped collar.

Ana'scloset said...

Uau! Ficou um espectáculo! Adorei a gola e a parte dos ombros, está mesmo original! Parabéns!

Beijinhos

Vicki W said...

Beautiful Tany! glad you found some sewing time. It will keep you sane.

Sue said...

Lovely jacket - the details are divine! I hope work eases up soon. Being busy is Ok but nobody needs stress!

cidell said...

How much am I loving all the details? The back button and the collar tab are marvelous! GREAT jacket!

Erica B. said...

Beautiful Tany! This jacket has so many great details and I'm sure that was the draw. I love the tabs at the collar and the button on the back!

CORTEYGRIF said...

Lindissimo Tany
o detalhe da gola è bem original e ficou todo uma perfeiçao,como sempre uma confecçao artistica parabens amiga!
Vè la que eu ia te perguntar se sabias fazer aquele ponto,è fantastico o quimono.
Continuas atarefada, mas fiel às tuas costuras sempre com muito exito.
boa semana
bjs
Rosa

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

I'm so happy you found time to sew! I love this jacket Tany. Even in your busy times you produce such detailed, beautiful & stylish garments, just awesome :)
Hope your week is not too stressful :)

Amanda S. said...

WOW! This is just beautiful. Your craftsmanship is truly amazing. I'm sure this will be a staple in your closet for years to come. Can't wait to see the pants... :)

Laila said...

Ma-ra-vi-lho-so...
Obrigada por compartilhar conosco suas habilidades.
Bjs.

Lisa Laree said...

Beautiful!!! An hour a day...inspiring!

Lori said...

Incredible jacket, you made great use of your time.

Adrienne said...

Very beautiful Tany!

senaSews said...

Hi Tany! This is an absolutely beatiful jacket. I Love IT!

Alexandra said...

Beautiful jacket! Love the cool details; the collar shape is interesting, with the pointed and buttoned back. One of those things that sets your creations apart.

Caity said...

Wow - what a beautiful jacket! Love the details and of course as always, your beautiful execution. Well done!

KayB said...

What a great trench jacket. The details really make it - as well as your impeccable craftsmanship. It's beautiful, Tany!

Cafe Couture said...

Tany, beautiful work, as usual. I would like to post a link to your tutorial (if you don't mind of course)on sewing that type of collar. I am obsessed with the collar sewing technique and as I intend to make a shirt this is welcome.

Katrin said...

A great jacket, I like the colour.
I am amazed what you creat in such little time. I know how it is since I am struggling with my current project for almost 6 weeks now...
Take care of yourself!
Best wishes,
Katrin

Nina said...

Very well done Tany! It´s timeless and stylish.

Have a great week,
Nina

Gry said...

Beautiful work, Tany. I am impressed that you can find the concentration to work on something as detailed as this when you only can work short time every day.

Mamã Martinho said...

Ficou um espanto! Um optimo projecto para esta nova estação. Tens de arranjar tempo para fazer os corsários.

Bjs

Mónica

LauraLo said...

Gorgeous and as usual, so exquisitely made! I bet you look smashing in it!
Hugs, my dear friend!

Lisette M said...

So very beautiful, all the details are fantastic. Precioso, que lo disfrutes.

Ana Carina said...

Pois é...
...as tuas semanas andam tão atarefadas...e a "comunidade da costura" anda muito calminha sem as tuas novidades. Acredita!

Esta jaqueta está LINDA!!! Eu adoro casacos deste estilo. Gostei do pormenor da gola atrás...muito original!

Que tecido utilizaste? É muito bonito, nas fotos parece ser acetinado.

Vai fazer um lindo conjunto! Eu adoro!!!


Beijinhos e bom trabalho

Lindsay T said...

I love the fabric and all the special details. Stunning!

Andrea said...

I just started sewing but when I see your FO's I am overwhelmed - you are a sewing witch ;-) Chapeau!

Celina said...

LINDO!! Adoro a cor e os pormenores de confecção, gola, bolsos, ombros...
Foi muito interessante ver a construção da gola, eu estou a fazer uma capa da Patrones com gola - é a primeira vez que faço uma gola - e foi engraçado ver que ela pode ser aplicada depois do forro e cosida à mão, como fizeste. Eu apliquei antes do forro e acabei por cosê-la à máquina mas apercebi-me que podia fazer de outras maneiras... Há várias maneiras de fazer as coisas, não é?
Mais uma vez, a minha admiração por, mesmo numa semana atarefada, conseguires arranjar tempo para fazer uma peça desta envergadura!
Beijinhos

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

The jacket is simply stunning and full of those marvelous details that you do so well!

Claudine said...

I love the jacket. With all the detail, it's a great garment to show off your sewing skills.

Summerset said...

Gorgeous. I knew that was one of the things on your list to make, it is nice to see it finished. There is a lot of wonderful details - I love the different shapes of the collar and tabs.

Adriana B. said...

Beatiful, Tany! I once made a trench and I know from expeience how much work it involves.

Audrey said...

Tany querida amei sua jaqueta, eu gosto muito de peças que amarram na cintura e a sua está perfeita adorei os detalhes foi trabalhosa mas valeu a pena.
Beijos,
Audrey

Sylvie said...

Wow... what a great jacket!

I wish you... a little bit more time for yourself.

Greetings from Germany
Sylvie

Christina said...

I'm glad you were able to make the time to finish this jacket - it's gorgeous and you will look so chic in this. I like the button on the back collar.

paco peralta said...

Tany.- me alegro que hayas podido terminar este proyecto. Todavía tendrás un tiempo para lucirlo. Me encanta el patrón del cuello y sus particularidades. Fabuloso. Abrazos, Paco

Miss Sewing said...

Hola Tany,
el resultado final de la gabardina es espectacular. Me gusta mucho el color, lo veo muy alegre, y además combina con todo.

Feliz semana.

Ana

AllisonC said...

Beautiful details that I hardly noticed in the magazine (love that back collar!). It's amazing you made this in such little time, fantastic quality work as always.

Isabelle said...

Dearest friend...
Your jacket is absolutely stunning. This has to be one of the most perfect jackets ever!

I am sorry you have had so little time to yourself... and I do hope that things are OK with you. You are in my daily thoughts! Gros bisous, ma belle.

Anne e le manine d'oro said...

Magnifique, génial, un pur bijou cette veste ! Bravo !

Sismada said...

Lindissimo! Simplesmente!
um beijo

Marty's Little Corner said...

Absolutely beautiful, Tany. The details are exquisite. Even with only an hour or less each day, you manage to create stunning garments. I envy your patience and I believe you are a true courtier.

Sew Passionista said...

Your work is superb. I love your coat. Coats are my favorite things to sew.I will return to your blog to look again and again.Bravo!
Diana from Canada

Dei said...

This jacket is amazing! The detailing is wonderful and I love your stretch satin. I will have to carve out sewing time as you have.

peacockchic said...

As always Tany, the jacket looks WONDERFUL!!! The best part is I actually HAVE this issue of Patrones! It was a miracle find on patternreview, so now I am the proud owner of a patrones magazine..yay. Now I just have to learn my Patrones level spanish and i will be able to make this jacket just like you.

Wonderful wonderful job!

Josie said...

What a lovely jacket. As always your craftsmanship is of the highest standard. LOVE all the details. You really motivate me to try harder.

Tina said...

olá!
Passei só para desejar uma optima semana e dizer que ontem fui dar uma volta para os teus lados e o transito é uma confusao!!!! uma boa desculpa para ficares em casa a fazer as tuas fantasticas costuras!!
beijinhos

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas pelos fantásticos comentários!

Gracias a todos por los comentários!

Thank you all for the very nice comments!

I'd like to welcome all the new commenters to Couture et Tricot! Thank you all for visiting and taking the time for leaving a comment!

Lucia (Cafe Couture): Thank you my friend and of course I don't mind you lonking to this or any other article!

Linda said...

Great workmanship as always. Truly impressive. Thank you for always sharing what you are working on and your process!

~ Kimberlee B ~ said...

I can see all the work and time you put into this and I also see the finished product was definitely worth it. Awesome!

mirela said...

I have a prize for you, see my blog.

Ana'scloset said...

Oi Tany! Só para avisar que tens dois prémios no meu blog!

Beijinhos

Sew4Fun said...

Beautiful jacket Tany in both the way it looks and how it is constructed. I love all the little details plus the fabric you chose. Well done!

Andrea said...

I took the liberty to award you a prize - go and grab it :-)

Lory said...

I love it! Your attention to detail is exquisite.

Hugs,
Lory

Paulandre said...

Ficou linda a jaqueta e os detalhes dos botões em diferentes tamanhos realmente ficou uma graça! =)

Maja said...

Gorgeous and what exquisite details! Another work of art! Simply stunning!

Cennetta said...

Simply Outstanding!

Bianca de Neve said...

Olá Tany,

Muitos muitos parabéns pela determinação. Eu bem sei o que é preciso para começar uma peça de roupa e o orgulho de a exibir por ser handmade!!

Eu ando numa busca desesperada por conseguir uma cópia da revista Patrones 264, janeiro 2008 (de onde os moldes para este casaco vieram). Quando mudei de casa, perdi-a e o pior é que tenho imensos projectos por acabar dessa revista. Estou completamente frenética à procura de uma solução (parece que só queremos o que não temos =S)
Como eu sou de Lisboa, achas que seria possível deixares-me fazer cópia da revista e dos moldes e devolvo-a na mesma semana?

Muito obrigada! (espero que me possas ajudar que já não tenho mais opções =/ )
Bianca