Costura 2007 #3: Burda 02/2007 Gabardina 103 - 2007 Sewing #3: BWOF 02/2007 Trenchcoat 103

Aqui está, sem mais demora, a gabardina pronta:
Here it is, with no further delay, the finished trenchcoat:


Model description and notions (according to the magazine)

Material usado
Notions


Este modelo não é forrado no original; parte do desafio foi arranjar uma forma de o forrar. Optei por uma técnica de sub-forrar e usei tecido de forro cor da pele pois o tecido marfim que escolhi é um pouco transparente. De forma ao acabamento no interior ser o mais perfeito possível, fiz vários testes de forma a determinar o tipo de costura mais indicado para este modelo:
The original model is not intended to be lined; part of the challenge was finding a way to line this garment. Instead of lining the garment I underlined it with skin colored lining because the ivory fabric is a little show-through. To make the inside finishing as neat as possible I performed several tests to determine the best seam finish for this project:

Testes com costuras – Testing seams
Costuras: mais testes –
Seams: more tests

Sub-forrar a gabardina – Underlining the trenchcoat

As costas (inclui tutorial das costuras) – The back (includes taped seam tutorial)

Nas próximas fotos podem ver o acabamento final no interior da gabardina:
In the next pictures you can see the finishing inside the trenchcoat:

Aqui têm várias vistas no manequim:
Here are several views on the dressform:
Como fazer os bolsos – Pocket tutorial

Outra parte do desafio foi a saia franzida:
Another part of the challenge was sewing the gathered skirt:

A saia franzida (inclui instruções para fazer a bainha)
The gathered skirt (includes hemming how-to)


A determinada altura, deparou-se-me um problema: ao usar a gabardina como um vestido com os primeiros botões desabotoados, parte do forro seria visível nos cantos; para impedir que isto acontecesse, resolvi coser um encaixe de tecido ao forro, por dentro:
When I was sewing this trench coat I noticed that if I wore the first buttons unbuttoned the lining would be visible at the collar corner; to avoid this I made a little fabric inset sewn to the lining inside:

Encaixe de tecido e acabamento das mangas
Fabric inset and finishing the sleeves:

Nas próximas fotos podem ver o encaixe de tecido e o decote depois de pronto:
Next pictures will show you the little fabric inset and the collar detail on the finished trenchcoat:


Os botões são cosidos usando um palito e um botão chato e transparente no interior para reforço. O palito serve para fazer um pé de botão (dar alguma altura ao botão) e o botão no interior é cosido ao mesmo tempo que o botão exterior. Depois de coser os botões tira-se o palito e dá-se várias voltas com o fio duplo em redor do botão de fora, dá-se um nó e passa-se para o botão de dentro, onde se remata o fio com outro nó (os nós ficam escondidos debaixo dos botões).
For sewing the buttons in place I used a tooth pick and an inside flat button for reinforcement. The tooth pick is used to build a shank between the fabric and the button; the inside button is stitched at the same time as the outside button is. After stitching the two buttons together, I remove the tooth pick and make several turns around the button with the thread (I use double thread) on the right side. I make a knot around the shank and I pass the needle to the inside, finishing with a knot around the flat button too.




Auto-crítica – Critique

Há algumas coisas que faria melhor se voltasse a costurar esta gabardina: usaria agulhas Microtex para tecidos com tecedura densa (só consegui estas agulhas quando a gabardina estava praticamente acabada) e fio Alterfil, faria os pespontos decorativos com tamanho do ponto 3 ou 3.5 (a minha máquina tem-me dado alguns problemas ao coser pontos com tamanho superior a 2.5) e, finalmente, coseria as mangas de outra forma. A forma correcta de coser mangas com uma costura superior é coser primeiro as partes da manga às respectivas partes do corpo e depois coser os ombros e a costura superior da manga como uma só, as costuras laterais e a costura inferior da manga da mesma forma. Tirando estes pormenores, fiquei bastante satisfeita com o resultado final.
There are a few things I would do better if I was to make this trenchcoat again: I would use Microtex needles (at the time I finally got these needles the trenchcoat was almost finished) and ALterfil thread, I would use a 3 to 3.5 stitch length for the topstitching (my machine was giving me trouble when stitching length was above 2.5) and last but not least I would sew the sleeves differently; the correct way to sew sleeves when an upper seam is involved is to sew the sleeve parts to the body first and only then sew the shoulder seam together with the upper sleeve seam, the same for the side seams and inner sleeve seams. This would prevent me from doing those handstitches at the shoulders inside. Other than this I'm quite pleased with the final result!

Finalmente, têm aqui o detalhe da carteira e dos sapatos que usei com a gabardina no meu Aniversário (ambos foram prendas de Aniversário):
For last, here you have the bag and the shoes (both were Birthday gifts) that completed my outfit! I wore the trenchcoat on my Birthday and got lots of compliments!

Ainda falta fazer o cinto elástico e decidir se ponho uma fivela no conto que vêm nas fotos; primeiro tenho que tentar encontrar ilhóses que diquem bem neste cinto!
I still have to finish the elastic belt and decide if I will add a buckle to the belt you see in the pictures; first I have to find the matching grommets for the belt!

Espero que tenham gostado! Aproveito para agradecer todos os comentários e votos de Feliz Aniversário no meu post anterior! Sabe bem estar de volta!
I hope you enjoyed this! I also would like to thank all the nice comments and the Happy Birthday wishes on my last post! It feels good to be back! (Jules, I answered to your question on the comment area of my last post!)

36 comments:

Adrienne said...

The detail is AMAZING! It looks stunning on you!!! Great job girl!!!

ifthisistuesday.wordpress.com said...

You finished--it looks wonderful!! I love it as a dress. And the bag and the shoes: fabulous!

I didn't realize it was your birthday last week, so Happy Birthday (a bit late--sorry!)

Anonymous said...

WOW!!!

renee said...

I am ONE HUNDRED percent in love with this. Ohmigosh. Wow. And girl, I would hurt someone for those fabulous shoes. Lucky (and talented) birthday girl.

Erica Bunker said...

That is gorgeous! It looks like expensive designer rtw!

Christina said...

Thank you, this has been so informative and inspirational. Your trenchcoat looks amazing, and those shoes are *hot*!

Anonymous said...

It's just beautiful Tany! Very well done! I like your attention to detail -- the inside is just as beautiful as the outside!

Anonymous said...

All I can say is "WOW!" Beautiful and great details.

Anonymous said...

Great sewing Tany. I love your idea of the fabric insert at the front collar. It's one of those, "why didn't I think of that?" ideas. I hope you don't mind if I steal it. :)

Vicki said...

Wow, you (and the trench)- look fabulous!!! You must be very happy. Thanks for sharing the process. And the shoes and bag - gorgeous, and they would look fab with the Orwell coat too!

Lori said...

Tany, I have been following your progress on this project and learning so much. Your finished product is incredible and you shoes and bag are perfect.

Anonymous said...

Just beautiful...wow!!!!!!!!!!!!

Crystal said...

Wow! That is just gorgeous! You look so chic and sophisticated!

Frau Vau said...

no wonder you got compliments - this is a wonderful piece and really shows you're a more than skilled seamstress!

KayB said...

Wow, wow, wow... I'm speechless!
... and I loooove the shoes!
Tany, the outfit is simply gorgeous! What an inspiration!

Anonymous said...

Bem!!!!! Ficou bem melhor do que imaginava! Nunca deixas de me surpreender!
Adorei os acessórios, ficaram muito bem! Tb não conhecia a forma de coser o botão, é sempre util essas dicas.

Bjs

Mónica

Unknown said...

Ficou mesmo muito lindo o teu trabalho!! E o conjunto ficou espetacular! E Parabens pelo teu aniversario!!!! Mesmo que atrasados!!

filomena said...

Ficou liiinda!

Gosto mais da tua do que da original. A foto da revista não me convenceu, mas a tua sim!

Por acaso já usei essa técnica de coser os botões numa peça de tricot. Como era uma malha muito aberta tive que acrescentar também uma fita no interior da banda dos botões para ter algo firme onde coser.

Já agora, em tricot a regra é usar para dar altura ao botão a mesma agulha com que se tricotou - por vezes o palito é pouco.

jinhos

dawn said...

Oh, Tany, it's absolutely gorgeous! Inside and out! I can't imagine what it would cost to buy something like that. You've done a wonderful job.

And those shoes....wooo....

Cloé said...

Passeando pela net vi estas coisas lindas!Ficou maravilhoso este trabalho.Parabéns!Abraços.

Anonymous said...

Oh my, it's a work of art! How beautiful! The hard work you put into this garment really paid off. I've been taking notes on your techniques--there are so many good tips you provide, and thank you for taking time to document them on your blog!

Anonymous said...

I think the outfit looks great on you and the detail in your sewing is absolutely amazing!!! And the label you put inside made me smile ;)

Celina said...

Lindíssima! Trabalho de profissional, aspecto de alta costura ou de peça de loja sofisticada. Aliás, nas lojas não se encontra material deste... Tens um fabuloso bom gosto com o qual eu me identifico absolutamente: aqueles sapatos são liiindoss e o conjunto com a mala fica soberbo. Sim senhora, a arrasar em Aveiro e onde quer que vás...
E já agora, os parabéns atrasados (não me apercebi que tinhas feito anos...)

Beijinhos

Anonymous said...

Esta gabardina está um espectáculo! E os acabamentos, e os acessórios são pefeitos? Quem precisa de roupa de marca com tanto talento?
Agora, fico curiosa para ver que criação tua se seguirá!

Summerset said...

Fantastic! The shoes are really incredible - with the purse the outfit is very fresh and modern!

PS - I thought I left a comment yesterday, but can't find it. So, if there's two from me - just face it - your trench coat is that wonderful!

Kitty Couture said...

It is amazing, Tany. Such a beautiful haute couture job you did. I love your shoes, too.
Thank you for your heartfelt comments, Tany, we haven't known for long but I can sense they are from the heart. Thank you and (((hugs))) to you. ♥

Katrin said...

Hello Tany,

I am reading your blog for quite a while now and I am so impressed by your work and your detailed instructions. This is so wonderful !
You are looking gorgeous in the trench and the shoes and the handbag are the creamy topping :).

Regards,
Katrin

DÍÈKÓ Lagos said...

happy birthday T, Hope you had a wonderful time. The trench coat/dress was really well tailored, you are such a patient and meticulous sewer, wish i could be like that. But you are a tough act to follow. But i love the coat. mmmuuuaa XX

May said...

Tany, you look fabulous!! I enjoyed following your sewing process very much. I love your approach to sewing: very thorough and patient. Have you recieved VK?

Abi said...

An exceptional looking garment.Thanks again for the details/in progress notes and pictures.
Well done.

Laura said...

Mais uma vez, deixaste-me boquiaberta com a qualidade dos teus trabalhos! A gabardina fica-te muito bem =)

Já agora, eu pretendo comprar uma máquina de costura nova assim que arranjar emprego e aproveito para te perguntar se tens alguma recomendação, em termos da marca, modelos ou características que uma boa máquina de costura deve ter, é que já vi algumas no site da worten e da singer mas continuo à nora...

Tany said...

Laura: Vou responder à tua questão com detalhe num post que publicarei amanhã ou depois pois também ando à procura de uma nova máquina! Beijinhos e muito obrigada pelo teu comentário!

Tini said...

Tany,
I just came back after nearly 2 weeks without internet, so first happy very belated b-day. I hope you had a great time.
I have to admit, that I was pretty sceptical about the ruffled pattern at first but it suits you soooo well! Great job on all the details. No wonder you got so many compliments! You deserve them!

Linda L said...

WOW! Muy Caliente!!!!!
Tany, what a great looking outfit. Your work is so inspiring and I am always delighted to read about what you are working on and seeing the completed projected.

You look stunning.

I love, love, love, love your shoes by the way. I love shoes and I believe a girl can never have too many!

Sismada said...

Ola,

no sabado passei pela zara, lá etava uma gabardina igualzinha a essa ( ao quase :) ) Muito linda mesmo e in!!!

Tany said...

Sismada: Eheheh, agora a Zara anda a imitar-me, lol, tenho que ir lá ver!!